advice needed for first day of walking overland track

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advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby sandyb » Wed 11 Jan, 2012 6:46 pm

Hi there everyone, I am walking the overland track in late Feb with my husband and wanted to seek some advice. We are catching a bus from Launceston and arrive at Cradle Mountain at 1200. We then have to check in etc. and catch the shuttle bus to Ronny Creek, I am guessing we would start off by about 1300.
My question is this, do you think we should do the Cradle Summit sidetrip, then continue on to Waterfall Valley, I am wondering if there will be enough time, or would the better option be t leave our tent/packs behind on the following day and then backtrack and do the summit? If we were to do this, would it be possible to do the Barn Bluff sidetrip as well on the same day?
We have a good amount of experience hiking, but not that much so far with carrying back packs and overnight camping.
I look forward to your advice, we have gained so much valuable information from this forum already.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby abmacus » Wed 11 Jan, 2012 11:42 pm

My son and I had the exact same timings as what you've written. Did the walk 17th Dec - 23rd We casually strolled starting from Ronnie Creek at 1.15ish. Went up Cradle Mountain I only got as far as the sort of false summit took some photos rang my daughter sent my wife a MMS wowed over the views for a bit.
Im reasonably fit but not a mountain goat like my 21 year old son. He would have done it in half the time as me and not got a sore butt on the way down.
We then headed to WFV and got in at 8.15pm.

Even though we got in this late we still had heaps of light to set up tents. The group site was available and the warden who was there said she wasnt expecting any groups in that night. I can recomend them although they are miles away from the loos. I think that we were the only campers that night that didnt have some sort of animal coming into our tent or trying to get stuff out of our packs.

At the visitors centre it was actually quite chaotic. A stack of people started queing at one counter for about 10 mins, were then told to move somewhere else to be served. Even though there was about 15 people wanting to check into the OT, they only had one person serving. Then most of the people didnt have the National Parks Pass, this meant they had to use the one and only Eftpos machine across the other side of the counter, so maybe making sure that you have all of the passes prior to starting, might save a bit of time.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby philm » Thu 12 Jan, 2012 8:14 am

Hi there
I would advise keeping your options open depending on actual start times and the weather. Keeping your options open and being flexible is the best approach. We left Ronny Creek at about 9am and took our time stopping for lunch at Marions look out early. By the time we reached Kitchen Hut the weather had closed in around Cradle Mountain and it was covered in cloud. We decided not to do the side trip and took our time arriving at Waterfall Valley about 3.30 - 4 pm.

The first day of the Overland can be challenging as everyone is getting used to their packs and the weight (keep this down) and then there is the climb up Marion's look out.
I'd suggest seeing how you feel and making a decision at the time. If you decided to do Cradle Mountain side trip it could be a long day.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby sandyb » Thu 12 Jan, 2012 8:22 am

Thanks abmacus for your quick reply, Ifeel a bit more confident now, knowing that we could do the summit and make it to camp still in daylight.
Thanks for the tip about the National Parks Pass, we were going to arrange it on the day, but will now rethink things.
One more question, when climbing the summits, do people generally take up their whole backpack, or just a day pack and leave the big pack at the start, and if so, is it reasonably safe to do this.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby norts » Thu 12 Jan, 2012 9:03 am

Mostly ppl leave their packs on the OT. But be aware that birds can open zips on packs, saw a real mess at Pelion Gap where birds had opened a zip on a pack, stuff everywhere also seen a mess at the barn Bluff turn offf. They had a pack cover on but still the birds got in. Dont think they can open clip type fastenings.

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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby weetbix456 » Thu 12 Jan, 2012 9:49 am

yea make sure those bags are secure! the birds can be a bugger. if doing the cradle summit you can leave your pack in kitchen hut, on others take it just off the main track, leave it propped up againsts something which allows good drainage and put you're pack cover on. Never know when the weather might decide to unleash! the summer nights are long in tassie..fill up your days the best you can while your on the track! theres plenty to do and beats sitting round in those huts :D
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby South_Aussie_Hiker » Thu 12 Jan, 2012 9:57 am

The first day is by far the hardest.

The slog up to Marion's is a slap in the face. Your pack is at it's heaviest and your body will adjust to it's weight on subsequent days. The vertical changes in the track if you do Cradle or Barn are quite huge.

Should be okay getting to WFV in the afternoon, but you'd want to be a fairly quick walker if you want to include a Cradle side trip.

