Jatbula Track NT

[rogo]

For my interstate walk this year my walking buddy and I chose the Jatbula Track just outside Katherine NT. Bookings open in November and only 10 walkers allowed to start each day. We did it in July, my school holidays. The track is only open for a few moths each year during the dry season. It is a easy 6 day walk in a semicircle moving away from the Katherine Gorge in the Nitmilik Park.

After a stupidly short but expensive river crossing we made our way to the first of many waterfall/waterhole stops. We were lucky that the Northern Rockhole falls was still flowing. This was due to the wet wet season this year.

The track finishes each day at permanent water. So we get up and on the track early to beat the worst of the heat and spend the afternoon lazying around the water. Coming from WA, with not too many camp sites on the Bibb end up with a bath, this was sheer luxury. My main concern was crocs, even though I was assured we would not encounter any salties. We didn't, but saw fresh water crocs at 17 Mile Falls sunning themselves on the sandy banks. They don't like human dinners.

We were asked to let the park rangers know if we saw any water buffalo. We didn't, but one of the other walkers in our group says he came face to face with one. We believed him as we saw plenty of tracks in the mud. Yes mud! Heaps and heaps of the stuff. I haven't ever really walked in proper mud before. I adopted the straight through and don't stop method which worked most of the time but sometimes I went waist deep into the stuff. Also quick sand. That was a bit scary. On firm ground to nothing in a split second.

We saw some rock art which was lovely. Possibly not the best ones in the NT but as they were only accessible from the track, I felt privileged to be able to see them. Again this was a first for me. Only one spot is marked on the map but we found a few more. Funny the Aboriginals must have got tired and needed a rest at the same time we did. Quite often we were looking around at a rest stop and there was some great art just metres away. It begs the question...how much more did we miss?

The Jatbula Track is being touted as a must do walk. It is not a difficult walk, fairly flat for most of the track. A few rocky bits and the end of the track you descend a steep section into Edith Falls. There is a public camping ground here and the top of the falls can be walked up to from the camping sites. We met a few very exhausted day trippers slogging up the 600 metre slope.

The killer on this walk was the heat. We found out later it was about 32c each day and down to 14c each night. But 3 weeks earlier it was 25c down to 5c at night. Luck of the weather gods.

Ro

[NickD]

Was waiting for somebody to write up about the Jatbula. I was lucky enough to guide on the trail over the dry season, walking the trail 9 times in three months. It is a fantastic trail and if the heat isn't a problem, quite an achievable walk for many people due to its shorter days & little elevation change.
I didn't see any Buffalo but other members of my group did only once out of 9, and I didn't see a single Freshie, although I could smell them and hear them at Sandy Camp Pool. I had Max temps never drop below 25, and mostly at 30 but night varied trip to trip from 3 degree nights to 20 degree. Sounds like you had it pretty perfect Ro. Good on you for making the trip!!

[melot]

I have just booked today to walk Jatbula next June with My husband. Bookings opened today & can't be done online. The earliest I could ring to book was 12noon EST to learn that 6 of my possible starting dates in June were already fully booked and had there been more than 2 in our party I would not have been able to book the day I did! The Ranger @ Nitmiluk NP said "Yes, Bookings had only opened a couple of hours previously and the phone bookings had been steady all morning" but acknowledged that although the bookings THEORETICALLY opened today, National Parks people in Darwin had arranged a pre-release of bookings for tour companies and operators.When I tried to book in April this year to walk in June 2011, I was told the track was fully booked ... yet there were tour companies advertising vacancies on their Jatbula hikes for those dates! Most walks that need to be booked require payment, or at least a decent deposit with the booking - not Jatbula. Perhaps thats why commercial operators can so easily book out big chunks of the walking season. Because we have our own gear and a fair bit of walking experience we don't need to use a commercial tour operator, nor can we afford to. So... if any one is thinking of walking Jatbula, book soon.... I'm relieved I was able to ring as early as I did.

[wildlight]

My wife and I were lucky beyond belief last year, with the Jatbula trail.

We were going to do the Larapinta, but a massive mouse plague there put Mrs off, plus it was just a tad too warm. So we hired a 4x4, drove to Katherine, and enquired about the Jatbula. The ranger there was extremely obliging, and said that there had been 2 no-shows that day, and we were welcome to join the last boat of the day for the crossing.

On we went, did the walk, had a ball.

Points to note:

Lots of water, as mentioned previously. Creeks were flowing, we were never more than 60 mins from flowing streams, generally 30-40 mins.

SPECTACULAR scenery to die for- NEVER miss the opportunity for a photo if you like something- around the next corner it will be different!

