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Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Wed 25 Nov, 2015 8:25 am

Hi All,

I'm beginning to plan my next big trip for next year's winter and would love to get some input from all your accumulative experience!

To give you a bit of background, this year in June, I completed a 25 day mission to climb some of the lesser visited peaks of Cradle Mt-Lake St Clair NP.

Some of you may remember this thread: http://bushwalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=20702

The full trip report is now available on the lovely website of Tasmanian Geographic: https://www.tasmaniangeographic.com/the-highline-traverse-icy-mountaineering-in-the-high-peaks/

You will also find more photos on Mountains of Australia. http://mountainsofaustralia.com/?page_id=290


Basically, that trip was only the warm-up. The next one's going to be a bit more serious.

I'm toying with the idea of completing a 10-12 week ridgeline traverse of Tasmania, in mid-winter for 2016.

My proposed route would utilize some existing tracks, but also include 4-6 weeks of untracked terrain across the Prince of Wales and Frankland Range.

As I haven't walked these ranges in the past, I'm trying to measure the feasibility of walking them in winter, solo.


Has anyone ever attempted either of these walks in mid-winter? Anyone...?


The questions that I would like to know the answer to are as follows:

What would be the most serious hazards/challenges?

What would be a generous time estimate for both the POW and the Frankland Range?

Also, a third question is regarding route advice, from Federation Peak to the south coast. Since my aim is to follow dominant ridgelines, I was planning on walking from Mt Bobs south to PB. Is this feasible?
Is there a more suitable route?


Ok, that's it for now, thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Andy S.

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Wed 25 Nov, 2015 10:30 am

As I haven't walked these ranges in the past, I'm trying to measure the feasibility of walking them in winter, solo.
The southern POWs will be hard, and the river crossing at the end very hard.

Has anyone ever attempted either of these walks in mid-winter? Anyone...?
Dave Noble has done the WAfurs in winter.


What would be the most serious hazards/challenges?
Flooded rivers, nil ability to dry wet gear, and technical mountaineering.

What would be a generous time estimate for both the POW and the Frankland Range?
The POW is summer is about ten days. I'd double that for winter as you will have half the daylight, no visibility for navigation, and obligatory rest days.
The Franklands is about 8 days in summer, with the decent off Mt Frankland and Secheron being a technical winter adventure that will require ropes.


Also, a third question is regarding route advice, from Federation Peak to the south coast. Since my aim is to follow dominant ridgelines, I was planning on walking from Mt Bobs south to PB. Is this feasible?
It has been done before. But keep in mind that the scrub between the two is known to be nigh impenetrable. Expect to have multiple days of less than 1km/h progress.

Is there a more suitable route?
Ask others in the forum, but perhaps going to Mt Snowy and following the Hartz mountains down south via Adamasons might be easier. Getting across the Picton river might be impossible and the climb up the western face of Mt Snowy might be type three fun.

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Wed 25 Nov, 2015 10:56 pm

For a start - I think it would be very difficult to do a full traverse of the POW Range solo. The last section from Southern Bluff to Yop Yop (Now called Mt Olegas) is quite scrubby and best done with a few others to share out the leading. It would also be wise to have had some experience of Tassie scrub (and also be aware of the statement "There is no scrub in the Reserve").

Also - all these ranges experience a very maritime climate - so any snow that falls would not last very long in most conditions you can expect. Both the POW and Frankland Ranges require a fair bit of route finding (there may be faint pads in places) - and this is best done with long daylight hours, not the short days of winter.

Dave

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Thu 26 Nov, 2015 8:45 am

Thanks Dave, the scrub terrifies me more than the ice and the rocks do. Thee is something in the murky depths of the tasmanian scrub, especially when faced alone that brings your deepest, darkest dreams to the fore... Then again, I've been told that crying on camera is a sure way to film a great story.

I agree however, that going solo on this particular mission may not be the best idea... Especially through the Frankland and POW.

Which is why I'm looking at assembling a team.

Have you ever wondered what the POW or the Frankland Range would look like in winter?

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Thu 26 Nov, 2015 8:49 am

Also, thanks icefest for the detailed response. Good to know about those tricky spots, I'm trying to identify all the cruxes of the trip and see how best to tackle them. Perhaps I will walk in and stash a pack raft at the Denison River prior to starting this walk...

