Vanishing Falls
Posted: Sun 04 Mar, 2012 12:01 pmHere’s a short report on a recent trip to Vanishing Falls by two Tassie walkers. This was our third attempt, the first being 22 years ago via Bobs Knobs and the second via the South Cracroft valley. We started this trip to the Falls on Saturday 18 February. We had allowed 14 days in case something went awry, and expected to do it in 12. In fact, the trip was completed in even less time, although some days were very long. This is how it played out.
By the end of the first day we had got to Granite Beach. We were late into camp after a long day with heavy packs in a typical drizzle. No surprises on the South Coast Track, just the normal encounters with a few parties heading west to east complaining about the mud.
The second day was spent continuing along the South Coast Track to New River Lagoon, still with the persistent drizzle.
Day three, yet more drizzle, and time to head inland. At New River Lagoon we inflated our packrafts, loaded up and set off up the lagoon to the New River, which we followed until log jams blocked further progress. Rafts were deflated and stashed in the forest.
We then followed the forested banks of the New River northwards, and then turned east into the Salisbury River with much of the time wading in the river or on the rocks alongside – anything to minimise time in the scrub on the river's banks. There was much crossing and re-crossing of the river to find the best way as there are several very deep pools and places where the river banks are very steep.
Beyond the point where the river disappears just upstream of Pungalannar Pool, the walking was in the old river bed. We inspected the large cave and then weaved our way between the progressively larger rocks of the limestone country. Turning the final corner presents a stunning approach to Vanishing Falls (larger than photos would have you believe) and framed by ancient myrtle forest. What a setting! Quite a lot of water was coming over the Falls, but all easily accommodated in the pool at the bottom and from which it promptly, well, vanishes.
We then turned for home, pausing briefly at the spot where the water just silently reappears. The return trip down the Salisbury was slow, not because the river was up but because more rain made the rocks treacherously slippery. So we cautiously picked our way down, wary of injury to ankles and knees.
Once we regained where the rafts had been left we re-inflated the rafts and set off downstream. After many breaks to absorb the magnificent profile of PB, we reached the mouth of the New River. Heading into our face was a strong south westerly wind and rather large waves on New River Lagoon which encouraged us to turn into Cavers Camp for the night. Here we met other people for the first time in several days.
The next day was very hot. With a strong north westerly wind blowing and following sea we made fast pace to East Prion Beach. Rafts were deflated and we repacked all our gear. As we were about to head off a South Coast Track walker arrived rather short of food – so we were able to donate 4 days worth of what was now surplus food. By late afternoon we were at Surprise Beach for a swim and camp.
The following day was also rather hot. An early start had us over to Granite Beach promptly, and then across the South Cape Range to South Cape Rivulet where we stopped early to camp, wrung out by the heat.
The last day saw rain again as we walked out to our starting point. 3 hours later, we were back in the car and heading for Hobart, stopping only for lunch on the way.
By the end of the first day we had got to Granite Beach. We were late into camp after a long day with heavy packs in a typical drizzle. No surprises on the South Coast Track, just the normal encounters with a few parties heading west to east complaining about the mud.
The second day was spent continuing along the South Coast Track to New River Lagoon, still with the persistent drizzle.
Day three, yet more drizzle, and time to head inland. At New River Lagoon we inflated our packrafts, loaded up and set off up the lagoon to the New River, which we followed until log jams blocked further progress. Rafts were deflated and stashed in the forest.
- Approaching the mouth of New River
- Paddling up New River
We then followed the forested banks of the New River northwards, and then turned east into the Salisbury River with much of the time wading in the river or on the rocks alongside – anything to minimise time in the scrub on the river's banks. There was much crossing and re-crossing of the river to find the best way as there are several very deep pools and places where the river banks are very steep.
- Walking up the Salisbury River - Bobs Knobs in the background
Beyond the point where the river disappears just upstream of Pungalannar Pool, the walking was in the old river bed. We inspected the large cave and then weaved our way between the progressively larger rocks of the limestone country. Turning the final corner presents a stunning approach to Vanishing Falls (larger than photos would have you believe) and framed by ancient myrtle forest. What a setting! Quite a lot of water was coming over the Falls, but all easily accommodated in the pool at the bottom and from which it promptly, well, vanishes.
- At Vanishing Falls, at last
We then turned for home, pausing briefly at the spot where the water just silently reappears. The return trip down the Salisbury was slow, not because the river was up but because more rain made the rocks treacherously slippery. So we cautiously picked our way down, wary of injury to ankles and knees.
Once we regained where the rafts had been left we re-inflated the rafts and set off downstream. After many breaks to absorb the magnificent profile of PB, we reached the mouth of the New River. Heading into our face was a strong south westerly wind and rather large waves on New River Lagoon which encouraged us to turn into Cavers Camp for the night. Here we met other people for the first time in several days.
- Precipitous Bluff from New River
The next day was very hot. With a strong north westerly wind blowing and following sea we made fast pace to East Prion Beach. Rafts were deflated and we repacked all our gear. As we were about to head off a South Coast Track walker arrived rather short of food – so we were able to donate 4 days worth of what was now surplus food. By late afternoon we were at Surprise Beach for a swim and camp.
The following day was also rather hot. An early start had us over to Granite Beach promptly, and then across the South Cape Range to South Cape Rivulet where we stopped early to camp, wrung out by the heat.
The last day saw rain again as we walked out to our starting point. 3 hours later, we were back in the car and heading for Hobart, stopping only for lunch on the way.
