Bushwalk Australia

The direction of the Up New River thread has reminded me of this query. In the Denney King story there is often reference to Denney taking people out and dropping them off at teh Old and North Rivers without any notes about where they were going from there. So where were people going? There is not a lot of reference to collecting people later, so were their wanders one way out to somewhere? I assume this would have been before the Scott's Peak access road and maybe prior to Maydenna being set up???

The route up the Old River valley was one of the original approaches to Federation Peak & surrounding area (via Gorilla Ridge);
I guess they would have continued out from there to one of the various exits.
See Kevin Dorans fantastic book 'Federation Peak - Australias Adventure Peak' for details on the Old River route.

Probably not many people would follow this route, but north via Mt Norold parties have continued on to the Western Arthurs (mentioned in Chapmans South West Tas guide).

The Old River was used as an alternative approach route to Federation, particularly in the years prior to the establishment of the Farmhouse Creek track. Getting Deny's assistance to cross Bathurst Harbour saved the hassle of negotiating the scungy valley around Ray River. Coming the other way, you had no choice but to walk all the way to Melaleuca. This route still gets occasional use. About a year ago I posted on the Packrafting forum a rambling recollection of my use of this route back in (I think) January 1982. I'll see if I can dig it out and whack it up here in case anyone's intersted.

J.

By 1980 the more prominent and accessible rivers in Tasmania had been paddled. Dean and friends had bagged the Franklin in the 50s. Truchanas triumphed and then sadly perished on the Gordon in the 60s. According to The South West Book (1979: ACF), Helen Gee and party scored the Jane in 1976, and Emery's party rode out the Denison as early as 1975. These journeys represented a new wave of exploration and recreation, distinct from the upstream exploration of the earlier pining era.

My first river journey was the Franklin in January of 1981 in a one-person duckie. I started at 15 years of age in a group of 6 boys all 18 or under, none of whom had paddled a river before. In hindsight it was crazy. It's a very dangerous journey requiring paddling skills and experience, of which we had virtually none! Although inexperienced, we enjoyed a successful trip, and I repeated the Franklin the following summer as an experienced paddler of 16 years old, again with a few mates all aged under 20. This was during the lead-up to the biggest conservation battle to date in Australia, the fight to prevent the damming of the Franklin and Gordon Rivers. In the early 1980s as the numbers of people paddling rivers exploded, there was a mini-frenzy of new-routing, and I became aware that others were bagging the Crossing/Davey, Andrew and other minor rivers. I decided I wanted a "first descent" too, and settled on the Old River as an achievable objective for a first. I persuaded Robert Daniels, now of Copenhagen, but still active in our Tassie wilderness, and Jim and Bruce Taylor to accompany me on a first descent of the Old. Although our leadership style was cooperative, it was basically my plan. I was 17 and we ranged up to 18.

The precedent for smaller river travel had been established by Helen Gee’s party on the Jane in 1976. Lilos, rucsacs on backs, hand paddling (1979: ACF; p170). We planned for a twelve day journey down the Old, starting and finishing at Scott’s Peak. Our gear had more in common with the primitive equipment of the 1960s than with the gear we enjoy today. I had an H-frame Mountain Mule rucsac from New Zealand, a brute, like a brick wall with shoulder straps. Rob and I shared a Paddy Pallin Japara tent. Our clothes were woollen. Not luxurious Icebreaker stuff, but itchy stuff that would matt into misshapen lumps when wet. Dehyde meals were primitive, and we used to eke out dry rations that use more fuel than today’s best outdoor foods. Although we carried an Optimus Choofer, we also had the fall-back of occasional camp fires! I think our maps were the old green 1: 100,000 series with 40 metre contours. Navigation was very imprecise!

We were young and soft, and moved a lot slower than we do now. Our approach? Across the Arthur Plains and a traverse of the Eastern Arthurs via Luckman’s Lead. Although just a pup, I’d been through that way before, having done a 28 day SW walk the summer before as a boy of 15, with three older lads of 17. I recall that the weather was constantly cold, wet and blustery on our Old River trip, typical south-west summer weather! We chickened out on the summit block of Federation because of poor weather. I’d bagged it 12 months earlier, and the other blokes have been back since.

