The Three Bodied Giant
Posted: Mon 05 Mar, 2012 7:01 pm
Last weekend forum member pazzar and myself set out to climb Geryon and a few surrounding mountains. We left Hobart at seven and walked the lake upon arrival, hitting the sack by about 1:30. On the friday morning we were away by 8:00 and pazzar managed to make it to Pine Valley Hut in 1:30, a time I couldn't make due to some morning stomach cramps and other unpleasantries.
He generously waited for me at the hut for about 40mins, me taking about 2:20hrs. 10mins later we were away and soon crossed the log marking the start of the old Geryon campsite track. The first 50m were well defined but after that great care was need to follow the track. The track crosses some of the most beautiful rainforest along with the various falls and deep eddies along Cephissus Creek. After a few leads and an hour twenty we were at the camp, getting ready for the ascent of Geryon South. I opted to carry only a few things in my pockets and donned runners for the climb.
The ascent began through Pandani abundant rainforest with small ledges every now and then until we emerged at the bottom of the scree slope. The first 5mins were over pleasant medium sized boulders which then changed to annoying loose rock, a pain on the descent. In about 15mins we were at the base of the first cliff where a short climb leads onto a ramp, wrapping round the southern side of the South Spur. A nice little bivvy cave was passed before we reached the Acropolis- South Spur Saddle, later to realise this was because we kept too high. The Acropolis is very impressive from here. We then kept heading along the South Spur and just before the top decided to correct the route after encoutering a sketchy sidle above the east face. It was down again from here and the correct ledge was attained soon enough. Again, we kept going and found a rap station instead of a descent route. We retraced our steps and came across the correct gully 2mins later, leading to another sidle. Then through a notch, descended a steep gully and entered the main shale gully in the South Peak- South Spur Saddle. We were not sure if we should head up or down from here, so scouted around a bit and then decided on down. On the descent we discovered we should have headed up where there is an easy (but cliffier) sidle to enter the ramp leading onto the slab.
We continued up a very steep slope, the western face dropping off behind. The slab now loomed above us and a few minutes more, we were upon it. After crossing the slab a gully rose above, first a mere step away from the east face but shortly turns a corner, becoming more enclosed. The second ledge is probably the sketchiest and has a fixed rope, which we did not trust. The gully is short and after a few overhanging chockstone manoveurs we arrived on the very roomy summit. The actual summit lies 30m further on in the way of a small pinnacle rising above the east face. and what a spectacular summit and climb it is. Easily my favourite to date; the summit itself and the very varied journey to the summit. Starting from the lake, cross button grass and dry eucalypt forest, rainforest, then boulders and finally open rock.
After some watering back at camp we continued slowly in the heat up the old route to the Pool of Memories, this track was a highlight of my trip.
Geryon is a constant back drop and all the walking is very pleasant. After taking a few photos at the PoM we decided to keep going to Lake Elysia because of the swampy, reedy quality at the pool. This was a good decision as the campsites there are so much nicer. Despite being a fine day Geryon and The Acropolis still put a fine light show on for us, turning shades all shades of orange.
Next morning we had a semi late start, retracing our steps to the Pool of Memories. Continuing round on what we thought was the track to the plateau soon petered into pads. We soon found the track leaving from the flats of the pools itself and stopped frequently for breaks in the heat before reaching the plateau edge. We headed for Eros first and reached high point in the plateau, seeing a large gap between us and it. So instead we headed for Helious, then up onto Hyperion. There were a few false leads and very little cairning; the best way to describe the climb is simply to stick to the ridge line. Soon the climb we had heard so much about was above. The first was ascended easily, arriving on the halfway ledge. I tried the left climb which looked much easier but appeared to be barred by a cliff at the top. This is true, but on the way down we discovered it can easily be climbed by exiting the notch to the right. The right hand climb was much more technical.
Before long we were on top and enjoying the views to lake Helious below and the impressive face of Geryon. We continued on to our next objective, Eros, where runners, no gaiters and shorts enjoyed a nice cocktail of knee high mature botanical specials. The views of Hyperion were quite impressive but soon we continued on, back to the plateau and water. A relaxing lunch by a series of tarns was taken with plenty of watering and a refreshing wade. The heat was still quite intense, but we pushed on to Geryon North. We followed a reasonable pad most of the way to the notch before the peak proper which is easily crossed without the jump. There were probably 2 or 3 major climbing sections before the top, the last I didn't like so much. Basically you sidle a ledge system, step on a rock wedged in a crack up to another ledge then cross an awkward chockstone to safety.
Wind was howling a cross the face and I was exhausted, but truth be told I don't like crossing ledges. Climbing in gullies doesn't worry me much, but ledges like that so for some reason. 10m or so further on the summit is reached, completely composed of bare rock and a rock jutting up to mark the summit. The summit is much more compact than Geryon South. A perfect milestone for pazzar's 300 points! On the return we climbed the Du Cane high point before making quick progress to Lake Elysia for a late tea after conversing with forum member Tas Adam.
