new to south coast walk 5-11/3/2011

[tsailml]

hi guys/gals,
three of us have booked flights to tassie arriving 5/3 to lanceston and returning back to launceston to meet other friends on 11/3.
we did the kokoda track a few months ago with porters and wanted to try out the south coast tracks as highly recommended by other people. however one of my friends seems reluctant due to the lack of experience of us on orienteering and the uncertainty of emergency/medical assistance if required if something should go wrong otr we get lost (although i am a medical doctor but tend to over prepare on trips), so he is leaning towards joining an organised tour for cradle mountains.
someone recommended chartered flight to melaleuka and arrange a shuttle to pick up from cockle creek over a 6 day walk, although it would be good if that can be done in a short period of days as we are all young fit 30 year olds. i have not heard back from tas air about flying from launceston or hobart. does anyone have information on flights or other alternative option or shuttle informations about getting to south coast walk from launceston and pick ups from south coast walk? does anyone know other people going during this period and we share interesting stories and experiences. i know there is still alot to organise including going to mountain desgin again to top up our gear changing from kokoda to tasmania condition, but i am hoping there will be eoungh feed back/suggestions from people to convince my friends that we can take on the south walk tracks ourselves rather than rely on the comforts of organised tours everytime.
steven

[Nuts]

Hi Steven, While relatively easily done (well marked and especially with the fitness you mention), its not really the best way to plan for the South Coast. Six days will all be full days walking and with any delays at the river crossings the pressure will be on. If you dont have a couple of extra days on that itinerary to be flexible with plans I would suggest something shorter? I can also think of other tracks more appropriate for first time extended walks (especially un-assisted), the South Coast is remote, most of the days will be pretty exhausting with that time frame.

Cambridge airport (Hobart) is the usually starting point for flights to Melaleuca (the usual start of the walk), you may be able to arrange a quick flight Launceston to Hobart to meet up with them. Keep in mind that if the weather is rough there are no guarantees you will be able to leave on the day scheduled.

Several of the companies listed for the Overland Track also do guided walks on the South Coast (or the Overland Track may be another possibility given your time frame?)

http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/index.aspx?base=7827#6

[ILUVSWTAS]

I kind of agree with what Nuts was saying, except I think 6 days is heaps. I've done it in 4 days twice and that was without really pushing myself too hard.
If your fit and in your 30's you should be fine.

There will be heaps of peopla along the track, so you wont have the feeling of remoteness you may expect, also maybe hire a PLB to make your unsure friend feel better??

[Liamy77]

you can get PLBs from service tas (link below) for $40 / week (might pay to call and book it soon as you can)- not sure how many they have...
http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/index.aspx?id=7364

[Nuts]

Well.... I guess that means ILSWT doesnt agree then

I'm sure even he would ask if you intend to spend long days at a trot?

I think the average human however would see the 'usual' itinerary (say 7 days with a couple of spares) more as an adventurous holiday experience than a mission.
Even by the usual method the Ironbounds and SC Range with an average pack and average fitness arent going to be exactly relaxing.
You will be up to (and down from) 1000m asl and your waist in mud... A plb is not going to make anything physically easier, no matter the perceived safety they provide!

C'mon, someone else read Steves post... and help us out here

[Liamy77]

why not do a couple of 2 or 3 day walks? say Mt Anne and Mt Rufus/ Lake St Clair if worried about time available?

[ILUVSWTAS]

Fair points Nuts.
They sound like strong walkers though..??

[norts]

Does he want to enjoy ythe walk or just hammer on through.
Denny King did it in 2 days.
If never having done an extended unsupported walk I would suggest that the OT would be a better starting point.
If you do the OT and your gear(ie tent) isnt quite up to Tassie weather then you do have huts to fall back on. Admittedly most of the SCT campsites are fairly well protected.
I would never recommend the SCT to someone who hasnt done any multi day walking in Tassie before.
I think of the OT as the starting point for multi day walks and the SCT the next step up.

I did the SCt about 6 years ago and also did Prion Beach to Cockle 2 weeks ago.
The mud on the South Cape Range mud reminds me of the OT back in the 70's
Roger

[Liamy77]

Does he want to enjoy ythe walk or just hammer on through......
The mud on the South Cape Range mud reminds me of the OT back in the 70's
Roger

ie: bring a snorkel?..... i was too young in the 70s.... but i remember before all the duck boarding went in.....

