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Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Mon 04 Mar, 2013 8:46 pm
by Strider
Well my tub of Snoseal has finally run out, and I'm thinking of making the switch to Nikwax. However, can I Nikwax a pair of boots that have had a couple of years worth of Snoseal rubbed into them?

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 1:47 pm
by Moondog55
That's a good question, I hope you get a definitive answer as my big tub of Snowseal is almost empty as well

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 2:33 pm
by Rob A
Used Nikwax (tub I notice they dont disclose ingredients, and bottle) Dubbin and beeswax (maybe snowseal) interchangeably.
Dont think it matters much. Sure dubbins a bit different.
Dont use on suede? Yea right. After a few salt waters, anything is a better option than nothing.
If Im out for more than a day or two I take the tub with me and use it regularly.
Not sure how you get more than six months out of a pair of regularly used boots though. But the leather is the last thing to go.

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 4:18 pm
by Strider
Rob A wrote:Sure dubbins a bit different.

And has a reputation for rotting stitching...

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 4:54 pm
by corvus
I have used both over the years Nikwax in Summer and the Snoseal in winter with no problems,would never use Dubbin .
corvus

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 5:00 pm
by Moondog55
Rob A wrote:\
Not sure how you get more than six months out of a pair of regularly used boots though. But the leather is the last thing to go.

What? If I don't get at least 10 years out of my boots I feel robbed, but I do have separate winter, cusp and summer boots, don't wear the summer boots much

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 5:05 pm
by Stibb
How about using gel after Nikwax?

I cannot for my life get my boots waterproof (>30min) and I was told in a shop to try gel instead. Yes, I know how to apply the wax properly.
Any comments on gel?

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 5:15 pm
by Strider
In what environment are you using them Stibb? I find when used in snow they wet out no matter what after about that time also.

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 5:41 pm
by Rob A
Strider wrote:
Rob A wrote:Sure dubbins a bit different.

And has a reputation for rotting stitching...


Yea its a gem that one isnt it. Where this internet drivel starts is beyond me.

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 6:16 pm
by Stibb
Strider wrote:In what environment are you using them Stibb?


Tasmania... :D
Wet snow...yeah I give them 10-15min tops
Rain, snow, puddles, sleet, creeks, wet grass...anything wet and sooner rather than later they wet out completely.

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 7:30 pm
by corvus
Rob A wrote:
Strider wrote:
Rob A wrote:Sure dubbins a bit different.

And has a reputation for rotting stitching...


Yea its a gem that one isnt it. Where this internet drivel starts is beyond me.


This article may be of interest and made me think :) as I had heard/read about Dubbin long b4 we had access to the internet.

"It is sometimes said that DUBBIN rots stitching on leather articles. When applying DUBBIN you must simply make sure that you do not leave chunks of Dubbin in folds or seams of the leather - this will collect dust, trapped by the thick DUBBIN and the dust will then rot the stitching. I always polish a project that I have just applied DUBBIN to, with a soft brush - there seems to be some beeswax in DUBBIN that will cause the leather to have a natural shine when treated like this"
corvus

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 7:43 pm
by Rob A
What about chunks of beeswax and chunks of Nikwax? Are you saying they do not do precisely the same thing? Come to that what about stuff forced into seams when walking through bogs independent of any kind of sealing? Part of that quote comes from one of the dubbin blurbs on correct application. It gets lifted for all sorts. What sort of thread is the dirt supposed to rot? Hemp? Cotton? Modern poly? Kevlar? Honestly, its a nonsense. Maybe some badly stitched product hangs its hat on that old excuse, but in twenty odd dead pairs of boots Ive yet to see the stitching go, other than get worn through.

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 7:53 pm
by Strider
Agreed Rob - it may just be that Dubbin was the most popular product in use when the issues began to occur.

It also sounds like its more a mechanical weakening of the stitching rather than a rot.

Apologies for perpetuating the rumour, but it's prompted some good discussion :)

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Tue 05 Mar, 2013 9:12 pm
by corvus
Snip[quote="Rob A" but in twenty odd dead pairs of boots Ive yet to see the stitching go, other than get worn through.[/quote]

Wowsers are you talking about walking Boots or work Boots twenty odd pair of good walking boots at upwards to around $400.00 a pair :shock:
Must add the leather gave out b4 the stitching on all of my old boots.
corvus

Re: Switching from Snoseal to Nikwax

PostPosted: Fri 29 Mar, 2013 1:40 pm
by north-north-west
Never had either stitching or leather go on boots, it's always the soles that wear out first - and I've used everything from Dubbin and el cheapo vegetable oil to Snoseal & Nikwax to treat them.
Pity you can't get the jars or Nikwax anymore. It's all those silly sponge applicator bottles now. Not as good IMO, which is why I mainly stick with Snoseal these days.