Federation Peak - preparation

[ak83]

Hey Everyone!

I plan on doing Fedder in Jan 2012 with a small group (4 reasonably fit guys btw 18 - 28). I am currently building up my multiday walking fitness again after a few years of not doing any, but want some advice on the rock scramble at the top. Any similar scrambles on smaller walks in tas that you recomend to practice on? Or is the only real issue the view?! Also is it worth packing a pair of volleys or trail runners for the scramble ... i am unsure if i will be confident to scramble in my leather scarpa's!

Also happy to accept any other advice!

Happy Walking

[pazzar]

A mate of mine climbed up in runners. The climb itself is not technically difficult, but everything is relative to your comfort level. Its coming down that most people have issues with. It is a really exposed climb, most people recommend Mt Anne to get used to a bit of exposure, but it doesn't really compare to Feder.

[mjdalessa]

West portal would probably be good, haven't been there so don't know exactly what its like, but apparently it is exposed and the weather/ rock types are very similiar. You could do a circuit from Pine Valley and take in Hyperion and both peaks of Geryon. This could be done in a day but coming out of the valley to the pool of memories can be tricky.

[whynotwalk]

G'day ak - I've written a narrative account of my trip there in 1991. It doesn't try to describe "how to", but it does give you a feeling for the walk/climb. And there are a few cautionary tales.

It became a very important event for me. You'll find it on my blog at http://auntyscuttle.blogspot.com/2009/07/federation-peak-part-1.html Note that there are 15 episodes ... just click "newer post" at the bottom of each to bring up the next post,

cheers

Peter

[hikingoz]

West portal would probably be good, haven't been there so don't know exactly what its like, but apparently it is exposed and the weather/ rock types are very similiar. You could do a circuit from Pine Valley and take in Hyperion and both peaks of Geryon. This could be done in a day but coming out of the valley to the pool of memories can be tricky.

I think West Portal might be a bit remote to be considered a good practice. Beter off to just do Feders in that case, or do a full traverse of both east and west arthurs .

I agree with the comments that the ascent (and descent) is hard relative to comfort levels. Anyone who has done a bit of climbing outdoors should find it easy. Exposure to exposure is the key I don't think the actual climbing is technical, just finding the right route to the top.

[north-north-west]

. Exposure to exposure is the key I don't think the actual climbing is technical, just finding the right route to the top.

And, more importantly, the right route down . . .

[byrnesy8]

I am planning to do the Federation peak with a group in February. what is the best reference on the climbing routes?

Cheers

Paul

[pazzar]

Check out Chapman's Southwest book. He gives the traditional walkers routes, and his times are pretty well spot on for this walk. There are other books out there just on Feder, but are more directed at rock climbers. The book titled Federation Peak by Kevin Doran is worth a look though, it gives you a lot of history of the peak, as well as stories of multiple ways to climb it.

The best recommendation is to go up the same way 99% of people go up, the Southern Ascent, which is described in Chapmans book. It is reasonably well cairned if you keep your eyes open.

[stu]

West Portal is fairly easy, there is just a short exposed section near the top ridge is gained; can't really be compared to Federation tho (apart from having the same rock type).
Agreed tho, it's a long way to go for 'training'...
Same with Mt Anne, yes, if you feel fine with the exposure there then that is a good start.
Ditto with Hyperion & the Geryons (South a bit harder than north), they only have short sections of exposed scrambling & Hyperion is not really exposed at all, just a steep / vertical section that must be negotiated to gain the upper ridge & gulley; it would be a long day to do Hyperion + both Geryons return from Pine Valley tho...

If coming in from Farmhose Creek there is some minor scrambling on Moss Ridge + Geeves Gulley to get you prepared or if coming along the EA's the Four Peaks + Southern Traverse should sort your head space out.

It's quite simple tho, get to the base of the direct ascent route, start climbing& see how you feel - if you get out of your comfort zone then simply turn back before you become over committed. Quite easy to reverse most of the face as it is more a series of ledges than any vertical 'climbing' as such. Again, if in doubt just turn around!

It's a great summit but it's not the be all & end all of this magnificent area, just enjoy the place for what it is - wild, remote & very beautiful

[mjdalessa]

On thesarvo they show a route up Geryon North from Geryon campsite, if you included this it could shorten the circuit and make it more interesting. It shows you go up the scree and there is a route towards north one way, one towards south the other. North does not get a grade from here but south gets a four. Can anyone varify that this actually exists? I had never heard of it until I saw it on there.

[Azza]

On thesarvo they show a route up Geryon North from Geryon campsite, if you included this it could shorten the circuit and make it more interesting. It shows you go up the scree and there is a route towards north one way, one towards south the other. North does not get a grade from here but south gets a four. Can anyone varify that this actually exists? I had never heard of it until I saw it on there.

Actually I think your a bit confused? the topo shows you can abseil 50m down from in between the foresight and G South to a scree slope as an escape route to get off the traverse.

The normal route up G North isn't show its actually off the left hand side of the topo.. the 'hard' bit is just a scramble up a gully.

As far as I am aware there is no established walking route linking north and south..

[mjdalessa]

"North Peak Normal Route
From the Cephissus scree chute traverse N below the cliffs of the South Peak. From near the foot of the Foresight descend a large gully and continue N under the cliffs of the North Peak to a scree gully. From the top of this go S along the level ridge and down to a saddle. Scramble up S to the N summit of the peak."

This is what I'm talking about...

[Azza]

Fair enough!

I doubt it would be cairned. You'd be better off asking on thesarvo, you might as well ask the guys who wrote the guide!

[mjdalessa]

Yeah, good point. Sounds like it could be fun seeing as no one on here seems to have done it!

Questions posted on thesarvo, don't think they have a private messaging system though?

Last edited by mjdalessa on Sun 18 Sep, 2011 5:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

[tas-man]

Check out the comments and photos in this thread - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1512
and near the end there is a highly detailed aerial photo with a marked up indication of the route. Enjoy!