Western Arthurs Solo Mission

[pazzar]

I recently spent 8 days solo up on the Western Arthurs, originally planning to walk from Scotts Peak to Farmhouse Creek over 2 weeks. I headed off on Wednesday the 9th of November, the day after my final exam. I left Hobart at around 3:30am to be walking at the crack of dawn, hoping to make it to Lake Oberon for night one. I was on the track by 6am, and I powered through to Junction Creek in just over 2 hours, despite my heavy pack. I then continued through mist, not having any vision of the range until I got to the campsite at the base of the moraine. The moraine was nowhere near as bad as I remembered it being, or maybe I just got a bit fitter. I was at Lake Cygnus by noon, which I thought was reasonable going, definitely on the lower end of Chapman's suggested time. I continued on, not going up Mt Hayes as I had already been up before, and I pushed on the Procyon Peak. This section took me longer than expected, but I had summitted Procyon and was down at Square Lake by 4. The sun was shining, and I looked back to see some nasty clouds on the way. I decided that it was best to set up camp, as it was going to take another 3 hours to get to Lake Oberon with the sidetrips included. I even stripped off for a swim in Square Lake. I would have loved it if someone had of just wandered over the hill to see a guy naked in Square Lake. I cooked up some dinner and set off to sleep when an almighty storm came through. Thunder and lightning, and lots of rain. It was a fairly sleepless night.

Square Lake and Procyon Peak

Day two I pushed up and over to Lake Oberon, climbing Mt Sirius and Orion on the way. The views from the top were great. I continued down wondering what all the fuss about descending to Oberon was, then I stumbled across it. It was pretty slippery going down, but nothing I couldn't handle. I set up my tent on the dodgy platforms at the lake, had some lunch and then decided to go climb Mt Pegasus South, to save a sidetrip the following day, and also to have a look at the obstacles I would have to face going up Mt Pegasus. I got up there and the wind started howling, it was hard to stand at times. Despite the wind and little bit of rain, I was back at my tent in a little over 2.5 hours. That night it rained all night. I didn't sleep much as I had to continually wake up to drain the pool of water collecting on the top of my tent.

The following day it continued to rain until midday, so I stayed at Lake Oberon for the day. It was a beautiful afternoon and I was starting to regret not walking to High Moor.

I was up bright and early the next day to tackle Mt Pegasus. I thought I may have struggled getting the pack up in some places, but I had no real issues. The boulder squeeze up the top was great fun. Before I knew it I was having lunch on top of Mt Capricorn, despite it being only 11am. The descent was great fun. It was so cool to look back at the slope that is descended, it looks impossible. I continued up around the next sidle and dropped the pack for a run out to Dorado Peak. It took me about 1 hour to get there and back. The conditions were great out there, a bit windy still. I got back to my pack and continued on to High Moor. I set up my tent and to my surprise, another man came through. He was thinking of continuing to Haven Lake as it was only 3pm, but he decided to stay at High Moor. We both went for a wander up to Mt Columba and enjoyed a beautiful clear night, with no wind!

Evening at High Moor

We were both up bright and early to tackle the Beggary Bumps. We got across the first bit very quickly, then I decided to leave him at the Dragon while I had a look at Mt Shaula. I couldn't find a good way down from there, so I decided to skip it. I wandered back to the track, only to find my friend wandering around, having lost the track. With a bit of searching around, I found it again and we were off. We descended down the side of the Dragon, then found a track going up the other side of it. We were going an awful long way up, and we were in a fierce hail storm. We got to a clearing and saw that we were heading the wrong direction. I think I had just found the way out to Mt Shaula. But since I couldn't actually see it in the storm, we went back down and found the track again. We then pushed on up over Mt Taurus and down to Haven Lake. I set up my tent, the best camp I had been at so far. My friend continued on, hoping to make it to Cracroft Camp that night in an attempt to hitch a ride from Tahune the following afternoon. I was shocked that he had only spent 2 nights on the range. It was still early afternoon, so I went for a trip out to Mt Aldebaran. There was a reasonable pad out there and I found myself on the top after about 45 minutes. I had a good break up there, taking in the great views and great weather. I headed back and relaxed at the campsite, and had a very nice evening. It rained a little that night, but it wasn't unpleasant.

