Completed The Overland

[abmacus]

I completed the Overland Track on 22nd December with my son. 6 days 5 nights. It was an experience.
We had perfect weather, only rained one day and one night. I am still trying to convince myself that it is truly one of the worlds Great Walks.
There were quite a few highlights, but maybe after having done the Milford (last week of the walking season), Routebourne (out of the walking season) and Kepler Tracks (out of the walking season) earlier this year, my objectivity is maybe somewhat clouded or expectations too high.
The 2 big huts are pretty awesome and that must be where the track fees goes towards.
The tent platforms at Kia Ora are excellent.
I thought that it was expensive. And was slightly annoyed when there were a couple, well quite a few people who joined the track at New Pelion and were quite open about the fact that they walked in from "The Walls" or some car park and didnt have to pay the track fee. Some guy had evidently just left New Pelion after spending about 6 days there.
I was surprised with the lack of tent platforms at some huts. There were none available at New Pelion when we arrived and very few suitable spaces off the plaforms. Fortunatley there was space inside, which strangley enough we didnt want to do. There was no tents spots available at Bert Nicholls, except the sites on the left way out from the hut, which would have meant another days hike to the toilets, ( I am still trying to get the smell of those out of my nasal hair)
Narcissus hut is obviously pretty much a place where the Parks guys dont want you to stay . There was enough space for about 4 tents, which there was the night we stayed there, 3 other groups came in later and ended up pitching tents near the jetty. Which was a fantastic spot but we thought the signs around there were indicating the area was under regeneration.
The Ferry, well!, I read the post re Stranded at Scotts Hut and the associated comments, especially about the lake St Clair ferry breaking down. The fee they charge, surely they could have a brand new boat as a spare!. While we were at Narcissus, the ferry had already taken 2 loads of 22, he took another full boat in the afternoon and ours in the morning was full. Now $40 per person for a 15 minute boat ride, hmmmm. I paid $30 for the MONA Ferry and got an excellent commentary and great service. Then at the end we were herded up to the restaraunt like sheep, my son commented on this and felt like a little school boy, hes 21. Is there really a dangerous snake on the path that keeps biting people? Or is the biggest danger being ripped off by the cafe/restraunt. Holy moses $8.00 for about 2 dozen chips. Are they just concerned that walkers stomachs are shrivelled due to eating dehy and they think they are doing the right thing?
The scenery was amazing the waterfalls great, the view from the top of Cradle Mountain a treat, but for some reason it just hasnt taken my breath away like I thought it would. Earlier this year I walked 7 days of the Bib Track with a couple of mates, even having to share a hut with 14 others at Long Point on a rainy night and when we finished I thought "that was amazing" I didnt get that this time.
Maybe as my blisters heal and my back recovers I will reflect on this as a really positive experience. We will see.
I also would like to that the guys that run this site. I have spent ages on here prior to the walk getting info. You guys do an amazing job and the others who contribute such as covus, Frenchy are obviously a source of valuable info which I found so useful. Keep it up.
Cheers

Abmacus

[Son of a Beach]

Thanks for your thoughts on the OT and on the facilities on the track as well as at either end - it's an interesting read. Also thanks for your kind words on the site. Like you mentioned, it really is the members/contributors who make it what it is.

I agree with most of what you said. However, I disagree with there being a lack of tent sites. I think you were probably let down by having expectations based on other tracks. The OT, although far from "wilderness" attempts to keep more of a wilderness aspect to it than some of the other big tracks around, and this means "roughing it" a bit more, and having less facilities (eg, huts with little or no facilities). Or maybe it's just because our government can't afford to do anything more with it . Where there do not appear to be enough tent platforms, there are always plenty of places to pitch a tent - although you may have to work a bit harder to find them. There are several large grassy areas along the OT near Pelion (Oakleigh View) hut, for example (and very few actual tent platforms at that one). There are a lot of tent platforms around the Bert Nichols monstrosity, but if they were all full, there are also some great places just out in the bush to set up tents in that area. In fact, you can pitch a tent anywhere (within reason) if you need to. Of course they prefer you to use platforms whenever possible, for good reasons, but you are not limited to platforms.

Having said that, I prefer private tent sites well away from infrastructure, so that's probably just a matter of personal preference.

As for the ferry - I agree 100%!

[Azza]

Did you do any side trips other than Cradle?

