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Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Fri 24 Jan, 2014 11:27 am
by nitro
Hey all,
Not sure if this is right area for this post. If not mods, feel free to move to correct area
I've recently developed an interest in alpine trekking and mountaineering, been something on my wish list for a long time now. But I can't see much info on how to get into it here, without going to New Zealand, and doing a course over there. Seen the ANU Mountaineering club site. Would this be a good start? Does anyone know much about this particular club?
Cheers
nitro

Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Fri 24 Jan, 2014 11:36 am
by Giddy_up
Try here as well, another forum full of information.
http://www.chockstone.orgG_U
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Fri 24 Jan, 2014 11:46 am
by nitro
Thanks Giddy_up. I will have a look there too

Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Fri 24 Jan, 2014 1:33 pm
by Moondog55
First off get a seasons experience in snow here if you can, read all you can and then perhaps do one of the beginners courses in NZ
Do you already rock climb?
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Fri 24 Jan, 2014 2:13 pm
by nitro
Hey Moondog55,
That's what I was hoping to do first. Been reading on it lately, and was hoping to head down to snow this season. Just got to find some safety in numbers type thing/group.
I do rock climb too, and am currently training daily to get into better shape.
Thanks for the reply mate

Think the NZ courses are a top idea.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Fri 24 Jan, 2014 2:23 pm
by Moondog55
Are you aware of the Falls Creek trip I'm planning?
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Fri 24 Jan, 2014 2:48 pm
by nitro
No mate. Don't know anything about it. Only very fresh to the forum. Which section is it in?
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Fri 24 Jan, 2014 3:48 pm
by Moondog55
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14698viewtopic.php?f=15&t=15245It may not be what you are looking for but it is a chance to get some snow under your boots in a relatively safe environment
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Sun 26 Jan, 2014 10:56 am
by nitro
Thanks again Moondog55,
If it's ok mate, i'll PM you, regarding the details. Looks like it would be a blast.
Cheers
nitro
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Sun 26 Jan, 2014 2:24 pm
by Moondog55
No problems
Serious planning only starts in May anyway. Until then I'm simply working on my own gear and my own needs
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Sun 26 Jan, 2014 6:05 pm
by doogs
mountains 
On a serious note try some winter walking around the snowy areas of the mainland, not Tasmania as we don't get decent snows during the winter down here. After thatdo some guided walks and courses in New Zealand. Try sending a PM to Ninjapuppet, he started on here as a bushwalker and has done a fair bit of mountaineering now. He still pops his head in from time to time

Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Sun 26 Jan, 2014 10:05 pm
by mikethepike
I originally did trips to NZ solely for my interest in mountain climbing and with a rock-climbing background, initially did the beginner and medium courses at Mt Cook. After that, it was a matter of teaming up with someone. People will make judgments about who they team up with because you will be venturing into a potentially dangerous environment. The usual way is to get together with someone with about the same climbing standard and experience and go into the mountains and gradually build up your experience, although some exceptional climbers seem to jump in at the deep end and have great success. Alternatively you could do what most European climbers do and get some instruction in the rather more crowded European Alps. If you have a strong rock-climbing background, and compared with NZ, this is the environment you could really appreciate and shine in. I went back to NZ last year - my first visit for 40 years - to go tramping, not mountaineering, and it brought home to me just how totally different the two experiences are, in outlook and in almost every way.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Mon 27 Jan, 2014 3:50 am
by radson
I dont know if there is really much merit doing anything in Australia. Get to NZ and do some mountaineering. Alpine Guides, AC and Aspiring Guides all do beginner courses or TMC. As others have suggested, get your ropework dialled in by rock climbing, especially multi-pitch stuff.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Mon 27 Jan, 2014 4:52 am
by Lophophaps
Having rock climbing experience is good in that you will know about knots, belays and the like. The more serious alpine routes require a certain amount of fitness and stamina, and these will greatly assist anywhere. There's ice climbing in parts of the Main Range. I've been to Blue Lake and Watsons Crags. Whilst not far to ski in the pack weight of weekend snow gear and climbing gear makes it a tad hard. No matter - think of the access as training.
If ice climbing in the Snowies, consider staying for 3-5 days, maybe longer. This will give the weather and conditions a chance to be satisfactory, and spreads out the effort of access a bit better. Also, the difference in weight for an extra few days is not that significant.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Mon 27 Jan, 2014 2:04 pm
by nitro
Awesome, thanks for the replies, doogs, mikethepike, radson and lophophaps.
Really thinking serious about just a course in NZ to get into it. Especially with our limited alpine timeframe here in the snowy. Was looking at heading down in August to around blue lake area or nearby. Just need to work out logistics of it all. Certainly think NZ would be a goer for some good courses though. Even just to meet some other people into it.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Mon 27 Jan, 2014 5:55 pm
by Lophophaps
August on the Main Range tends to be bit wild. (Anywhere on the MR in winter is wild, but July and August more so.) I'm tending towards late August or September for a slightly higher chance of better conditions. Access is a tedious slog. You may be able to get in from Charlottes Pass. I've always gone in from Guthega. We used to camp on Blue Lake. This is no longer allowed. You should be a good skier, and be able to master the Telemark-cartwheel stop, with and without an ice axe.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Wed 29 Jan, 2014 4:36 pm
by nitro
Hey Lophophags,
Are you going to be skiing in there mate?
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Wed 29 Jan, 2014 7:00 pm
by roysta
Nitro, have a look at these people if you're considering a climbing course in NZ.
They are very good, believe me.
http://www.alpinerecreation.com/
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Wed 29 Jan, 2014 8:07 pm
by Lophophaps
Nitro, my skiing is a bit closer to home. Damn! I wish I had a digital camera when I was climbing at Watsons and Feathertop. Can't post any pics, can I? The weather was not especially kind.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Thu 30 Jan, 2014 7:12 pm
by durks
mikethepike wrote:... Alternatively you could do what most European climbers do and get some instruction in the rather more crowded European Alps ...
The traditional entry point for British climbers has always been just to go out to the Alps (and even more specifically: to Chamonix) with mates - or perhaps fellow climbing club members, in the case of University students - and just start doing it! Of course, some people take instruction courses too and, for example, the Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust funds courses (
http://www.pyb.co.uk/courses-conville-alpine.php) which are very affordable.
To the OP: the obvious route for people based in Australia is an alpine course in New Zealand. *If* you do decide to do that, then, in order to get the most out of it, make sure you are hill-fit before you go, and ideally get some rock-climbing under your belt beforehand. There can be a lot going on in the mountains: if you're knackered, and if everything (ropework, glacier travel, climbing technique, etc. etc.) is coming at you all at once, then it might be a little wearing.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Fri 31 Jan, 2014 2:31 am
by radson
urggh, how could I forget Alpine Recreation. They are a great company.
Shameless self promotion but check out my video on their Mt Cook page
http://www.alpinerecreation.com/mtcook.html
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Fri 31 Jan, 2014 6:29 pm
by roysta
I'd forgotten about that video, nice to view it again.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Sat 01 Feb, 2014 10:02 am
by wayno
start climbing around queenstown wanaka area with guides, then move on to mt cook once you've got more experience, mt cook area is a magnet for bad weather, you're probably more likely to be held up by bad weather there than other areas in NZ.
if youre getting into the serious alpine stuff, you need to keep your hand in reasonably regularly to keep your skill level up... if you cant climb several times a year you might have to go back and doa refresher course to sharpen your skills before taking on another climb.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Sun 02 Feb, 2014 12:52 pm
by climberman
run hills. a lot of them.
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Sun 02 Feb, 2014 2:57 pm
by nitro
Cheers lads! Can't believe the amazing response in this thread. Really pointing me in the right direction. So now, training will be increased, to improve on fitness some more. Next, is looking into a NZ training course in the not too distant future, while honing up on multi pitch work and additional rope practice around here.
Will check out alpinerecreation to see a good intro course.
Keeping Your Mountain Guide from Killing You, and Vice Versa
Posted: Sun 02 Feb, 2014 3:01 pm
by wayno
Keeping Your Mountain Guide from Killing You, and Vice Versa
http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/01 ... ice-versa/
Re: Keeping Your Mountain Guide from Killing You, and Vice V
Posted: Sun 02 Feb, 2014 10:04 pm
by Lophophaps
wayno wrote:Keeping Your Mountain Guide from Killing You, and Vice Versa
I have not been that high on Everest, and Malte Brun is just a shade lower. However, I find the idea of the client not killing the guide and vice versa appealing. Mention should be made of crevasses, avos, rockfall and other alpine conditions. Slipping on grass on a high pass is also ill-advised.
Re: Keeping Your Mountain Guide from Killing You, and Vice V
Posted: Sun 02 Feb, 2014 10:22 pm
by nitro
Great link there Wayno. Especially for noobs like me

RECENT ACCOUNT OF SUMMITING MT COOK
Posted: Mon 03 Feb, 2014 10:19 am
by wayno
Re: Interested in mountaineering, where to start looking?
Posted: Mon 03 Feb, 2014 10:25 am
by wayno
realise what you are getting into, on my alpine club course, we were told point blank, if you persist with alpine mountaineering you will eventually know someone personally who dies in the sport, if its not you that dies.
200 fatalities in mt cook national park.
80 dead on mt taranaki..