4 days : Murchison, West Coast, North Coast

[Hallu]

After visiting Tassie during 6 days in February, I always wanted to go back. Last time I did the "obvious" : Tasman Peninsula, Freycinet, Bay of Fires, Cradle, Mount Field. This time, I was alone, and did some more remote stuff : Mount Murchison, Trial Harbour, the Western Explorer, Arthur River, Stanley/The Nut, Rocky Cape and Narrawntapu was the program.

It wasn't rushed or anything : I always get up at 6/7 am on vacation anyway, and with sunset around 8 pm in November, there's plenty of time. The first day I wanted to attempt Mount Murchison : trouble for me, it was raining, windy, and cold. Well, what the hell, it's typical Tassie weather (at least in the West) so let's do this. Luckily I had enough gear : rain jacket, waterproof boots, gaiters. And I sure needed them. Mud everywhere, slippy rocks, slippy mud, rain on and off, chilly wind, and a steep climb to the summit. Some places were really dangerous, mostly on the way down, and I wouldn't recommend anyone to do it in that weather. The last part is especially risky, with big rocks to climb, and height exposure. Lucky for me the 3 times I fell on my *&%$#! it was on the last part on the way down thanks to those *&%$#! wet roots. And yet I enjoyed the walk : changing scenery, a nearby lake, some small waterfalls, a rainbow, some mist, and myself all alone there. In terms of wildlife, it was really slim pickings, not even a bird. But I liked those 5 hours of suffering nevertheless, it's an experience. I'd say I'm a medium walker, and I had some trouble with this track, so I don't think I could even think about climbing Mt Anne.

After the walk, I had time to drive all the way to Trial Harbour : the road is beautiful, I didn't expect a (low) mountain range so close to the coast, and then the campground appeared. I wasn't alone, but I had the last spot, closest to the coast and yet protected from the wind by some bushed. Beautiful sunset, I loved this spot, I can't believe it's free.

Here are some pictures of this day.

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Steep, wet, limited visibility : thanks for the ranger working the area, the track was well marked with bright colored ribbons.

My spot at Trial Harbour

Last edited by Hallu on Tue 13 Nov, 2012 5:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

[Hallu]

2nd day : in the morning I looked around Trial Harbour. Apparently the small track starting near my camping spot is a narrow track that goes up into the hills. I didn't have time for it, but it looked worth exploring.

I headed for Corinna and the Western Explorer. I took the ferry at Corinna, and enjoyed the drive. If I had more time, I'd probably have done the walk to Mount Donaldson. The road is mostly in good shape, apart from a rough part between Savage and Donaldson rivers. I missed the Longback short walk, but apparently it was that spot up the hills where there is a sign... with nothing written on it. I guess that's what they call "signposted" on the brochure. Then I left the Tarkine and started exploring the West Coast : Couta Rocks, Sarah Anne Rocks, Nelson Bay, Arthur River and Bluff Point. The map they put on the Couta Rocks/Western Explorer corner was very helpful, too bad it's not available online. I loved the "Edge of the World" platform on Arthur River, Bluff Point was beautiful too. Perfect clear blue sky.

For the night, I planed on sleeping at Stanley and do the Nut in the morning. It turned out I had time for both, so I explored the Nut and climbed it on foot (really steep climb, 100 m elevation in about 400 m of track... they really want you to take that chairlift). It's a pretty touristy spot, with a group not respecting the "keep to the track" sign and wanted to do the cliché "let's all jump in the air" photo right in the bushes... but the views were gorgeous, and I was pleasantly surprised to see a group of pademelons up there. Food was good in Stanley, nice fish.

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Donaldson river

View from "The Edge of the World" platform

Bluff Hill Point

Blotched blue-tongue lizard

View from The Nut

[Hallu]

Third day : time for Rocky Cape National Park. But my feet were sore and still blistered from some hikes in Wilsons Prom' the week before (damn those injinji socks... never again) so I ditched the 5 hour hard circuit for the 4 hour medium one in Chapman book. So I had time for Dip Falls and The Big Tree in the morning, a post 25 km inside the forest near Mawbanna. And it was a good idea, the falls are beautiful, the spot secluded and refreshing. The big tree area is a very nice sight too, worth the 50 km return trip from the A2.

At Rocky Cape, I first explored the beaches and lookouts at the Western border of the park, beautiful area with a red coastline. Then I did the Anniversary Point circuit : I climbed to Broadview Hill first, it was sunny and hot, but muddy from the rains 2 days before. Nice views. Then there's a sidetrack to a waterfall : they say 30 min return, but it felt like 40, and the falls weren't worth it (at all). Anniversary Point and this strange lunar landscape on the beach were though, beautiful spot, I was all alone (on a Sunday) here. The track then explored 2 aboriginal caves, but it wasn't really my cup of tea, I enjoyed the views and the vegetation. I was disappointed at the lack of remoteness though, there are numerous houses and boatramps, it was normal for spots like Couta Rocks or Sarah Anne Rocks, those are little towns, not protected areas, but to find it in a bigger scale in a National Park surprised me.

Then I drove to Narawntapu National Park for the night, to set up camp at Springlawn. It supposed to be a beautiful spot full of wildlife, and it wasn't an exaggeration : the lawn is a paradise for wombats, kangaroos and walabies, and the forest is full of pademelons. Lots of birds too, thanks to the lakes and swampy areas. The park is amazingly well maintained, nice visitor center, camping with toilets and token showers, electric BBQ, nice walking tracks. I walked to the swamp at sunset hoping to see a platypus, but no, I still haven't seen one in Australia.

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Dip Falls

Big Tree

Rocky Cape

Mountain Dragon

Anniversary Point

[Hallu]

On the last day the weather turned grey and rainy, but not as bad as the first day. So I did the Archers Knob + Bakers Beach walk, 3 hours return, and drove to more secluded spots at the East of the park. Badger Head isn't worth it if you just drive there, but Westhead has a beautiful lookout and short walk.

I loved my second trip to Tassie, maybe even more than the first one because I was more prepared, and it wasn't as rushed. Next time I hope to do Ben Lomond and an overnight at Walls of Jerusalem, and maybe some daywalks in the South West. Can't wait.

If you've got any question about tracks, car access, etc... don't hesitate. FYI, I drove a 2WD rental, and it was fine everywhere I went, except when I tried to explore further North at Nelson Bay.

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Wombat on Springlawn

"None shall pass"

View from Westhead.

[Nick S]

thanks for posting mate, good to see people enjoying the west coast areas. Keen for a trip there myself now..