I've done a few great walks around the world.
IMHO to get the most out of the overland you really need to climb the peaks along the way.
If you just charge through to Narcissus then I'm not surprised the wow factor wasn't there.
Climbing Cradle, Barn, Ossa, Oakleigh, Pelion East etc. in the snow all gave me the wow factor.

Also the other part was doing the walk with a group of good friends and kicking back on the tent platforms of an evening and having a chat.

re: the ferry... The price seems to go up every couple of months - very annoying. I guess its a little expensive when compared to the Milford but you need two ferries there.
The Arm River Track is often used by local's to access the middle of the Overland -> there are those of us out there that do off track walking in the park.
There is so much more going on and on offer in there than just the Overland Track itself and it wouldn't be fair to shut locals out who are using the track to access other areas in the park.
I would have thought a system similar to NZ where user pays for service would have been better and fairer? i.e. Hut Fee's for those than stay in the hut itself.
But there are always those scummy backpackers who'll use the loop hole to get around the fees to walk the track for free.

re: tent platforms - what Son of a Beach said... heaps of places.. you don't need a wooden platform to pitch a tent.

[Miyata610]

I think the OP was more concerned about suitable places to pitch a tent rather than just platforms. It is a shame that we can no longer use the area on the arm river side of new pellion to camp, as an example. I think camping near old pellion is also now a no no.

Re the Mona café. I agree totally. However I got a good coffee and a nice feed on the Mona ferry for far less than they were charging at the café. Good service too. That ferry trip is good value.

As has already been said.... There is more to do than just the OT, they couldn't justify charging us for a quick visit from the arm river track or never never. Could they?

Btw... I asked Eric (the new ranger) the other day about how far down the arm river track from new pellion I needed to go to get away from the "no camping" zone. He could only say "a fair way". Does anyone know what that means?

[Son of a Beach]

Btw... I asked Eric (the new ranger) the other day about how far down the arm river track from new pellion I needed to go to get away from the "no camping" zone. He could only say "a fair way". Does anyone know what that means?

This is only a guess, but I would suggest that it should be far enough away so as not to use the creek there (Douglas Creek, I think?). I think the problems with camping there (again just guessing) were two-fold: The deterioration of the area due to heavy use, and the contamination of the water for people downstream (it was quite common for people to jump in the creek for a swim or wash, or to do their cutler/crockery/cooking washing up in the creek, instead of taking water from the creek away to wash up).

[ILUVSWTAS]

Btw... I asked Eric (the new ranger) the other day about how far down the arm river track from new pellion I needed to go to get away from the "no camping" zone. He could only say "a fair way". Does anyone know what that means?

I suspect it is a guide, or encouraged not to camp, it cant actually be illegal. So there probably isnt any set boundary.

[Miyata610]

Thanks sonofabeach.

Yeah that part of Douglas creek near the suspension bridge always looks very tempting for a dip as I pass by.

I don't want to hijack the thread, but.... What is the etiquette for taking a dip in a stream? The creek at that spot isn't upstream of any camping (since you can't camp at old pellion). I know a lot of people take a dip at the same creek near old pellion, it's often mentioned in the logbook in that hut.

[Son of a Beach]

Thanks sonofabeach.

Yeah that part of Douglas creek near the suspension bridge always looks very tempting for a dip as I pass by.

I don't want to hijack the thread, but.... What is the etiquette for taking a dip in a stream? The creek at that spot isn't upstream of any camping (since you can't camp at old pellion). I know a lot of people take a dip at the same creek near old pellion, it's often mentioned in the logbook in that hut.

Not sure on the etiquette, but I suppose common sense is to consider the likelihood of somebody else taking water for drinking/cooking from the same creek/river/lake anywhere further downstream. There is always the potential for people to be further downstream on Douglas Creek, if you are near the hut, although probably unlikely with the "no camping" guidelines now. Back when camping was allowed there, one of the problems was that some hut-dwellers would be swimming in the creek just south of (old) New Pelion Hut, while some tent-dwellers were camping and drinking from the creek around the corner just east of the hut. Sometimes neither group knew what the other was doing, as they were not visible to each other.

[ollster]

As an alt to taking a swim, maybe just collect some water and have a sponge down with a pack towel, away from the water? Or as I sometimes do a combination of a wipe down with water and the use of "wet wipes" for the more hygiene-sensitive areas.