Leave your pack inside Kitchen hut, but take valuables like phone/wallet with you so that day walkers with sticky fingers don't help themselves. For other side trips, lay your pack on it's back with the pack cover over the top and tucked right in underneath. A private tour guide once told me if the birds can see zips, they will open your pack. If you put the pack cover on loosely and they can still spy side zips, they will get under the cover and open them. If they can't see ANY zips, they don't think they exist and will leave your pack alone. Worked for us in 2009.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby abmacus » Thu 12 Jan, 2012 12:25 pm

We thought that we would have plenty of time but really it would have been better to (but impossible for us) leave earlier.
As a special OT prezzie I bought my son and I one of those lightweight sea to summit ultra sil day packs,( http://www.seatosummit.com.au/showdetai ... ode=AUSWDP) this was wicked. Could chuck phones and everything inside this and carry them on our side trips. Handy for the swims at the waterfalls a well as we could take our lunches and towells etc. Tey are light and tough.My son now uses his as his normal beach/work/everday day pack.
We saw 2 packs on day one that had been "violated" by birds, one outside kitchen hut which had a cover on, and a day pack left halfway up the cradle walk which had stuff strewn everywhere.
We also saw several other packs over the next 5 days, on 2 occasions it was guides from the private walks that had nuts and plastic everywhere. One at the Lake Will turn off platform, one at Pelion Gap. Unfortunately we were uable to find any unopened bottles of red wine that had been carried off and left due to the inability of the birds to open the bottles!
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby South_Aussie_Hiker » Thu 12 Jan, 2012 12:34 pm

Re: the ultrasil daypacks, couldn't agree more. My wife and I wouldn't go bushwalking in Tassie without them!

Why would people leave their packs OUTSIDE Kitchen hut???? :roll:
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby AndyR » Thu 12 Jan, 2012 2:51 pm

South_Aussie_Hiker wrote:Leave your pack inside Kitchen hut, but take valuables like phone/wallet with you so that day walkers with sticky fingers don't help themselves.


Agree wholeheartedly but be warned it's not just light fingered walkers, a couple of years ago there was a pair of resident Quolls that were helping themselves if people hadn't secured their pack properly :D

Enjoy!

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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby Overlandman » Thu 12 Jan, 2012 7:44 pm

Hi, is it possible for you to get to Cradle Valley the day before you start the Overland Track, You can put a tent up in the camp ground, or stay at one of the lodges, that way you can start before 10am on the day with plenty of time to do Cradle Summit, and get to Waterfall Valley with time to set up your tent, meals etc, & enjoy the special splendour of the valley, Barns Bluff can be climbed on the 2nd day before you head to Windermere Hut. If you have any questions, you can talk with the track warden based at Waterfall Valley hut

There are two types of Sea to Summit day packs, the Ultra Seal Day Pack & the Ultra Seal Dry Day Pack ( link as above) The newer Dry Day Pack is the one to have!

There is snow on Cradle Mountain from Wednesday night. Enjoy your walk,
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby ULWalkingPhil » Fri 13 Jan, 2012 5:02 pm

I was originally going to hike the overland track sometime this February, but the more I read about the high numbers of hikers the more I'm deterred. I've cancelled my plans to hike this February. Instead I'm seriously considering hiking in October or November, I've never seen snow in my life, would love to encounter some snow on the walk, I'm guessing October/November there will not be as many Hikers on the trail as there is in peak time.

For the first day, I'm planning on pitching my tent somewhere near the start of the walk and getting an early start on the following day. Are there any camp sites nearby at the start of the walk?
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby corvus » Fri 13 Jan, 2012 6:04 pm

G'day Phillip,
Only camping at the Cradle end is at the Commercial Campground outside the Park not far from the Visitors Centre however the Shuttle buses are not as frequent off season so double check that one ,you could hire a cabin at Waldheim.

If you are doing it from Cynthia Bay Off Season there is a Commercial Campsite or a free one at Fergys Paddock.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby Penguin » Fri 13 Jan, 2012 6:08 pm

Phillipsart wrote:
For the first day, I'm planning on pitching my tent somewhere near the start of the walk and getting an early start on the following day. Are there any camp sites nearby at the start of the walk?


First day to WFV is around four hours if the snow is not deep - so you can easily get in if you start at lunch time

P
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby Ent » Fri 13 Jan, 2012 6:11 pm

Penguin wrote:
Phillipsart wrote:
For the first day, I'm planning on pitching my tent somewhere near the start of the walk and getting an early start on the following day. Are there any camp sites nearby at the start of the walk?


First day to WFV is around four hours if the snow is not deep - so you can easily get in if you start at lunch time

P


And some have been known to do it at night :wink:

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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby ollster » Fri 13 Jan, 2012 6:23 pm

Phillipsart wrote:I was originally going to hike the overland track sometime this February, but the more I read about the high numbers of hikers the more I'm deterred. I've cancelled my plans to hike this February. Instead I'm seriously considering hiking in October or November, I've never seen snow in my life, would love to encounter some snow on the walk, I'm guessing October/November there will not be as many Hikers on the trail as there is in peak time.