[AndyP]

I'm with Nuts on this one. You could do the South Coast Track in 6 days, but it would be a rush. I hear that the Kokoda track is gruelling, but as you did it with porters you may find walking the SCT with a 20kg pack a bit of a step up. River and creek crossings can cause delays. While there is a bus service that runs from Cockle Creek to Hobart, in March it only runs Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
On the other hand, navigation and fellowship shouldn't be a problem - its a very well used track.

[tsailml]

Thx guys/gals for ur suggestions, it looks like we might do the SCT after all hopefully with good weather condition for us to fly into melaleuka. someone mentioned about notifying tas air in advance about carrying separate fuel, what does that mean?
one of the guys have been down to mountain design store and obtained the following information, any thoughts from your own experience or additional equipment for SCT? Mountain Design have given me the following pricing including discount of around 25-40% on products

1 man Tent - Very light $299, Jet boil $120 /3 $40each, 70L lightweight back pack $210, Food $210, Gortex Jacket $250
Flight $190, Approximate total so far is $1200. Still haven't included any Waterproof trousers (Waste of time??)thermals, plate/cutlery, head lamps, Gas bottles, expensive tequila!

Since the Kokoda track, all three of us have been doing our own preparations; one did the Inca trial carrying own pack, one is boot camping 5.30 every morning, and i'm doing spit to manly return 3 times a wk about 20km. there are also talks of kilimanjaro, or even mt everest at some stage. something about mid life crisis that make people do things to ourselves. I think we will go semi-hard on the SCT and leave the R & R when we return to Launceston when we meet up with the other friends. how would a 4 day track work? obviously that will give us a couple of days on either side in case we run into trouble.
Your information has been very helpful so far and much appreciated.

[ILUVSWTAS]

Thx guys/gals for ur suggestions, it looks like we might do the SCT after all hopefully with good weather condition for us to fly into melaleuka. someone mentioned about notifying tas air in advance about carrying separate fuel, what does that mean?

You are not allowed to fly with Fuel (yeh i know, how do the airlines get it in there...) They make you buy it at Melaleuca. Let the airline know what type you want and how much, then you pay for it when you check in. Once landed in Melaleuca, the pilot will get you your fuel.

[wello]

My partner and I walked the SCT aronud new years 2006/7 and took six days. She possibly has similar experience as a walker, ie early 30's, generally fit, but not a lot of bushwalking experience (had done OLT before though). We completed the walk in six days, starting at Cockle Creek. We had absolutely perfect weather, not needing to get out the rain gear at all. I also did climb the New Harbour Range as a short side trip within the six days (top little peak that!).

Four days would be possible, but you'd really have to make use of all the available daylight, which would be starting to reduce at that time of year. Knowing a few of the intermediate campsites would also help. Many of these are described in John Chapman's South West book, but are not shown on maps. Fast walking is quite easy in some sections (eg, Melaleuca to Cox Bight and Couth Cape Bay to Cockle Creek). Make the most of these, because it will probably be quite hard to walk through muddy sections at pace. The eastern side of the Ironbounds and most of the South Cape Range are the worst for mud.

Possible 4 day itinerary

Day 1. Melaleuca to at least Buoy Creek, ideally Louisa Creek (very nice campsite).
Day 2. Ironbound high camp (it would have to be good weather to use this) or on to Little Deadman's Bay. Big Day.
Day 3. Surprise Bay or Granite Beach. Surprise Bay is the better campsite.
Day 4. Cross the south cape range and exit to Cockle Creek.

While possible, this looks pretty hard. The SCT was a very enjoyable walk, partly because most of the campsites are costal and you can have a look round an interesting beach after the day's walking. A lot of that relaxing time wouldn't exist on a four day schedule, and would take a lot of the fun out in my view.

Wello

[Pteropus]

Hi Steven. Five friends and I are also doing the South Coast track in early March. This will be our first South Coast Tassie bushwalk. We are flying into Hobart March 1, flying to Melaleuca on the arvo of March 2, staying there the night and beginning the hike on March 3. We have spent at least four months planning and preparing. I have used the notes from John Chapman’s book to work out timings. Originally we planned to do it in 6 days but have decided to do it in 7 and have factored in 3 extra days to account for flooded creeks or inclement weather. Though we are all fit, have been training quite a bit and most of us are fairly experienced in the bush, the decision to change it to 7 days was made on advice from people who have walked it before. We want some flexibility in our walk and have now put in two relatively short days into our itinerary. We also want to be able to relax and enjoy our walk.

Like my friends and I, if you have never done it before, all you can do is prepare by reading, asking advice from people who know (as you just have ), trust your abilities and just be prepared. Anyhow, I might just see you out there!