[Miyata610]

As an alt to taking a swim, maybe just collect some water and have a sponge down with a pack towel, away from the water? Or as I sometimes do a combination of a wipe down with water and the use of "wet wipes" for the more hygiene-sensitive areas.

Yeah of course. But I was really asking about a swim as a form of recreation rather than a wash. Though the effect on the water can be similar.

[Nuts]

The idea was to protect the eroding riverbanks near the new hut and keep cleaner water for those camping down stream. Things have changed but I suspect the rules are easier (for management) to keep than remove (as with most regulation).

I'd imagine that the sign is enough to discourage people and think technically needs to be in place if anyone was ever fined. Practically, without a definite boundary I doubt prosecution would be successful.? I also doubt that wanting to prosecute people was the point, more encourage 'most' people to do things that are sustainable as if allowed for 'everyone'.

As has been mentioned, remote camping and off track are alternatives. I guess remote camping will need signs and platforms and off track will need tracks ultimately

[MrWalker]

I think the cost of the ferry is a serious issue. The Parks website opening page about the OT says it is 65km. The 'Planning you walk' page shows it ending at Narcissus and so does the Vertical profile. It is very clear (to those who have never been there) that the OT ends at Narcissus after 65km.

At the Cradle Mt end there is a free bus service (if you pay your park fees). So why isn't there anything equivalent from Narcissus to get you to the nearest car park and transport to Hobart?

The other problem with the ferry is that you cannot ever be sure it will run (even in good weather). They strongly discouraged me from booking a ride because they had no other booking for that time. So they tell that to everyone and they never get any bookings. they obviously only want to run with a full boat. In the end I insisted on having my name put down and of course after that they got more bookings. The Cradle Mt bus runs whether there is anyone booked or not so you know you can wait a short time for the next bus. If you are at Echo Point, the only way to tell them you are there is to wave a signal as they go by. If they don't run because they didn't have a booking you could sit there cold and wet and exhausted for quite a while never knowing whether the ferry will turn up.

[bailz66]

Mr Walker

I believe there is a radio back to the ferry in the last hut which you could use to ensure the Ferry is available?

I am doing this walk in a few weeks and don't plan on using the ferry at the end. We have 7 full days to do the walk Sat->Friday so although we wont get to do as many additional walks as we would like we should still enjoy 6 nights without kids to worry about for the first time in 3 years

[ollster]

If you are at Echo Point, the only way to tell them you are there is to wave a signal as they go by. If they don't run because they didn't have a booking you could sit there cold and wet and exhausted for quite a while never knowing whether the ferry will turn up.

I thought they didn't do pick ups at Echo Pt any more, only drop offs?

[Liamy77]

The Ferry, well!, I read the post re Stranded at Scotts Hut and the associated comments, especially about the lake St Clair ferry breaking down. The fee they charge, surely they could have a brand new boat as a spare!. While we were at Narcissus, the ferry had already taken 2 loads of 22, he took another full boat in the afternoon and ours in the morning was full. Now $40 per person for a 15 minute boat ride, hmmmm. I paid $30 for the MONA Ferry and got an excellent commentary and great service.

That seems really expensive - the bruny island freey is 15 mins each way for $28 total for the return trip......... with your car!

[Miyata610]

That seems really expensive - the bruny island freey is 15 mins each way for $28 total for the return trip......... with your car!

Do you mean the Mona ferry? It's only $15 return, in a modern air conditioned boat with comfortable seating and a cafe and it takes half an hour each way. You get an excellent commentary and some great views of various things along the way. A rare bargain.

[ollster]

That seems really expensive - the bruny island freey is 15 mins each way for $28 total for the return trip......... with your car!

The St Clair ferry is getting so expensive it's almost cheaper to start a boat consortium... I'm starting to baulk at $80 return for access to the middle of the park. Again, sealed road through Cuvier Valley please.

[frenchy_84]

You get an excellent commentary and some great views of various things along the way. A rare bargain.

And on the left you will see the beautiful fuel storage, followed by the magnificent and historic zinc works....

That seems really expensive - the bruny island freey is 15 mins each way for $28 total for the return trip......... with your car!

The St Clair ferry is getting so expensive it's almost cheaper to start a boat consortium... I'm starting to baulk at $80 return for access to the middle of the park. Again, sealed road through Cuvier Valley please.

