Federation Climb

[under10kg]

Hi guys,

I have seen the photos of the climb at federation and it seems pretty hard.
Is it the exposure that is the big issue or the technical aspect of the climb?
Years ago I did a bit of rockclimbing plus some scrambling at Mt Barney.
I plan a trip in January so assuming a fine day.....

Thanks
Under 15 kg

[Son of a Beach]

It really is just he exposure (I reckon). There were two somewhat tricky bits that I remember, but nothing that I would call technical rock climbing. One spot was trying to sidle around/under an awkward rock without much to hold on to, and the other was sidling along the middle of a cliff face with a good (~15cm?) shelf for the feet and a good (~10cm?) shelf for the hands. In both cases, the scary thing was that if you slipped up, there was nothing below but the cliff face fading into the fog.

I remember being exceedingly nervous about the climb before the first time I went up, after having heard how difficult it was. With such expectations, I found it to be a LOT easier than I'd expected. Both times I've climbed it, it was in fog and I could see nothing. When talking to people afterwards, they told me that is why I found it easier.

Having said that, it is NOT easy, by any stretch of the imagination, however, it is physically and technically easier to climb the peak itself without a full pack than to climb the mud cliffs of Moss Ridge or Mt Capricorn with a full pack.

[DaveNoble]

There are two "easy" ways up the peak - the Direct Ascent - the way most people would go and the Climbing Gully - the original route.

The Direct Ascent is best approached from Hanging Lake and Thwaites Plateau side - a large cairn on the wouthern traverse marks the start - then you need to look out for cairns that wander up the south east face. It is very easy to loose the correct way up - I have gone wrong numerous times - and i have been up that route quite a few times. So keep your eyes open for the cairns. The route goes up a series of ledges and waders a bit. The tricky part is the last part - up a steep sloping crack - then right onto a ledge - then an exposed move over onto easy ground. Then the route goes more up the south side of the peak, past a pinnacle or two - all easy going. You may be apprehensive about going back down the same way - but it is not too hard - you get the tricky bit over first. The rock is very good and there are good handholds. But it would be best to have fine weather and no strong winds. I can remember one trip - where we took a small radio and heard that a front was coming over late that night and the next day would be bad- so we left for the peak around 6pm from Hanging Lake and had great views. The next day the weather had crapped out.....

The Original Route - the climbing gully - can be approached from Bechavaise Plateau, or further around on the Southern Traverse from Hanging Lake (just after a steep tricky chimney - notch). It is not as exposed as the Direct Ascent route - but is technically harder (perhaps grade 8 ?, where the direct ascent would be about grade 4 - 5 ?). I have only been up that way once - we solo'd up (ie no ropes) - but i went down via the Direct Ascent on that trip.

I would think that a lot of the people who make it up to say Thwaites Plateau do not reach the summit - perhaps less than 50% do? Due to the weather, the exposure and the route finding. But it is a very nice peak to climb.

I would rate it harder to climb than Mt Anne, the north peak of the Geryon or Mt Hyperion, but easier to climb than the summit pinnacle of the Acropolis (which is also exposed)

Dave

[tastrekker]

I loved reading Dave's descriptions of the routes, complete with grades and comparisons.

I've had 2 trips to attempt Fedder. On the first trip, a member of our 5 person party got sick after a large day walking from 2mile creek to the top of Luckmans Lead. The next day snow and floods made life difficult so we beat a hasty retreat back to Scotts Peak just as streams became impassible and stayed that way for days. My lesson here is that the approach is no mean feat in itself.

On my second attempt, I went with only one mate (less people, less things to go wrong). We came in via Farmhouse Creek and Moss Ridge (less distance, less things to go wrong). We started late Sunday (after church committments in Burnie) and walked to South Cracroft just on nightfall. On Monday we camped at Bechervaise. On Tuesday morning, we had a clear run to the summit. By Wednesday evening, my mate was back home in Hobart and I was back in Burnie in the wee small hours of Thursday morning.

The descriptions from Dave and Mr Beach are spot on. The issue with the direct ascent is definitely exposure rather than difficulty. I was quite freaked but stoked to have made it. The view from that one exposed spot is amazing as you look at Lake Geeves 600 metres below your heels. It's not quite vertically below you but it feels very close. My proudest bushwalking snap is of me near that ledge with Lake Geeves as the backdrop.