As for getting wet, which is inevitable if you spend long enough out there in the middle of winter, synthetic insulation will prevail over down.

Does anyone know where to get gore-tex socks? Might be handy once the boots get wet...

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Thu 26 Nov, 2015 9:16 am

Goretex socks are useless if your shoes never dry out. What's the point of breathable socks if you shoes won't breathe? Neoprene socks would be more use.

Why don''t you have a look at the southern end of the POWs this summer? Or join one of the bushwalking clubs on a scrub-bashing trip?

Have a read of naturelovers most recent trip and then imagine scrub much thicker, with sleet and slush on the ground and to top it all off you'll only get 8 hours of daylight.
http://natureloverswalks.blogspot.com.a ... ember.html

It isn't impossible, but it will be orders of magnitude harder than your trip last winter.

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Thu 26 Nov, 2015 10:07 am

Er, yeah, Mt Gell & surrounds doesn't quite compare, there is little scrub in that area, by SW standards (exactly as Dave has said).

Having done most of Tassies ranges (incl. Franklands, POW's, Arthurs, Eldons etc.) i'd agree with comments that the POW's are Australia's toughest ridge top walk; & we didn't even do the Yop Yop section, which i'd imagine you'll want to be including to be true to your goal? :wink: Other issue on this range (& to a far lesser extent, The Franklands) is no possibility of stashing any food drops prior, which means 2 weeks worth of food on board. Also, extra weight of warmer clothes, bulkier winter synthetic sleeping bag & jacket for a winter trip will mean a massive pack; & you'll still likely need to add several kilos of water, even in winter you could still have problems sourcing water on this range. Besides the POW's, the other 'crux' will be the section between Bobs & PB (Vanishing Falls route); this gets very little traffic & is notoriously rough & slow going, & again, funnily enough probably even in winter, dry (as far as drinking water goes). Any flooded rivers are a danger at any time of year, but particularly so in winter so plenty of forward planning needs to be taken into account there, as swollen rivers in winter may take weeks or longer to subside.

The never ending wet (you won't be walking on snow along these ranges, just in wet slush...at best) will be a challenge. I've already linked this trip to Andy, & the dangers of continual wet feet leading to Trench Foot: http://www.louis-philippe-loncke.com/2006/12/wild-mountains-of-tasmania.html...also worth looking at Roger Chao & Stephen Fordyce's trip through the West & East Arthurs in winter in 2006, which won them the 2006 Young Adventurer of the Year award, and of course Dave's winter trips through the SW & Kevin Dorans winter Federation Peak expeditions.

Not so much mountaineering in Tassie's winters, more about staving off hypothermia & dealing with the misery of the constant damp...scrubs bad enough without it being constantly wet & zero degrees (much less with the wind chill).

Ambitious, but then ambition is to be admired right? Good luck!
Last edited by stu on Thu 26 Nov, 2015 3:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Thu 26 Nov, 2015 3:28 pm

I'm potentially in for a week or two...but not POW!

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Thu 26 Nov, 2015 7:06 pm

Where are all the rule 24 fun police ?? I thought they'd be all over this by now :D
Guess they must have all gone bush.....lucky buggers!

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Thu 26 Nov, 2015 8:33 pm

Sounds like a suffer fest Andy ;-)

I'd not want to try tackling the Denison River at the end of the POW's again after last time, let alone in winter.

I'm kinda struggling to see what could be a successful route in winter.

I'd suggest you'd almost be better to avoid the POW's and try to head over the King Willies to the Denison Range / Vale of Rassellas / the Florentine Valley / whatever you can get away with.
But the rivers are going to be what gets you.... The Gordon is notorious...

And yes.. you'd probably do well to avoid Bobs Knob section...

It sounds a bit too hard for short days in winter.

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Thu 26 Nov, 2015 9:14 pm

Mechanic-AL wrote:Where are all the rule 24 fun police ?? I thought they'd be all over this by now :D
Guess they must have all gone bush.....lucky buggers!


No. I only know the tougher parts of the proposed route by reputation. I know Andy is pretty experienced at off-track nav in Tassie, and at winter traverses here. I have my doubts about the practicality of some of it - particularly the POWs - but from what I've seen of him he's sensible enough and experienced enough to assess the risks and make his own decisions about whether it is viable when he has gathered sufficient information.