Id be happy with a gravel road or a chair lift....

[Miyata610]

You get an excellent commentary and some great views of various things along the way. A rare bargain.

And on the left you will see the beautiful fuel storage, followed by the magnificent and historic zinc works....

Yeah that's it! I love that stuff.

[MrWalker]

If you are at Echo Point, the only way to tell them you are there is to wave a signal as they go by. If they don't run because they didn't have a booking you could sit there cold and wet and exhausted for quite a while never knowing whether the ferry will turn up.

I thought they didn't do pick ups at Echo Pt any more, only drop offs?

You may be right there. You used to be able to raise a signal from Echo Point, but the Lake St Clair Resort website now says that it only picks up "by prior arrangment and pre-payment".

[abmacus]

You get an excellent commentary and some great views of various things along the way. A rare bargain.

And on the left you will see the beautiful fuel storage, followed by the magnificent and historic zinc works....

As well as some rare White Chested Eagle which we were fortunate enough to get up very close to as it was perched in a tree on the bank of the river.

The walk to New Pelion from WFV was doable for sure, we left at 9am arrived New Pelion 6.30 and didnt really push ourselves, but even though I had worn my new you beaut Zamberlan VioxGTs for about 6 months, up hills and down, pounding pavement and bush tracks I still got blisters on my blisters. Fortunately my son had several rolls of Fixamol,strapping and electrical tape and I got through.
One of my goals was to climb Mt Ossa, but on arrival at Pelion Gap we couldnt even see up the track towards Ossa. One of the guys who was behind us decided to go up just so he could update his facebook status and say he had "climbed Ossa". He got into Kia Ora at about 8.45pm having been stuck up there for a few hours due to visibility being down to about 5m he reckons. He was actually quite worried. So I felt good about that decision (not going up).

In regard to wow factor there is certainly parts of it that were. I was on a fairly tight time schedule and had originally planned to do as Frenchy suggested and walk from WFV to New Pelion. But despite all of the prior preparation nothing really prepared me for TREE ROOTS! We didnt end up going into Pine Valley. If we had the extra day we certainly would have, even if my son had to carry me.
In regard to Azzas comments about doing all of the side trips, the weather wasnt really conducive to it, but having walked across Mackinnon pass in knee deep snow, and Harris saddle in snow hail and rain and wind, that sort of stuff does add WooHoo and does give memories lasting a lifetime, as well as something to talk about over a beer or three.
We met some great people, including 2 really funny German guys named Klaus and Klaus and a young fellow who tagged along with us due to his walking companion have been called up for Military duty the night before they were to start.

There were lots of spots where a tent could be setup in the bush, and I would have been happy to set up my brand new Hubba Hubba anywhere, but we were sort of under the impression that it wasnt really condoned, and when toilets are a tramp and a half away it sort influences a decision on where to sleep, although in some spots along the track it was evident that some people were not afraid to go anywhere, grrr to that person who left their bodily function mess under the bush near the sign on Frog Flats! You stink in more ways than one.

I also understand that locals should be able to use the area, but somehow it doesnt seem too fair if I was to rock up to a Hut having paid all my fees and someone can stay there basically for free.

I have promised my 13 year old daughter that I will take her for her 18th or 21st, although she has seen pictures of my New Zealand walks and the OT and has started pestering me already to do the Milford again.

On a complete aside, is there some sort of avenue to suggest to someone that the Cradle Mt and Lake St Clair prices, including the Ferry, are more of a form of Piracy than the Currjongs taking stuff out of Packs! Or is it really a lost cause due to the fact that they have the monopoly on everything. Everyone that I spoke to commented on the price and service and most of it was about high prices

[stepbystep]

abmacus a decent meal at a restaurant costs more than an overland pass so I wouldn't get too upset over the $$$ spent and if you are so upset over paying this price why begrudge the locals who get in there for nothing, you should salute their ingenuity!

Too bad you didn't get views from Pelion Gap it's the most speccy part of the track if you aren't doing sidetrips. Best do it again I reckon, maybe from Arm River eh?

btw - Pine Valley isn't worth the side trip unless you climb The Acropolis or get into The Labyrinth.

[Penguin]

Have been following this thread with interest and dismay. I have had similar experience with the ferry.