We slacked around in the mornings, and did most of our walking after lunch- (silly really) but the heat wasn't bad at all- maybe we were just lucky. The light for my photography is better in the afternoon and I prefer to be moving through the landscape at this time.

We had nextG (Telstra) coverage every day, generally on the higher ground. Didn't concern us, coz we have a Satphone.

The kiosk at the exit point can get you on a bus back to Katherine Gorge, no probs for short-notice bookings. The food at the kiosk? Generous sandwich fillings, they have soy milk (wifey prefers) and all the normal bad stuff some of us love.

The campsites were spectacular, I won't point out hilights here, suffice to say there are MANY. There are emergency call boxes at every campsite, and a couple extras towards the end. We did not reach every campsite every day, because of THE CAMERA. Lots of intermittent bush camping, with water. The parks don't encourage this, but there was no slap-on-the-wrist when I 'fessed up we'd done it. They were supportive, indicating it was better to camp than to risk injury etc.

There was one evil stretch of South-West-Tassie Mud, on the 2nd last day... hard to imagine- but very true.

To all who read this, do go out and do this one if you get the chance. I have walked extensively in AU over 30 years, mostly off-track. Have done Giles Track, most sections of Larapinta as 2 and 3 day chunks. The Jatbula is one walk which, for some reason, really stands out in my memory.

The wife really enjoyed it too, and bushwalking is not her thing.

Cheers

WildLight

[melot]

Our departure for NT & the Jatbula Trail is a bit over a month away and we are looking at the logistics involved, particularly trying to get a suitable map. NT parks people tell me they no longer have a Jatbula Trail map & topographic maps aren't available at the visitor center. I wondered what maps had been used by those who've walked this trail and where they were purchased from? Also where we might be able to get gas canisters for our MSR Windpro (We'll be flying into Darwin late on a Sat and by the time we get our hire vehicle I'd imagine the shops will be closed) so wondered if there was likely to be any where on the highway south or at Katherine that we'd be likely to be able to get suitable gas? And finally, has anyone left a hire vehicle at Katherine, or Nitmiluk or Edith Falls while they've done the walk and any advice re organising transfers? I see Gecko tours now do daily transfers from Edith Falls back to Katherine, but only at 3pm. Thanks, Melot.

[rogo]

To my way of thinking, you don't need a map. The tourist centre at the book in will give you a "map" which is sufficient. The trail markers are plentiful and from memory there was only one place we scratched our head for a couple of minutes around a water hole and over some rocky bit, but simple to realign ourselves. Gas I got in Darwin as we had a couple of days there visiting friends. Katherine should have canisters or maybe call the Nitmiluk Park and see if tourist centre has any. I think they had a few bits for walkers. We bused to Katherine and then to Nitmiluk the next morning but meet my husband and son at Edith Falls who had a driving holiday instead of a walking holiday. This camping spot is BUSY!!!! I would say very safe to leave a car there if there is room. Plenty of grey nomads and families ( we were there in NT school holidays which are 4 weeks long in winter.) If you chose to bus back to Katherine, you will be in Edith Falls well before the 3pm bus.

[myrtlegirl]

The Parks office in Katherine (not the one at Nitmiluk) has old topo maps for Jatbula that they are going to discard. They tell me the old maps aren't quite correct, as the trails starts at a different spot, and there's a few places where the trail has changed, but they told me that if you use the map in conjunction with the trail map from the NT parks website you'll be fine.

I don't think you need the topo map to do the walk safely, but I like looking at maps as I walk; I can see exactly where I am (well, mostly), plan my breaks, and develop map-reading skills.

A new map is being developed.

Ring them on 08 8973 8888 and ask them to post an old map to you. They're free too.

The Nitmiluk Visitors Centre don't tell you about this map; don't know why.

[north-north-west]

I think Aus Geo did a map of the Track some years back. Not sure if it's just part of the article or a separate map. And I'm too lazy to try dig out the relevant edition . . .

[wildlight]

We have left a hire vehicle at Rangers' station during the walk, all good, no charge for the parking. Gas canisters are available at visitors centre Nitmiluk, no probe, normal stock for them. Also re maps- just a mud map is fine, this trail is not quite as basic as the Overland track is to follow- but not much different. When you emerge, at the carpark at the end of the walk, swing slightly left and make for the buildings 200 meters away, it would have to be the most secluded, camouflaged kiosk on earth.

The lady there (Jo I think) also doubles up as bus driver, and there are departures loosely scheduled for 10 am and 4pm, taking you back to Katherine gorge carpark. You can book by phone before your walk, either Pioneer/Greyhound one of those- otherwise just rock up and pay your money- not a big amount.