It's not like someone with absolutely no off-track experience in the state bigging himnself up and deciding to tackle one of the hardest possible walks.

Azzza's suggestion about King Willies rather than POWs makes sense. Not that the country from Willy 3 and on is a doddle, but it has to be easier than the POWs. But the rivers . . . the maritime climate is the big enemy. Snow won't last that long on a lot of the ridges, water levels will be up, getting all the way through will be *&%$#! difficult and dangerous. And it's a long way to haul a packraft . . .

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 27 Nov, 2015 12:09 am

Excellent feedback guys, really appreciate it. I'm getting all the info I need.

So far, I haven't heard any deal breakers yet...

The river crossings can be sorted. Stash a pack raft at the Denison to allow for safe crossing. Any other sketchy river crossings?

Do a scouting mission to Bob's knobs, see how bad that scrub really is. I've always wanted to visit Vanishing Falls, anyway. Do it in February.

Scrub can be overcome, all you need is enough food and a compass. If I have accurate time estimates, I can provision accordingly.

Trench foot only happens if you don't have dry socks to put on at night. Two dry bags inside a pack liner should be sufficient to keep at least one pair of socks dry.

Yes, it will be *&%$#! hard. But it will also be something remarkable. A story I shall bring back, I promise.

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 27 Nov, 2015 12:11 am

As for daylight hours... even during the shortest days, we get 10 hours. With a winter pack is about as much as I can walk in a day anyway...

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 27 Nov, 2015 6:34 am

Mechanic-AL wrote:Where are all the rule 24 fun police ?? I thought they'd be all over this by now :D
Guess they must have all gone bush.....lucky buggers!


There is no clash of ego V environment here?? :?
Though i'd be more impressed with Loncke style, sans modern conveniences. No PLB!
Heck! It doesn't even sound like he had TI T-tree infused foot powder :shock:
Hey, an unspilt drinks tray.. Now That, would be impressive!

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 27 Nov, 2015 9:38 am

Here is some reading material for you -

King Williams, POW, Wilmots, Franklands -

http://www.subw.org.au/archives/POR/Thrash.html

and Western Arthurs in Winter -

https://tomwilliamsbluemountains.wordpress.com/2015/10/07/wheeling/

Dave

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 27 Nov, 2015 3:56 pm

Some great reading and info there, thanks Dave Noble.

FF

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Tue 01 Dec, 2015 8:27 pm

Yup, thanks for that Dave, much appreciated. Going through some old Tassie Tramps...some ripper yarns in there!

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Sun 06 Dec, 2015 7:34 am

Ok, I'm beginning to see, this walk is going to be monumental. Perhaps this winter, I will start with something smaller. Perhaps a visit to Diamond Peak in the heart of winter? It would be an ideal training trip to get us ready for a full traverse later down the track...

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Sun 06 Dec, 2015 11:01 am

gore tex or any mosture permeable waterproof membrane in any footwear has a limited lifespan, the membrane eventually shreds with use from all the pressure in the footwear.
and it will never let your feet dry out even while its intact.

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Sun 06 Dec, 2015 11:13 am

There's probably more chance of seeing a fish riding a bicycle down Davey St than there is of keeping your feet dry on a walk of this magnitude in winter!

AL

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Mon 07 Dec, 2015 1:23 am

andyszollosi wrote:Trench foot only happens if you don't have dry socks to put on at night. Two dry bags inside a pack liner should be sufficient to keep at least one pair of socks dry.

Consider that these socks will gradually get wet (from your feet) and you may never be able to get them dry.

For another perspective on winter Western Arthurs, check out http://www.bogong.com.au/blog/western-arthurs-winter/

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Tue 01 Mar, 2016 10:14 am

I found David Blundy's (a brother of tblundy?) blog site text and photos on the WAs traverse in winter to be very interesting and it certainly is a great achievement. And it adds some perspective for someone who has just recently walked off the WAs down K Moraine after 2 days 'stuck' at Promontory Lake hoping for better weather to complete the walk to Lake Rosanne.
Just for a bit of history, the first winter traverse of the WAs was done by a small party led by Joe Friend in the later 60s I think or at least before aerial food drops were banned. I can't think where I read an illustrated account of that walk but I seem to remember that they couldn’t locate the drop on the range because of snow cover. That may have been on High Moor but that is just a guess on my part though it would seem to fit the terrain. Maybe someone has more info.