I can remember some camp-sites, but not all. I don’t know where we frittered all the days away, but I can remember a few quite vividly. We climbed over Geeves Bluff, and dropped down to the small plateau a third of the way down the infamous Gorilla Ridge, where we spent a shocker of a night. Rob and I had our A-frame Paddy Pallin Japara tent pitched tight as a drum to withstand the storm, and I remember lying and watching the rain being forced through the single thin woven fabric wall by the force of the wind. The Taylor boys’ tent collapsed on them that night. We picked up Olegas Truchanas’ axe blazes the next day, which eventually brought us down to the Old River valley, whereupon we eagerly advanced to the river’s edge. What a disappointment! The river was completely choked with logs! There was an impassable jam about every 20-30 metres! We pushed on downstream adjacent to the river, and traversed Gorge Ridge, eventually putting in on the lower Collins River at the far end of Gorge Ridge. We had observed from the slopes of Gorge Ridge that the Old had become quite negotiable by the time it reached Gorge Ridge, and would plan to put in upstream of Gorge Ridge in future.

So how was the Old? We missed paddles. They would have been handy. The river was quite sweet, a bit like the Crossing, some easy rapids, and mostly clear of forest on the flanks. How long do you get on the water? About one day only! We left the river near its mouth and walked around Bathurst Harbour to the Ray River. We hoped this part of the journey would be straight-forward, but for us, it was a shocker. Constant gale-force winds compelled us to attempt an inland crossing of the Ray, which we found to be a tangled jungle-infested delta of fast-flowing streams under killer sieves. We had a nightmare time crossing the Ray River, and spent a leech-infested rainy night in the most uncomfortable site I’d experienced to date. Leeches were everywhere. I woke up during a fitful sleep with one latched onto both lips. Rob got one in his eye. He migrated to Europe shortly after, and for many years I addressed letters to him in London to “Ray River” as a cruel reminder of the time we spent there.

We eventually forced our way through the then untracked Moulters Gap and walked in to Melaleuca from the east. As we approached Melaleuca on one of those days when stinging squalls are separated by shafts of inspirational slanting sunbeams, a figure approached to meet us half way across the final button grass plain. It was Deny King. He said he had downed tools and came out to meet us because in all his life there he’d never seen a party of walkers approach from that direction before. He was genuinely curious about where we’d come from and how we’d found the going. He shared a few stories about his own forays across Bathurst Harbour. Deny also remembered me from our first meeting the summer before, when I’d walked in from Cockle Creek. Although I was just a young boy in awe of this living legend, he was very respectful and interested in our humble recreational efforts. He was such a kind host to us, particularly on this second visit to Melaleuca. We had spent far too long fighting our way down the Old and around the Ray, and were quite low on food. Deny gave us wonderful fresh bread he’d baked, loaded with strawberry jam, made from his Melaleuca strawberries. Deny kindly ferried us on his boat to Bathurst Narrows the next morning, to commence our journey back to Scott’s Peak.

Some years later Deny died, and I reflect now upon how lucky we were to experience the hospitality of this most intelligent, independent, solitary, and yet intensely empathic and sociable man. A truly great Australian.

Our return to Scott’s Peak was far from straight-forward, as the rain lashed us from Spring River to the Crossing. The Crossing was far too dangerous to cross, even with lilos, and we were forced to camp on the button grass tussocks about 100m back from the riverine forest and regular flood line. Eventually we walked out to Scott’s Peak on day sixteen of twelve, with little food remaining. These days we would do it faster, stronger, more purposefully, better equipped, yet those formative trips served a valuable purpose for me, and I’m still hooked on our Tasmanian wild rivers.

Fantastic read - you certainly got the hardcore adventurous spirit early on. How did you ever get the OK to do it from your parents?

Thanks. I don't think my parents quite understood the seriousness of our adventures. Besides, there was the risk that if we stayed home for the summer, we might encounter the dangers of... girls!

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jmac wrote:These days we would do it faster, stronger, more purposefully, better equipped,

I seriously wonder at whether I would have enjoyed bushwalking in those days of heavy food, A frame tents and H frame packs.
I probably would have, but it is stories like this that I enjoy reading, for I often reflect on what it would have been like to be the first to explore / pass through certain areas.
This story is right up there with a book I have, "Shooting the Franklin", a worthy read.

jmac Thank You for an enjoyable read.

Great stuff jmac, any more stories..... It's nearly as good as being out there.

ff

What a fantastic read jmac, Thank you so much for sharing.
My Grandfather knew Denny King well, he would regularly stop off at melaleuca when fishing around the south coast. My Grandfather was also an accomplished bushwalker. You've now got me interested enough to see if he can tell me some stories about Denny & Bushwalking in Tasmania in the 60s & 70s

bcshort wrote: You've now got me interested enough to see if he can tell me some stories about Denny & Bushwalking in Tasmania in the 60s & 70s

If he does, you should record them!
At least document them, maybe share them?

tasadam wrote:

bcshort wrote: You've now got me interested enough to see if he can tell me some stories about Denny & Bushwalking in Tasmania in the 60s & 70s

If he does, you should record them!
At least document them, maybe share them?