[Nuts]

Hey, It would be interesting to hear back from you guys when the walk is done. Thoughts about time planned for, time taken and then what you would suggest for others armed with the experience..
All the Best

[tsailml]

"We have spent at least four months planning and preparing. I have used the notes from John Chapman’s book to work out timings. Originally we planned to do it in 6 days but have decided to do it in 7 and have factored in 3 extra days to account for flooded creeks or inclement weather. "

Four months planning, that is fantastic and definitely the way to prepare for any trip. U would happen to have a one page summary that you can email to locum88 [at] yahoo.com.au, would you?

Thx guys for ur suggestions/advice so far,
We have changed our flights to fly to habart on 5/3 morning then the tas air flight to melaleuka to start walking rather then spend half a day in the car from launie to hobart. This will give us more time to acttually enjoy on the track rather than power through it as we expected with the kokoda track. The description and picture of the SCT looks fantastic, and I am starting to look forward to it, minus the potential wet weather/mud and food taken out by wild life at night. Hope the meet some of you out there and catch up for a beer or two later in Hobart. Will be time to go shopping next week to prepare for the trip.
Steven

[Pteropus]

Four months planning, that is fantastic and definitely the way to prepare for any trip. U would happen to have a one page summary that you can email to locum88 [at] yahoo.com.au, would you?

No worries, done.

[tsailml]

I have read a few threads and stories of satellite phone(how great it was for rescuing when needed) and PLBs but still wondering what did most people use for the SCT? I am thinking of PLBs myself, it makes sense to get one for the 3 of us who we will be together and sticking to the tracks as described in John Chapmans book. However, we might be getting a satellite phone and 3 PLBs for each individual, do you need both?

[frenchy_84]

seems like over kill to me. If your sticking together 1 PLB would do.

[ollster]

seems like over kill to me. If your sticking together 1 PLB would do.

Sorry, was this the SCT or an ascent of Everest?

[ILUVSWTAS]

seems like over kill to me. If your sticking together 1 PLB would do.

Sorry, was this the SCT or an ascent of Everest?

I dunno, the mud can be pretty deep!!

[ollster]

I dunno, the mud can be pretty deep!!

Do sat phones work under mud?

[Vern]

Good choice to lengthen the trip. It's better to spend some time at the campsites than just power through. Plus it allows for poor weather which could delay flights or see the rivers swell up. Did this trip about 2 years ago over 7 days and it was great. My recommendations are:

Good gators - the mud can be thick!
Walking pole - great on the decent of the Iron Bounds (I only used one)
1 x PLB - The track's not that hard but someone could get sick which I would say account for most of the SCT rescues
Use Deadmans Bay Campsite - Great to get the fire going as there's not many campsites that allow for it
Hand line - pretty easy to catch some fish along the way and have a fresh meal. Nice in the coals of a fire!

Enjoy the trip! My photo's are here if you're interested...http://www.flickr.com/photos/taspicsvns ... 317166569/

[mountnman]

Thx guys/gals for ur suggestions, it looks like we might do the SCT after all hopefully with good weather condition for us to fly into melaleuka. someone mentioned about notifying tas air in advance about carrying separate fuel, what does that mean?

You are not allowed to fly with Fuel (yeh i know, how do the airlines get it in there...) They make you buy it at Melaleuca. Let the airline know what type you want and how much, then you pay for it when you check in. Once landed in Melaleuca, the pilot will get you your fuel.

Off topic here, but only certain pilots can fly with dangerous goods (ie. flammable fuel) once they have a dangerous goods certificate. This means your more likely low hour fresh CPL pilot won't have the required licence.

Back on topic - Enjoy the walk!!!

[tasadam]

IMO one PLB would be enough, or possibly 2 if you have them and you see yourselves becoming separated.
A sat phone might be useful if you want weather updates, but not really needed.
I was the ground support for a walk of 9 days by 3 people, they called me for weather updates every couple of days.
I was supposed to be on the walk, but my knee stuffed up a week before the walk. So I did it a year later. It's a great walk. The side trip to Osmiridium Beach is worth it for a look, beautiful beach.

Re the fuel, I believe all the fuel at Melaleuca is brought in by boat. Doesn't matter, I reckon you'll find no pilot will fly you and your fuel in on the same plane even if they had a dangerous cargo ticket. (No I don't know for sure, but I've seen a fair bit of red tape in my time)...