All good- it's a pretty casual sort of area- there is no big stress if you take longer to do the walk than you say on the form- the cavalry won't come after you. The final campsite- the name escapes me- is about 2 or 3 hours of ambling, back to the kiosk. Almost nobody ever camps at it- they camp about 2 hours further in on the trail.

It's an awesome, spectacular walk. My Mrs still raves about it. We took about 7 or 8 days to do it, camped at many self-appointed "intermediate" sites. If you're not afraid of the dark, dawdle for the first 90 mins after you alight from the boat, enjoy the waterfall, and after that, get set for a visual masterpiece around sunset.

It's a REALLY nice place.

SafeSteps

WildLight

[abowen]

Does anyone know about a foot or road bridge south of the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre? Daly's in their book on walks in the NT mentions this as the start of the walk instead of the ferry. Doing this walk in early August and doing some forward planning. If we take the ferry, is it ridiculously expensive?
On another topic, what is the typical walkers lunch? Have some concerns with what I normally eat as it may not last if it is too warm. Are mountain breads ok? Or are hard biscuits better? Any feedback would be much appreciated.
Cheers, from a Tassie walker.

[jez_au]

The ferry cost either $5 or $10 I think... it was cheap anyway. They just put you on a tour boat which drops you off on the other side before continuing upstream on their tour. It's only 2 minutes on the boat. I don't think you can book onto the track without the ferry. Everything is pretty cheap on the trail, $3-4 per night camping, it's not like they're making much money out of you.

It used to be that you could walk to the south west of the visitor centre, following the river bank down, until you could find a place to cross (apparently there are places.) Crocs could be an issue.

[abowen]

Thanks Jez,
I heard stories that it was more like $60. That must be the price for the Katherine Gorge tour.
Cheers
AB

[jez_au]

I heard stories that it was more like $60.

I can check as I'd have the receipt with my maps. But then it could be just as easy to phone up. It's 2 mins on an operating-anyway tour. I did it in August 2010.

[rogo]

Last year it was $10 or so. Yep not much but I could have swum the distance it took us. That is why I said it was expensive. I had just got my bum on the seat...at the front of the boat.... and it docked at a sandbank and we had to jump off. It was packed up day trippers but what they paid I have no idea.

As regards to the cost of the walking the track, it is ridiculously cheap. Very good value for money.

I can really recommend this walk as a easy but extremely enjoyable few days.

Ro

[abowen]

Thanks everyone.. Looking forward to the journey. Should be very different to Tassie walking! I spoke to the Park Ranger today and got most things sorted. Cheers AB

[jeremy089786]

Great Thread! For those of you who have done the walk, do you reckon you could get a packraft/ lilo down the Edith River? With any luck I will book in tomorrow!!!

All the best,

Jeremy.

[jez_au]

do you reckon you could get a packraft/ lilo down the Edith River?

Don't think so from what I saw. Quite a few large pools, but the other sections I saw are pretty small, series of pools but flowing. Lots of portage I'd imagine. You could try though, the track is parallel to the river from Edith Crossing if you want to bail on it at anytime. Downstream too, so it will only get wider. If you try let us know how you go.

[jeremy089786]

Thanks Jez,

I will take my packraft up that way, but might not take it on the hike, rather up Katherine Gorge. If I'm feeling risky I will use my Exped as I lilo, which worked pretty well in NZ. Either way I will report back in a couple of weeks.

[Snowzone]

I have just completed the Jatbula Trail and loved it. Here are a couple of updates;

The ferry to begin the walk cost $7, its only a two minute trip from one side of the river to the other.
Maps are really not needed. The Park notes available for the trail are more than sufficient, the trail is extremely well marked.
There has been a recent fire through the 17 mile falls campsite. It detracts from the beauty a bit for camping here, although we found a couple of sandy sites on the other side of the river from the main camp site which were very pleasant.
The Kiosk at Edith Falls is currently only selling junk food and drinks, Don't expect that delicious lunch that you've been thinking about for the last few days of the walk. They had a really bad flood there on December 26th 2011. It washed out a lot of the facilities at Edith Falls including the kiosk so they are currently operating out of a temporary van. Check the photos of the flood out that they have there at Edith Falls and also the flood river level is marked on the toilet door at Sandy Camp Pool. There is also plenty of debris high in the trees along the Edith River.

This is a great walk to experience.

[north-north-west]

Debris. Please.

[Snowzone]

Debris. Please.

Oops, noted and edited.

[Sassafras]

Hey, Hoping someone that has done this walk this year can help me out. I have been trying to find a transfer from Edith Falls back to Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge). We don't just want to wing it when we get to the other end. Posts here suggest that it can be arranged through the kiosk - but I can't get hold of anyone. Nitmiluk tours said they don't offer a service. Dysons don't seem to be doing the same transfers and the only provider that I can find want to charge an arm and a leg if there is less than 4 of you! We're going in September which is a less popular time. Any ideas appreciated.