Late afternoon at Haven Lake

I got up early the next morning, hoping for a relatively easy day. I was starting to tire, and I had decided to change my plan due to a dodgy weather forecast. I decided to descend off Kappa Moraine after I had cleaned out the remaining peaks on the Western Arthurs. I had intended to camp at either Lake Vesta or Lake Juno on this night. I struggled my way over to Mt Scorpio, and was relieved to start descending. As I was passing the two lakes, it started to rain. The campsites at the lakes were all quagmires, so I had to push on to Promontory Lake. The walk around the lake seemed to take an eternity. I found the recommended campsites but these were also quite wet. I ended up camping on an exposed grassy ridge, but at least it was dry. I went for a quick run up Carina Peak, finding myself in a snow storm up the top. It was about 5:30pm when I returned to my tent. It was blowing a gale, so I tried to cook some dinner, only to find that the wind kept putting my stove out. I gave up and just ate some solid food I had left. I entertained myself reading a book for until it got dark. The following day it was still blowing a gale, but I had made up my mind that I was going to climb West Portal anyway. I set off with my day pack and headed up and over The Phoenix, and I was on the top of West Portal in 3 hours, in beautiful sunny conditions. I found a bit of an airy scramble to get to the summit, but I found a nice easy was to get back down. I returned to camp via a side trip to Mt Canopus. It started to pour with icy cold rain up there. I got back to my tent and stripped off and jumped in the sleeping bag to warm up. Again I couldn't keep my stove alight, nor wanted to be outside cooking in the conditions.

View from my tent at Promontory Lake

The following morning was relatively calm and I packed up my gear and started the walk back to Kappa Moraine. I decided to take Chapman's "Shortcut" off the moraine. I think I left the track a little too low, and encountered a forest, where I found some thick scrub. I pushed through it and found myself in some lovely open rainforest. I emerged back on button grass and continued to Seven Mile Creek. I then picked up the McKay's Track and headed off. I don't think the shortcut saved me any time, despite shaving off 5km. I trudged on through the mud, getting very lethargic as I pushed on. I decided to switch on the iPhone to have some music going, that way I had something to help pass the time and distances. I ran into a guy near Two Mile Creek at 1pm who was planning to go up to Promontory Lake on that day. He was going up there, then out across to Federation. After a bit of a chat I was off again, and was relieved to make it to Junction Creek. I continued on and was at my car just after 5pm. It was raining heavily and I was glad to be back in dry clothes.

Overall I had a great trip, despite not going through with my original plans. The weather was mostly great. There wasn't a summit I didn't get a view off. During the days the weather was mostly clear. It was windy all week, and I don't miss that at all! I must say I learnt a lot about myself while I was out there. I found it super hard to stay motivated when you are alone. It seems so easy to just relax and have a tent day. It was a struggle each day to drag myself out of bed, but once I was moving I was fine. I don't think I will do many trips of that length solo again. I do enjoy a bit of company. My legs are certainly feeling it right now, my poor knees!

I had a great time and would gladly go through there again.

Looking back across the range

Jared

[Nuts]

Nice, youthful energy eh Are they iphone photos, Eldons trip next?

[pazzar]

Ha youthful energy that turns into lethargy very quickly. Photos from a Panasonic Lumix FT10. No Eldons this summer, that was supposed to happen instead of this trip - the boat fell through at the last minute. Either Franklands or Du Canes next major trip.

[weetbix456]

greatstuff jared, can't wait to hear more

[Phil]

Thanks for the report Jared. An amzing place. Will have to get there ONE day

[doogs]

Thanks nice report. Typically windy spring conditions in Tasmania , I desperately need to get to the WArthurs soon too. What stove do you have Paz? Sounds like you need an upgrade

[pazzar]

I have a MSR pocket rocket, normally fine in the wind, but it was really blowing, I hadn't been in anything like it. I thought the fly was gonna tear in half. It didn't help that I forgot my windshield for the stove though.

[phan_TOM]

Eexcellent trip report Jared, I'm totally envious of your backyard! Nice photos, amazing place.

Nice to see you challenge your physical and mental boundaries too, you must be feeling pretty satisfied with yourself

[stepbystep]

Nice report Jared, good to see you got some views, where's the still evening on Columba pics ???

Surprised the stove was so bad, used my PR on Rugby in an extremely exposed and windy position and it only blew out once while simmering, were you cooking in the vestibule?
Which way did you go to get to Pegasus South without going over Pegasus?

Missing the Warthurs

[pazzar]

Nice report Jared, good to see you got some views, where's the still evening on Columba pics ???

Surprised the stove was so bad, used my PR on Rugby in an extremely exposed and windy position and it only blew out once while simmering, were you cooking in the vestibule?
Which way did you go to get to Pegasus South without going over Pegasus?