Definately. this stuff is gold, true pioneers. I'm gathering info from some old trappers who would spend 3-6 months at a time in the wilds, killing stuff we're now trying to save, but.......
Thanks, jmac.

I'm glad you all enjoyed my little tale, which is trivial compared to the serious histories of the Southwest that bcshort and stepbystep mention. I've got a head full of personal stories from virtually every significant Tassie wild river and almost every mountain range. I sometimes wonder if there would be enough demand to publish a little book of wilderness stories, reflections and photos. I just need to jot them down. They would include the Blockade and my injury on the New. There are a lot of walkers who've done similar stuff to me over the years, with the only point of difference perhaps being my focus on rivers rather than mountains. But life's busy. Give me time; my scrub-mate and I ain't done yet. We are hoping to write a few fresh hard tales over the next few years.

J.

i sometimes wonder if there would be enough demand to publish a little book of wilderness stories, reflections and photos

Lets know the release date and I'll send in my order.
I'm sure a book of that type would sell quite a few.

ff

I'd buy it!

Forget a book, I'm thinking a documentary
You want to re-create your trip down the New

What, broken ribs 'n all.
ff

flyfisher wrote:What, broken ribs 'n all.
ff

of course, it'd make great TV - Survivor SW Tassie
I know (of) someone that only made 10 days....

of course, it'd make great TV - Survivor SW Tassie
I know someone that only made 10 days....

HAHAHA
Gold

How long do you reckon Bear Grylls would last in SW tassie? I'd watch that. Esp if he ate some raw animal

My son's a great fan of Man vs Wild.

I noted that Bear Grylls great rule would most likely fail in SW Tas - to always follow a river - because they always lead to civilisation!!

I often wonder how Bear Grylls would go in SW Tassie too, perhaps we should invite him here!

Bear would have a ball down there...eating all the wildlife

If you watch Bear Grylls show closely, you'll see the occasional clue that it's not really in the wilderness - telephone poles in the background etc.
Also he sometimes seems to acquire gear that he didn't have earlier in the show. I think the south west is probably not the sort of place for his show.

JamesMc

Thanks for that story jmac, I really enjoyed it.
I am not sure too many 15 year olds get to go on adventures like that any more. Society is much more protective and at the same time critical of any seemingly outlandish under-resourced adventure.
35+ years back my mates and I used do a lot of trips in the Blue Mountains mostly rock climbing. On one occasion, (age 14 and heavily armed with a laid nylon rope, a pair of Volleys,a few pitons, some hero tape, some ball races and new fangled 6 sided aluminium bar with holes in it), as I went off to catch the train, I distinctly remember my mother telling me 'have a nice trip dear and dont get killed'. Sound advice really
bw

You've got a cool mum BW. Keep challenging yourself!

Thanks,

JMac

I met Denny 3 times whilst walking through Melaleuca.
He was a gentle, honest man who would always warmly greet visitors and give you any spare fruit or vegies he had.
We repaired his wind generator on one occassion.

He told us that he used to take his boat up the North River and then head north over the scrubby range and Western Arthurs to reach Maydena, in the days before the airstrip, this was much faster than the Port Davey track.

Apparently he blazed a track over the scrubby range south of Crossing river.

In 2006 we walked north from Mt Norold to Lake Cygnus, but didn't find any traces of blazes.
We believe we walked too far west.
We took 2 10hr days to cross the scrubby range - a real scrub bash fest. Very lucky to find somewhere to camp with water on top of the range.
I have been informed by friends which ridge he might have blazed up - something to try next time we are in the area.

Kevin

A friend of mine walked the track once - I think it went up to Lake Oberon or Square Lake. This would have been back in the 80's.

Dave

wander wrote:In the Deny King story there is often reference to Deny taking people out and dropping them off at the Old and North Rivers without any notes about where they were going from there. So where were people going? There is not a lot of reference to collecting people later, so were their wanders one way out to somewhere? I assume this would have been before the Scott's Peak access road and maybe prior to Maydenna being set up???

jmac wrote:The Old River was used as an alternative approach route to Federation, particularly in the years prior to the establishment of the Farmhouse Creek track. Getting Deny's assistance to cross Bathurst Harbour saved the hassle of negotiating the scungy valley around Ray River. Coming the other way, you had no choice but to walk all the way to Melaleuca. <snip> jmac

In sorting out files for the LWC's next two DVDs that will be released at our next "Do You Know Tasmania" show in October, I found some screen shots from the 1975 movie "Two Routes to Federation" that will be one of the films to be included. Here are a few that cover the first section - a trip to Federation via the Old River, which included sailing in Deny King's boat from Melaleuca.