[tsailml]

walked the spit to manly today with half pack on and will be doing a return trip of 22km tomorrow with a full 25kg. i think its best to train harder with a week to recover before the trip.
the descend on ironbound sounds as hard as any day on the kokoda track, what are your experiences with walking poles, 1 or 2? how do they rate against with mud?

[frenchy_84]

you did say your in your 30s not 70s? i was under the impression that walking poles are only for elderly people and Germans.

individual PLB's and sat phone, walking poles, training... i think someone may have led you on about how challenging the SCT is. if your a group of fit adults with previous walking experience you will be ok.

[Pteropus]

I used to think poles were a bit of a waste too but after seeing how useful they were for someone descending a very steep and muddy track I bought my first pair late last year. Now I wouldn’t go without them (oh, and I am only 34). They definitely help with balance.

As far as training is concerned, I guess that is a personal preference. In the end it doesn’t hurt to train if you can get some training in. And at least you won’t get a shock when you put in that first few hours in the bush with full pack weight. I myself keep reasonably fit anyhow but haven’t been able to get out for some multi-day hikes in a while, so my body may not have been so used to the pack weight I will be carrying. So I have put in a few hours each week with varying pack loads on our local hill, Mt Coot-tha, just to the west of Brisbane. I encouraged my mates to come, two have come regularly, while the other three came a handful of times and decided training wasn’t for them. I will be interested to see how my party of friends go over the seven days. I may even post about whether it was worth training or not when I get back!

My friends and I leave for Hobart tomorrow, fly to Melaleuca on Wednesday and start walking on Thurday...the weather forecast for the week is strong blustery cold winds!!

[srforum112]

I just returned from walking the SCT. Funny you say that the ironbound descend is as hard as the Kokoda track, as we met a party of three on the walk that said the descent was Kokoda for nine days! The descent was hard.... lots of mud, tree roots and trees you have to get over, under or around with a heavy pack. I used one walking pole, it was invaluable! I took note of one walker, in his twenties and a tour guide on the OLT who used two walking poles.

I thoroughly enjoyed the walk. We had planned for eight days but walked out in seven as a weather front came through on our last day. We walked from Louisa Creek to Deadman's Bay in one day, don't recommend it as we walked for 10 hours and its up and over the Ironbounds (about 19km). Not sure why we decided to do this, we were up early and the weather was really good.

This gave us the opportunity to have a rest day at Osmiridian Beach, great spot with a rope hammock in the campsite.

The benefit of taking more time on the track was the opportunity to enjoy the beaches and to see wildlife you don't see anywhere else. First night a we saw a wombat on the beach that wandered past our campsite, next day we saw a platypus in Louisa Creek, then at Osmiridian beach there was a sea lion on the beach enjoying the sunshine (and very annoyed we stopped to have a look at him). Then there's the views, exploring the beaches, swimming and just sitting and watching the water.

Gear that you need. Gaiters are a must for the mud and snakes that you may encounter. A PLB due to the remoteness. A tarp (we had a sea to summit tarp) for the campsite. Makes the evenings much more comfortable in drizzly or rainy weather. Good wet weather gear and warm clothes (wool/down/fleece) and lots of dry bags to keep everything dry.

We didn't experience any issues with animals raiding our packs for food. But we were careful to pack all our food away and not have any food left out around the camp.

Great walk, enjoy it over the four days if thats your plan. I certainly enjoyed having the extra time to enjoy the walk and the stops along the way.

Sonja

[Vern]

I'd recommend one pole for this track. Keep one hand free to grab on to roots and things to stabalize on the descent and the other hand for the pole to soften the landing.

I too thought poles were for oldies but I can definately see the value in it. It helps reduce the shock on deep downward steps (The ironbounds descent), keeps your posture more upright, helps you work out the consistancy of the mud before your foot commits to the step, and reduces the pack load on the knees.

For some of the track I had mine attached to the pack as it's not much good in scrub. On down hill sections extend the pole and on uphill sections shorten the pole. My brother used my other pole on the last trip and he is also converted.

As far as fitness training I'd recommend along with most to do short walks with the pack on. Otherwise lunges with good posture, squats etc. Something working those leg muscles. Try not to use gym machines as they will target specific muscles. Free weights help develop the stabalising muscles you'll need on uneven terrain.

As far as cardio goes, nothing beats jogging 2-3 days a week I recon. However, saying all that I saw some very unfit people complete this walk carrying packs weighing 30kg! Crazy I know. In fact one day I caught a fish to cook it up and they came over and offered me one of their lemons to have with it.