Missing the Warthurs

The sunset was a bit of a flop on Columba, not a breath of wind though.

I can't cook in my vestibule, its too small. Only a small one man tent

I went over Pegasus to get to Pegasus South, used the pad most of the way out there. I was a bit surprised at the quality of pad on some of the side trips.

[stepbystep]

I went over Pegasus to get to Pegasus South, used the pad most of the way out there. I was a bit surprised at the quality of pad on some of the side trips.

Gotcha, by your report it was like Pegasus happened the next day, thought you might have swum across Oberon or something I didn't see a pad out there as opposed to some of the other side trips, just beautiful open walking, the views east and west are sublime hey?

[pazzar]

It was all easy and open thankfully, and yeah the views there are great. I loved the view of the Norolds from there - They look so inviting, yet uninviting....

[stepbystep]

Here's a pic of Norold nestled between the Western and Eastern Arthurs, must be nice up there.....

Attachments

[Binder]

Thanks for the great report and pics Jared.

We have been planning on flying out the sputniks for the last couple of weeks but have been beaten by the weather every time. Any update on weather they are full or not ? We know Cygnus is, not sure about the others.

Cheers

Brendan

[stepbystep]

Thanks for the great report and pics Jared.

We have been planning on flying out the sputniks for the last couple of weeks but have been beaten by the weather every time. Any update on weather they are full or not ? We know Cygnus is, not sure about the others.

Cheers

Brendan

They are chockers according to a friend that went through recently

[Nuts]

Stir em with a stick, there'll be heaps of room under there they build up pyramid style.

[South_Aussie_Hiker]

Thanks Nuts, did not need to read that while eating dinner

[PeterJ]

Here's a pic of Norold nestled between the Western and Eastern Arthurs, must be nice up there.....

It is SBS but getting there takes a while and there is some scrub. At least the way we went, which was off Pegasus south and over the Crossing and North Rivers. Just looked up my notes (The Crossing River is small and only calf deep and is surrounded by damp old forest. ....... A thickly wooded ridge lies between here and the North River and the southernside is very tortuous and slow going. With no views and many slopes it is not easy to navigate. Aprox 7 hours is needed to reach the North plains. From here it is open going over low button grass.) And getting off the range (...descent to the Old River is quite steep down button grass covered ridges) which i recall being hard to not slip down on.

[pazzar]

Thanks for the great report and pics Jared.

We have been planning on flying out the sputniks for the last couple of weeks but have been beaten by the weather every time. Any update on weather they are full or not ? We know Cygnus is, not sure about the others.

Cheers

Brendan

Oberon was very close to full, I didn't require any use of other sputniks.

[Binder]

Thanks for the update. Will get to them as soon as we get a break in the weather.
Nuts, you will find that the pyramids are fairly solid, full of empty tin can and glass jar re-inforcing

Cheers

[Nick S]

Wow you're a bit of a machine Jared.. Climb a few peaks, eat a cold meal and jump in a sleeping bag, rinse and repeat. Great report.
And yeah I remember being amazed at the complete remoteness of Mt Norolds and more recently the Spiro range from the EA's.

[pazzar]

Wouldn't say I'm a machine, just an enthusiast! Love the feeling of accomplishment when you reach a summit. Definitely struggled with the isolation, but well worth it. Hoping to complete my first 10 day trip starting next week hanging in the Du Cane area, hopefully I make it the whole 10 days!

[weetbix456]

maybe you'll need another solo detox in reply

[pazzar]

maybe you'll need another solo detox in reply

I think I will need that

[Fizzygood]

I am heading in to do this solo in a few weeks. Will take 10 days to complete the full traverse (ie: no exit at K morraine)

I am planning for everything from bathers to snow pegs!

Would love to see some pics from this time of year if anyone wants to share.

Oh, and no advice wanted or needed on the dangers of solo walking or prep required for the area... got it covered!

Cheers, Erin

[pazzar]

Good luck with the trip Erin. One of the best walks you will ever get to do. My photos up there are from early November, so you could get conditions like that, but you know as well as I do that you could get anything!

Cheers,

Jared

[Swifty]

Would love to see some pics from this time of year if anyone wants to share.

Here's a link to one of Dave Noble's winter traverses:

http://www.david-noble.net/Tasmania/Win ... sMenu.html

[Fizzygood]

Lets hope I don't encounter too many photo opportunities like some of these!

Slowly getting my gear sorted for the trip. Feeling pretty psyched!

Cheers, Erin

[Kinsayder]

Great report, thanks, Jared!