All up, a great little trip, with all goals accomplished and weather to match. Couldn't ask for much more!
- Sunrise, Narcissus
He generously waited for me at the hut for about 40mins, me taking about 2:20hrs. 10mins later we were away and soon crossed the log marking the start of the old Geryon campsite track. The first 50m were well defined but after that great care was need to follow the track. The track crosses some of the most beautiful rainforest along with the various falls and deep eddies along Cephissus Creek. After a few leads and an hour twenty we were at the camp, getting ready for the ascent of Geryon South. I opted to carry only a few things in my pockets and donned runners for the climb.
The ascent began through Pandani abundant rainforest with small ledges every now and then until we emerged at the bottom of the scree slope. The first 5mins were over pleasant medium sized boulders which then changed to annoying loose rock, a pain on the descent. In about 15mins we were at the base of the first cliff where a short climb leads onto a ramp, wrapping round the southern side of the South Spur. A nice little bivvy cave was passed before we reached the Acropolis- South Spur Saddle, later to realise this was because we kept too high. The Acropolis is very impressive from here. We then kept heading along the South Spur and just before the top decided to correct the route after encoutering a sketchy sidle above the east face. It was down again from here and the correct ledge was attained soon enough. Again, we kept going and found a rap station instead of a descent route. We retraced our steps and came across the correct gully 2mins later, leading to another sidle. Then through a notch, descended a steep gully and entered the main shale gully in the South Peak- South Spur Saddle. We were not sure if we should head up or down from here, so scouted around a bit and then decided on down. On the descent we discovered we should have headed up where there is an easy (but cliffier) sidle to enter the ramp leading onto the slab.
- The Notorius Slab
We continued up a very steep slope, the western face dropping off behind. The slab now loomed above us and a few minutes more, we were upon it. After crossing the slab a gully rose above, first a mere step away from the east face but shortly turns a corner, becoming more enclosed. The second ledge is probably the sketchiest and has a fixed rope, which we did not trust. The gully is short and after a few overhanging chockstone manoveurs we arrived on the very roomy summit. The actual summit lies 30m further on in the way of a small pinnacle rising above the east face. and what a spectacular summit and climb it is. Easily my favourite to date; the summit itself and the very varied journey to the summit. Starting from the lake, cross button grass and dry eucalypt forest, rainforest, then boulders and finally open rock.
- Geryon from Below
After some watering back at camp we continued slowly in the heat up the old route to the Pool of Memories, this track was a highlight of my trip.
- Pool of Memories
Geryon is a constant back drop and all the walking is very pleasant. After taking a few photos at the PoM we decided to keep going to Lake Elysia because of the swampy, reedy quality at the pool. This was a good decision as the campsites there are so much nicer. Despite being a fine day Geryon and The Acropolis still put a fine light show on for us, turning shades all shades of orange.
Next morning we had a semi late start, retracing our steps to the Pool of Memories. Continuing round on what we thought was the track to the plateau soon petered into pads. We soon found the track leaving from the flats of the pools itself and stopped frequently for breaks in the heat before reaching the plateau edge. We headed for Eros first and reached high point in the plateau, seeing a large gap between us and it. So instead we headed for Helious, then up onto Hyperion. There were a few false leads and very little cairning; the best way to describe the climb is simply to stick to the ridge line. Soon the climb we had heard so much about was above. The first was ascended easily, arriving on the halfway ledge. I tried the left climb which looked much easier but appeared to be barred by a cliff at the top. This is true, but on the way down we discovered it can easily be climbed by exiting the notch to the right. The right hand climb was much more technical.
Before long we were on top and enjoying the views to lake Helious below and the impressive face of Geryon. We continued on to our next objective, Eros, where runners, no gaiters and shorts enjoyed a nice cocktail of knee high mature botanical specials. The views of Hyperion were quite impressive but soon we continued on, back to the plateau and water. A relaxing lunch by a series of tarns was taken with plenty of watering and a refreshing wade. The heat was still quite intense, but we pushed on to Geryon North. We followed a reasonable pad most of the way to the notch before the peak proper which is easily crossed without the jump. There were probably 2 or 3 major climbing sections before the top, the last I didn't like so much. Basically you sidle a ledge system, step on a rock wedged in a crack up to another ledge then cross an awkward chockstone to safety.
- Geryon from Hyperion
Wind was howling a cross the face and I was exhausted, but truth be told I don't like crossing ledges. Climbing in gullies doesn't worry me much, but ledges like that so for some reason. 10m or so further on the summit is reached, completely composed of bare rock and a rock jutting up to mark the summit. The summit is much more compact than Geryon South. A perfect milestone for pazzar's 300 points! On the return we climbed the Du Cane high point before making quick progress to Lake Elysia for a late tea after conversing with forum member Tas Adam.
All up, a great little trip, with all goals accomplished and weather to match. Couldn't ask for much more!