[scrub master]

I have to agree with the comments so far. The issue is definitely the positive pucker factor on that one section of the climb rather than the technical nature of the route. There are a few tricky scrambly bits on the lower sections of the route, but at least on those bits the exposure is no where near as bad. There are also a few false leads on the way and sometimes the most obvious way in not necessarily the right way. When in doubt, ,just make sure you keep an eye out for the cairns and for signs of obvious trogging. Once you're over the scary section, it's plain sailing to the top.
You've probably seen shots like these before, but here are a couple from my last trip in at Easter time. hope they don't put you off too much

[alex]

i have to agree with others about not being technically hard, but it sure is scary!
also - just about every photo taken up there is taken in a way trying to make them look impressive (at least mine were!) and what i had seen in photos beforehand was worse than what was actually there, something to keep in mind.
scrubmaster - i think our goup may have met your group at the base of the direct ascent at easter time? we were a group of 4 and called out from the summit. if so i hope you had a good trip out and not too many issues with that wasps nest in the West Cracroft! such a small place is tasmania...

[kantonysen]

It would have to have been about the scarest Peak to get to the top of in my opinion. Going down from my recollection was more of a fright than going up, we took a length of rope for our trip and used it on the descent. If going in from Luckmans Lead you need to do some pack hauling at Four Peaks so its worth taking in a rope of a gauge that would be suitable for belaying people.
Keith

[MJD]

All depends how comfortable you are with heights. I've had three successful trips in there. Once via Moss Ridge and twice up Luckman's Lead. I have always gone up the direct ascent. My last trip was solo after my companion pulled out at the last minute with an infected hand - we were at the Tahune picnic area at the time and had previously left his car at Scott's Peak so it seemed sensible to head through and collect his car. Must admit that as I was heading up the direct ascent I started to think that it was getting a bit steeper than I remembered. Still, about the time that thought crossed my mind it was up over the little difficult bit from the sloping ledge where most of the photos are taken and onto the much easier ground leading to the summit.

Must admit that I've never had to pack haul anywhere. My father has always said that if you don't find it necessary to pack haul then you will get to the top without a rope. Those who pack haul may also get to the top without a rope but are more likely to feel more comfortable with one.

Then there is the weather. I've been fortunate to have had dry conditions every time. I'm sure it would be a bit more daunting when wet.

[DaveNoble]

My father has always said that if you don't find it necessary to pack haul then you will get to the top without a rope. Those who pack haul may also get to the top without a rope but are more likely to feel more comfortable with one.

I would concur with this.

Dave

[PeterJ]

I vividly recall, with a smile, my friends comment after we had got back to Thwaites after the climb " ... my *&%$#! was all a quiver"

[PeterJ]

" {gluteous maximus} "

How interesting the above words were not what I typed - I used a much more frequently used word. An auto edit seems to be in the system

[MichaelfromQLD]

Hi guys,

I have seen the photos of the climb at federation and it seems pretty hard.
Is it the exposure that is the big issue or the technical aspect of the climb?
Years ago I did a bit of rockclimbing plus some scrambling at Mt Barney.
I plan a trip in January so assuming a fine day.....

Thanks
Under 15 kg

I've been a little reluctant to take on more challenging walks in tassie as I'm yet to find a comparisom between the difficulty of tasmanian peaks (in terms of scrambling) compared to those I've climbed in SEQ. The exposure looks pretty extreme on Federation, I suggest you train by doing technical and exposed walks such as mt. Lindesay and Leaning Ridge on mt Barney. It's probably the best way to prepare up here in Qld.

This may be branching off topic, but if anyone can provide a comparisom between scrambling difficulty and exposure of Tasmanian peaks vs Qld peaks, it would be much appreciated.

[walkinTas]

" {gluteous maximus} "

How interesting the above words were not what I typed - I used a much more frequently used word. An auto edit seems to be in the system

That is the swear filter Peter. You can't say A S S around here!

[the_camera_poser]

I hate heights. That first picture literally made my stomach turn. Jelly legs, the whole lot. Yucko. Great pictures, if they have that effect, hey?

[Speculator]

I hate heights. That first picture literally made my stomach turn. Jelly legs, the whole lot. Yucko. Great pictures, if they have that effect, hey?

Yup, I just about went poo looking at it. You're not the only one TCP. Federation's off my list now!

[flyfisher]

Yup, I just about went poo looking at it. You're not the only one TCP. Federation's off my list now

Yeah , mine too.
FF

[Fizzygood]

Haven't done it but I will next year... weather gods permitting!

I really reckon its all a head game... realistically how often do you fall off something like the gradient the photos depict?

There are strong hand and foot holds and yes it is daunting considering the thought of something going wrong but all up most of us have probably climbed stuff that looks like this lots of times.... just minus the 500m drop below I guess!

I know a guy that did it in pink crocs... will try and find a pic to post!

[corvus]

And mine ,I fell on a small rock climb and remember how hard it is when you land especially on your face ,tried to remove my nose and part of my upper lip and thanks to close proximity to Hospital emergency treatment I only had my good looks scarred and my desire to climb well and truly curbed

[BarryJ]

...........................................
I really reckon its all a head game... realistically how often do you fall off something like the gradient the photos depict?
.......................................................

Only once!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Fizzygood]

True, but what I mean is the technical difficulty would not turn many people off if it was only 5m high and no death drop below....