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 04 Mar, 2016 9:23 am

mikethepike wrote:Just for a bit of history, the first winter traverse of the WAs was done by a small party led by Joe Friend in the later 60s I think or at least before aerial food drops were banned. I can't think where I read an illustrated account of that walk but I seem to remember that they couldn’t locate the drop on the range because of snow cover. That may have been on High Moor but that is just a guess on my part though it would seem to fit the terrain. Maybe someone has more info.


I remember hearing about that trip. (Early 70's I think) I think they did manage to find their air drops because they had streamers coming out of the snow? And they did have good weather at High Moor which allowed them to dry their gear. The trip was written up in a magazine - I think it was a (black and white) photo spread in "Out and About", the SUMC magazine. But I don't think they were the first party. According to this article a party from Sydney traversed the Western and Eastern Arthurs in Winter around 1964 or 65. See - http://www.subw.org.au/archives/POR/Confessions.html. There could well have been other parties as well?

I was on a winter traverse in 1976 with Tom Williams and Steve Moon, photos here - http://www.david-noble.net/Tasmania/WinterWesternArthurs/WinterWesternArthursMenu.html and it was written up by me for Australian Outdoors Magazine (May 1978). Tom has recently written up an account of this trip for his blog - https://tomwilliamsbluemountains.wordpress.com/2015/10/07/wheeling/

I went back to the range in the winter of 1980 - http://www.david-noble.net/Tasmania/WesternArthursAug80/WinterArthurs.html and 1987 - http://www.david-noble.net/Tasmania/WesternArthursJul87/WinterWesternArthurs.html for partial traverses. The second of these was written up for GEO in 1991 (Vol 13, No 3) by Roger Lembit.

Dave

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 04 Mar, 2016 12:43 pm

Some great photos thanks Dave.

I wonder if anyone has ever done a full traverse (up A to Cracroft) solo in winter?

Cheers,
JohnR

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 04 Mar, 2016 1:27 pm

JohnR wrote:I wonder if anyone has ever done a full traverse (up A to Cracroft) solo in winter?

Cheers,
JohnR


I think Wade Butler may have done a solo winter traverse. He later vanished on a solo walk to PB.

Dave

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 15 Jul, 2016 11:36 am

How are your plans going/gone with this trip Andy ?? If your out there somewhere at the moment I'm not sure I would envy you at all. :?:

AL

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 15 Jul, 2016 4:53 pm

Lyell Hwy to Diamond Peak return in winter would be about a 6-7 day trip (without weather delays). Wouldn't consider it myself (Algonkian Mountain is a real sod to traverse once, let alone twice) and wouldn't attempt it without a GPS to aid navigation.

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Mon 18 Jul, 2016 3:19 pm

>Trench foot only happens if you >don't have dry socks to put on at >night. Two dry bags inside a pack >liner should be sufficient to keep >at least one pair of socks dry.

Not quite true. A few hundred kiwi trampers and possumers would correct you on that one. Speaking personally its a continual battle when working in wet boots every day ... even if you can dry off at night. But that said ... in cold climates its a hassle, not a showstopper (the pictures of its efects in the tropics are something I never want to experience). Plenty of lamasil, nuetrogena and a pack or two of toughen up pills for morning starts on those split soles.

Sounds like a great mission ... look forward to the report.

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Fri 22 Jul, 2016 10:06 pm

Mechanic-AL wrote:How are your plans going/gone with this trip Andy ?? If your out there somewhere at the moment I'm not sure I would envy you at all. :?:

AL

Andy has followed a different tack:
http://www.winterontheblade.com

Re: Winter Traverse of Tasmania's Mountains

Tue 10 Apr, 2018 8:41 am

A friend said he met Andy near the start of the South Coast Track at the beginning of an 88 day solo walk, including PB, Vanishing Falls, Bobs Knobs, Federation Peak and the Eastern and Western Arthurs, the Frankland Range and the Eldon Range and more. He is one tough adventurer.
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