Mt. Thetis

[Trapper]

Attempted to climb Mt. Thetis last week. Magnificent night's camping in the saddle between Ossa and Paddy's Nut, but woke to winds and low cloud. We started our climb comfortably enough up onto the first ridge and then started the boulder clambering up the fallen dolerite columns. We were able to follow some cairns for a short while but found they came to a stop. (Or at least we could not find any more.) So we continued to boulder hop our way onwards and upwards for quite a way. But then winds increased to 30 knots + and cloud came in leaving us in total clag with visability down to zilch. Not having cairns to follow and the fact we could not see far enough ahead to plan a path, (plus we would not be able to see anything even if we did get there) we decided discretion was the better part of valour, and retreated leaving this peak and Archilles for another time. Question - is there a cairned route to the top, or is it find your own way up the boulders?

Trapper

[ollster]

Question - is there a cairned route to the top, or is it find your own way up the boulders?

Trapper

No there is no fully cairned route as far as I'm aware. When "we" went up there (2009), I don't recall seeing any cairns at all. We just navigated by sight mostly with map/compass/GPS when necessary.

[stu]

I do remember seeing some cairns early on in the climb Oll, just past the saddle with paddys Nut, but this was probably just 'indicative cairning' showing you the start of the ascent & a general direction; you'll find these more remote & less frequented routes less & less cairned, as they should be. As oll said, GPS, map &/or compass is the norm, if you don't have a GPS then best to wait out the bad weather or go ack with a GPS, map & compass. You'd want to be sure of your direction across the top of Thetis as the boulders just keep getting bigger towards the drop off to Leonards Tarn, as we found out. Worth going back to try again tho Trapper, it's a magnificent area & worthy of it's less cairned / frequented remoteness

Stu.

[whynotwalk]

Mt Thetis from above the saddle camp

Ascending Mt Thetis through the boulder field

Yep - I'd agree with ollster. We were up there just over a year ago, and while there was the occasional cairn, they were neither continuous nor particularly useful.

I've attached two photos. We went "up the guts" through the boulder field. You can see two of us (as blue dots) heading towards the shallow "V" in the middle of the 2nd pic. It wasn't hard, just a little tedious.

On the descent we tried a higher level route, down the obvious (bumpy) ridge on the left of the 1st pic. This was no easier, but a bit more "fun" as there were a few drops to scramble down. They would be harder going up.

cheers

Peter

PS - I'm afraid our weather was perfect

Last edited by whynotwalk on Mon 04 Apr, 2011 4:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

[ollster]

the boulders just keep getting bigger towards the drop off to Leonards Tarn, as we found out.

Totally massive boulders. Just about the biggest I've seen. There was an area where the boulders were so big you could fit normally-huge boulders in the gaps between them.

[Trapper]

Thanks for those replies. It is as expected. We certainly will be returning as it is such a beautiful place. The way you came down Peter is the way we were heading up. It was the exposure on that ridge that eventually turned us around, even though we were close. Boulders reminded me of Pelion West. Next time we'll try to choose better weather and head "up the guts".

Trapper

P.S. Great pics. The second ones really puts things into perspective.

[whynotwalk]

Yeah - the weather was certainly in our favour. I've attached one from the summit, just to really rub it in

I totally agree about Pelion West. Those would have to be the biggest boulders I've ever seen. They're literally garage sized, and the effort from the "false summit" atop PW to the actual summit is considerable. In comparison, Thetis is a doddle,

cheers

Peter

lunch on the summit plateau, Mt Thetis

[ollster]

Yeah - the weather was certainly in our favour. I've attached one from the summit, just to really rub it in

I found the little grassy plateau a bit of a surprise. Would love to high-camp up there, it's gorgeous.

[whynotwalk]

Yup - high camping in weather like that would be amazing. Mind you, I wouldn't wanna have to heft a full pack up that boulder field!

A day pack with a stove, food & bivvy-bag (or similar) would be brilliant!

cheers

Peter

[ollster]

Yup - high camping in weather like that would be amazing. Mind you, I wouldn't wanna have to heft a full pack up that boulder field!

"it's fun, you should try it!"...