Its a head game....

[alliecat]

I hate heights. That first picture literally made my stomach turn. Jelly legs, the whole lot. Yucko. Great pictures, if they have that effect, hey?

Yup, I just about went poo looking at it. You're not the only one TCP. Federation's off my list now!

I''m sooooo glad I'm not the only one who had that reaction!

I don't mind a bit of scrambling, but I'm not a climber, and I think that my self-preservation instincts would kick in and say "no way Jose!" It's not that I think a fall is likely, it's just that the consequences are a bit too severe for my liking.

Kudos to those who achieve it though - I think that's fantastic, and part of me wishes I did have the confidence to do it, but I know myself well enough to know my limits when it comes to climbing. But for those who make it, feel free to take lots of scary pictures and post them here to terrify the rest of us.

[whiskeylover]

I admire anyone who has managed Federation - it is considered to be very difficult and although some people seem to think the climb is not that hard there have been several deaths on the peak. Descending is usually more difficult than ascending - bit of a problem once you're up there, if you decide it's quite scary! Risk taking is an interesting discussion, but personally I think it is worth taking a 9mm rope - pack hauling on the track in is also necessary for some people. There is a fantastic description of the history of the peak and all the climbing routes that have been used over the years at http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence and john Chapman also describes it well. He suggests that due to weather less than half of those who attempt Federation actually get up the final climb. It is suggested that taking a number of extra days will give you more likelihood of success.

[MichaelfromQLD]

There is a fantastic description of the history of the peak and all the climbing routes that have been used over the years at http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence .

Thanks for the link. That's a really interesting and enjoyable site.

Those photos above, are they from the direct ascent or the climbing gully? (or somewhere after the two meet)

If I were to go there I'd be inclined to take the climbing gully despite it's harder grading, on the basis of duration (36m vs 100m) - if the climbing guide is indeed correct. I know they don't write these things with bushwalkers in mind, so the writers perspective on exposure is probably a little different to some of us here.

[flyfisher]

Anybody read Kevin Doran's book on Federation Peak. He has made 21 ascents between 1974 and 2003 including 1 in June and 1 in August and an attempt in
July. A very interesting read with some first class photos.


FF

[flyfisher]

Just a little bit of exposure in the cover photo

FF

[MJD]

I've read it. Actually I helped him with the layout - he's my father. Federation Peak and Cradle Mtn would have to be his two favourite places. His winter trips to Federation and elsewhere were often epics but certainly add fuel to the fire when discussing tactics: do you (a) set a date for a walk and go whatever the conditions or (b) say I would like to climb this mountain in the next month or so, then keep an eye on the weather, and when it looks good race off and enjoy the sun.

The latter option lets you travel light and fast with little excuse for not getting to the summit. The former gives you more stories to tell , teaches you how tough conditions can be, and makes you appreciate the summit that much more.

One point about ropes. I don't believe that you need a 9mm rope for places like the direct ascent. You are not really climbing you are scrambling. If you fall it's not going to be much of a fall as the rope won't have much slack in it (assuming you're not first up of course). I reckon that 6mm is plenty. Perhaps even 4mm if you only want to pack haul and occassionally use it to take your mind off the exposure. The other question is how long should it be to be useful? What do other people use or think?

[flyfisher]

I've read it. Actually I helped him with the layout - he's my father.

Hi, MJD. did you ever go with your father on trips to FP.He would have to know more about Fed.Peak than the average walker with the number of trips he has done.My wife was interested to see a much younger Russel Pargiter in the book, as she knows him from her workplace.(H.C.)

Flyfisher

[norts]

I have the book and have been re-reading it in the dunny over the last few nights. I have enjoyed it.
Especially his walk up the Old River
Roger

[MJD]

flyfisher

I went on two trips to FP with my father. The first was a bit of a disaster when I got sick, followed by my father, at Pass Creek. The Huon Track was hard enough when you were healthy.

The second trip was his (and my) first ascent - once again in via the Huon Track

Yes, he knows a lot about the area; lots of photos/slides; and maps etc collected over the years. I've been thinking about doing a few more trips in there. The trip in from the Old River has a lot of appeal. Another interesting idea is the skyline of Hopetoun, which Dave Noble has described.

One of the more amusing episodes involving my father and Russel Pargiter was a trip that they did to Lake Sydney. On arriving at the lake my father discovered that his two person tent, which had been tied on to the frame of his pack, had fallen off. Without much choice, they spent the night under the stars - cold but dry - and resolved to walk out the following day and face the mirth of their respective families. The next morning, after breakfast, our two heroes set off for home only to stumble across the missing tent only a couple of hundred metres down the track.

[red97]

I definitely think descent is scarier than ascent. I was terrified at one point coming down Mt Anne where going up had not really bothered me.