The price of the ferry is to the point of usury. But I seem to remember feeling the same when I caught the ferry at the end of the Milford Sound track four years ago. Can anybody remember the cost.

The Milford and OT are not the same experience. I have enjoyed both, but for different reasons. You could drive a tractor along most of the Milford track - infact they do.

On the Milford track you are guaranteed a bed in a hut. Huts with mattresses, gas and internal cold water. I agree that there are concerns about the lack of a guaranteed bed on the OT. 34 passes into the smaller huts does not go. I feel that the pass holder should have priority in the huts. Those that join at Arm River/Pelion should be expecting to use tents.

The weather can affect your experience of these two tracks. We had miserable weather on the Milford in January. The weather cleared when we went over Mackenzie Pass - so we had a great time. It could have been a miserable trip if it had rained the whole way. I went into WFV last weekend. The weather was great - all the walkers were really looking forward to getting down to Pelion and doing some side trips. They would have had a great time. In 2010 I did the OT in December with my daughter and partner (aet 22). It hailed, sleeted, wind blew and it was cold. We climbed Pelion East. The view was limited to 20 meters - so a bit disappointing.

I hope some of our local tourist operators read sites like this and see that they must offer a service - rather than depend on work/income coming to them.

Cheers

P

[Azza]

In regard to Azzas comments about doing all of the side trips, the weather wasnt really conducive to it, but having walked across Mackinnon pass in knee deep snow, and Harris saddle in snow hail and rain and wind, that sort of stuff does add WooHoo and does give memories lasting a lifetime, as well as something to talk about over a beer or three.

Conditions definitely make the difference.. I've done the Milford - didn't find it super excited the weather was poor, views non-existent, bucketing rain and didn't see anything from the pass. I'm sure it would have been 100 times better if I'd got the views.

So I can't say that it was a memorable experience, I've done a bit of mountaineering in NZ and almost died in process - but it was a memorable experience.
In contrast - I've walked in Patagonia. An absolutely amazing place.

They're all unique experience's, bit like chalk and cheese trying to compare them.
The one thing I do find in common is smug trekkers complaining about such and such isn't as good as XYZ...

These walks are what you make of them.... so not everyone gets the perfect walk.. my Milford walk was full of snobs from Sydney....
They looked down on everyone..

Unfortunately with these types of trips - you can't arrange the weather, or the people...

[Miyata610]

Pass holders do have priority at new pellion hut (the only hut you're allowed to use if you come in via alternate routes).

I checked this with the park HQ.

I use a bunk if one is available, but of course I'm always prepared to use alternative accommodation.

[Nuts]

First time ive heard that.. anyhow:

The Overland Track is one of several long tracks common among those with a worldwide ticklist. I take some of these people through every year and have just as often heard the OLT referred to as 'the best'. Not so much for 'wow' factors as for its variation and (relative) remote wilderness appeal compared to others. They have far more worldwide experience than me

Its not cheap exercise with travel, permits, transport etc. but does cost the same for two days as does for ten (which is why longer is better when considered for value)

[Miyata610]

First time ive heard that.. anyhow:

Well that's what I was told just a few weeks ago... Can you check with them when you're there on Monday please?

[corvus]

[quote="Penguin"]Have been following this thread with interest and dismay. I have had similar experience with the ferry.

The price of the ferry is to the point of usury. But I seem to remember feeling the same when I caught the ferry at the end of the Milford Sound track four years ago. Can anybody remember the cost.
[quote="Penguin"]

Interesting comment so I will play Devils Advocate and ask how would you fund this service for a full year OK in season when you have a full boat load what about other times when I think the minimum passenger load is 6 ?
corvus

[Nuts]

Miyata, tbh most rules seem to be made to fit by whoever is asked at any particular time. This one has some merit but they come and go as quick as some staff. I will ask next time i'm up there. Am curious as to why you'd think that was Monday

[mjdalessa]

I guess for me I am not concerned about the facilities because I do not enjoy using tourist ventures in my own state, I prefer a wilderness experience. With better facilities and advertising (we see this all the time on the OT) you attract people that really shouldn't be there.

Parks are have barely any money, which probably explains your track fee.

Can you really not stay at any huts other than New Pelion? I know heaps of people (any have myself) that have stayed at Kia Ora, Bert Nicholls and others without taking the Overland highway.