[icabody]

Hi Sassafras, we did it only a few weeks ago and despite mid 30's for the first 3 days we had a great time only spoilt by car problems which is another story. Anyway, as I recall there is only the one bus choice and yes somewhat expensive. As there were 4 of us we planned to wait at Edith Falls while one of us went back for the car. BTW Edith Falls campground was the best we stayed at between home in Adelaide and Darwin - plenty of shade with green grass, good value, good swimming and this season managed by a very friendly young French couple, Giselle and Madi. Although we did book the bus we didn't take it (even before I found out the cost) as we came out early and got a one person lift into Katherine. So my advice would be spend the night at Edith Falls and you won't have to wait long in the morning for a lift from another camper back to Katherine & again to Nitmiluk (over-priced, over crowded and a bit of a dustbowl). The campground at Edith Falls is always full but there's always room for campers without a car and everyone leaving from there are either heading north or back to Katherine and possibly Nitmiluk. Good luck!

[abowen]

If you do decide to bus from Edith Falls to Katherine or back to Nitmiluk, the operator you need to contact is Gecko Tours (Mick). Nice guy and very friendly. We completed this walk a couple of weeks ago and had a thoroughly enjoyable time, despite being unclimatized to the heat. We had two days in the high 30's on the track and coming from Tassie, it was a shock. However, it was a nice dry heat and in the end just slowed us down a bit. And I did see a water buffalo between 17 Mile and Sandy Camp Pool. Also a bit of a shock, as I had split off from my main group and was solo behind another party of walkers. I didn't quite know what to do other than stand still. It soon caught the smell of my fear and bolted through the scrub!
Cheers
AB

[elinekl]

Hi guys,
I'm also looking into transfer from edith falls to Nitmiluk. Looks like its $252 for 1 person 1 way by gekko. That's crazy. I only need a ticket for 1 as 1 in our group (3 people) is going to pick up the car from the start.
Is anybody else looking for transport back to Nitmiluk or Katherin the 6th of June?
Cheers!
Eline



Jatbula Trail Transfer Booking Form – Edith Falls to Katherine/Nitmiluk
Cost Structure:
1-3 seats: To Katherine = $162.00, To Nitmiluk = $252.00
4+ seats: To Katherine =$49.50 per person , $66.00 per person (to Nitmiluk)
Minimum number Policy: Appropriate refund given when minimum numbers exceeded.
leave at 3 pm from kiosk at Edith falls.

[eaglehawk]

Hi, yes we are in the same boat, 1 person going back to pick up car (Nitmiluk) on that same day. Is 3pm the only option? We were hoping for earlier in the day. Hope we can arrange something.

[mjgoshawk]

Most of the time there is more than 3 people booked on the trip back anyway. You can ask them to do an earlier one, usually about 10AM works for them.

[mjgoshawk]

Hi, most of the time there is more than 3 booked on the transfer anyway. They can organise an earlier one at 10AM, but you need the numbers. 2 years ago Nitmiluk Tours sent a bus out every day (twice), but not enough people used it so they had to cease the service. Thats why Gecko do the minimum numbers thing!

[mjgoshawk]

Does anyone know about a foot or road bridge south of the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre? Daly's in their book on walks in the NT mentions this as the start of the walk instead of the ferry. Doing this walk in early August and doing some forward planning. If we take the ferry, is it ridiculously expensive?
On another topic, what is the typical walkers lunch? Have some concerns with what I normally eat as it may not last if it is too warm. Are mountain breads ok? Or are hard biscuits better? Any feedback would be much appreciated.
Cheers, from a Tassie walker.

In the old days, we used to walk past the Rangers station and take a marked track opposite the old 'school groups' campsite. This went down to the the river a nd a low metal foot bridge , which would be covered early in the seaon if the water is up. its about 1 hr of walking from the visitor centre until you are opposite the centre again, so thats a bit of a let down. You then have to cross 17 mile creek about 1km up from the river junction. Then its a 1km side track (which you have to return on) if you want to see the Northern Rock hole which is worth the stop for a swim.

The new track goes from the river edge across from the boat ramp straight to Northern Rock hole (3km), so its better to pay the ferry fee across the river.

[jez_au]

When I did the walk in August 2010, the ferry cost $5. You join a standard tour going upriver, as soon as it leaves the Nitmiluk landing it goes over the other side and drops you off. You're standing on the boat for a couple of minutes max, before it chugs off on it's 1 hour tour upstream. At $5 you can hardly complain, it's seems a pretty equitable price for the service offered.