What do you expect, it's a tourist route, not a wilderness walk. :roll:

Don't bet on it. A lot of people get in just prior to the start of the circus season, and unlike peak season it will be unregulated. If you're scared of snow and people, go in around May/June.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby Mark F » Sat 14 Jan, 2012 5:17 pm

You could walk to Scott Kilvert hut on the first day heading up the Eastern side of Dove Lake. This is a shorter walk than to Waterfall Valley. This option also allows you to visit Twisted Tarns, Artist Pool and see Weindorfers Tower up close. It is also a more sheltered route if the weather is bad. Day 2 then has plenty of time to do both Cradle and Barn Bluff before hitting Waterfall Valley. Walk through to Cradle Cirque where the track joins the main track. If you only want to climb one peak then Barn Bluff is great or you can walk back along the main track to the route up Cradle. If the weather on Day 2 is unkind, skip one or both peaks and continue to Windemere.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby bailz66 » Sat 14 Jan, 2012 7:47 pm

We heading off about the same time of year but will hit the visitor center at about 9:30 am, what's peoples thoughts on the extra time day 1? Should we do first 2 days worth of walking on day 1 or if cradel side trip is the go?

Or other suggestions?
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby Mark F » Sat 14 Jan, 2012 8:59 pm

There are really 3 main focii in the park for first timer walkers. Cradle/Barn Bluff, The Pelion Ring (Pelion West, Ossa, Pelion East, Oakleigh) and Pine Valley/Labyrinth and associated peaks. To race past any of these, particularly the first two, is to miss much of the best that the OLT has to offer. As the old bull said to the younger bull, " ...". Take your time and enjoy - you won't set any records by rushing.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby bailz66 » Sat 14 Jan, 2012 9:35 pm

Should have explained better.

The idea of doing 2 days on day 1 is to allow extra side tracks
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby Mark F » Sat 14 Jan, 2012 10:21 pm

Hi bailz66

Once you drop down to Waterfall hut you have passed the first locus of Cradle/Barn Bluff. My advice is to work with the weather. If day 1 is good then don't walk beyond Waterfall Valley and do at least one of the peaks, or take the track up the eastern side of Dove Lake and cut across the northern face of Cradle to join the main route near Kitchen Hut and still do Cradle or Barn Bluff. If the weather is lousy then use the normal route and push on to Windemere if that works for your fitness and timing. Don't try to plan it because you won't know what the weather will be until you are there. Ultimately you have X days to get to Cynthia Bay. What happens in between is dictated by the weather and you. Don't pass up opportunities hoping that better ones will be there in 2 days time - Tassie weather is a little more fickle than that.

I remember walking past West Pelion on my first OLT walk in 1968 and only knowing it was there when I passed the signpost, but I had bagged Cradle and Barn Bluff the previous day in great weather. My second trip through the opposite was true.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby Erica » Tue 17 Jan, 2012 8:49 pm

South_Aussie_Hiker wrote: Why would people leave their packs OUTSIDE Kitchen hut???? :roll:


I've spent a fair bit of time on the Overland (worked there for the past 5 summers) and if my groups are stopping at kitchen hut I always make them leave packs outside (albeit, just for lunch) due to the small size of the hut and the need to move around. If the weather turned poor and there were packs taking up space I wouldn't hesitate to move them for people's shelter. Although, on a fine day (hopefully people are only climbing the mountain in fine weather!) space inside kitchen hut wouldn't be as much of a problem!

and yes, watch out for zips on packs!! The birds can get into anything. Also be careful with stuffing things into side pockets that don't close up properly (a big problem with the One Planet packs that Cradle Huts use, and i own myself, as well as many other pack) as they will pull these out as well.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby Nuts » Tue 17 Jan, 2012 10:17 pm

Yes, of course. Its no solution to leave packs inside. Its a problem that needs to be dealt with for all the side trips as you venture further into this wilderness. Empty the top and side pockets (especially of edible stuff).

Its going to be up to the weather gods sandy, most people would have enough time for a side walk to Cradle summit. One or the other with Barn bluff (to me), there are other peaks further south to enjoy.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby sandyb » Wed 18 Jan, 2012 10:02 am

Thanks everyone for all the advice, and yes, I guess we will just have to wait and see how the weather treats us, although it would be a real shame if we were unable to climb Cradle Mountain.
The Sea to Summit day packs look fantastic abmacus, thanks for the reccommendation, we are looking into getting these now, and we will be sure to try and
leave our larger packs so that the birds can hopefully not get into them.
Thanks again to everyone for the tips.
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Re: advice needed for first day of walking overland track

Postby freemandale » Fri 20 Jan, 2012 7:27 pm

Have done many day walks around Cradle, up Marion's Lookout, overnight via Scott Kilvert, across Face Track etc, at all time of year. Still found my first day on the OLT in Oct with a full multiday pack, in full wet weather gear, very arduous! We stayed overnight the previous night at the Waldheim Chalets and set off around 10am. Knee deep snow in the morning, turning to ice as the tracks became more worn during the afternoon; presented a real challenge! Finally arrived at WFV around 4pm after lots of 'photo opportunities' and time spent not forgetting to look back.

We took a full 6 days to walk to Narcissus - enjoying the journey! Day one was by far the hardest! Day one was snow, day two ice, day three slush, day four mud, day five and six a breeze!

Full huts every night - I would say that the month prior to the booking system would be as busy as any 'peak' time on the OLT.

Also had a Sea to Summit Ultrasil day pack - great for side trips!
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