The perfect bushwalking light solution

[Ent]

Hi

Now what is the perfect bushwalking light solution? Well one thing for certain what is "perfect" for some will be "horrible" for others so lets ignore Nirvana and work on the individual's solution rather than aiming for the workers' paradise of the socialistic state.

For me I like a lot of light and not so concerned about weight and cost. If it works well for me then stuff it I will have two tends to be the Ent way. The solution to the ideal light may or may not be held in a local shop. One thing is certain there is a huge difference in quality of design both user interface and the dark deep geek things like voltage regulation along with construction quality. The advent of the LED changed the game so long run times became an option and voltage regulation started to play an increasingly important role.

In the past lights started out bright and got dim as the battery voltage dropped. With earlier LED you could actually damage the light by using Lithium batteries and conversely got lower light levels from rechargeables. With voltage regulation a LED is driven at its most efficient voltage so as the battery voltage drops the electronics kick in and bring up the voltage. Now there is no such thing as a free lunch and this trickery will draw some current so in poor designs you get a bright light for a shorter period of time. Also some regulation systems cause flicker which annoys a few people but goes unnoticed by others.

Battery type is not a huge factor in rechargeable lights performance. Sure you have AA/AAA in lithium, alkaline and NiMh (Nicad have died off) that many are familiar with but they now have L-ion sized equivalents such as the 14500 which is the AA form. In addition you have the super cells like the 18650 that make flame thrower an accruate description for light output.

I am a magpie and love bright shiny things so have collected a range. Similar to some people's love of stoves. As my dear friends say, everyone needs a hobby.

What I like is a throwing light (distance and narrow beam) for occasional spot the marker or find the disappearing toilet use and a floody beam for general use. Also I tend to like to hang my headlamp above the work area rather than around my head. After some thinking and chin wagging I have become the fan of having a main headlamp and a light weight backup rather than carrying spare batteries (but still have not got out of the habit of carrying batteries). Just as an aside has anyone tried changing a multi-battery pack in the darkest of nights. Having a backup does make sense Also things fail.

I am looking at using a main headlamp for mainly fixed use, a small headlamp as backup (sits in my day pack for a peak bagging effort running overtime) and torch to act as "throwing" beam. I can hear the UL converts running for cover but as said perfect for the individual not a socialistic or would be world dictator's view.

Anyway here is photograph of a few (yes, really they are mine for the lover of question marks after that word). I will write a about a few, and yes, it is my view and prejudice it will be. Sorry I have not mastered the art of dividing nor walking on water but another swim dip in a cold lake might just encourage me to find out how

Attachments

Part of the obsession.

[Nuts]

How many lights does a Tasmanian need Thats silly, getting it wrong so many times

[icemancometh]

Surprised you don't have a Petzl or two in there...

Haven't used this generation of BDs but the last one was average construction quality, ie it would actually break at the swivel point after not a lot of use. And they refused to replace it. The new Spot does look good but haven't used one to compare to the Petzl so no inclination to upgrade. One feature I would like to see put in is an infrared sensor for cold wx.

Instead of trying to operate little fiddly buttons (no matter how good the design they really are just fiddly when they can only be so small) why not use a sensor so no buttons are needed after the initial press. Surprisingly, Kathmandu are the only ones I've seen (doesn't mean there's not others out there) who do it, though the actual torch is not great.

[Strider]

Nice collection. I too have a SS Fenix LD01

Might I ask why you're not happy with the Zebralight's?

[corvus]

Hey Ent ,
Illuminating display ! you have nearly as many lights as I have stoves (I do have a couple of duplications) so I guess you win the numbers game however I do have at least ten or twelve lights at last count and Nuts "evil men do drastic deeds in the darkness" to paraphrase something I read ,so perhaps we Tasmanians rather than many lights just need many good men :lol
corvus

[photohiker]

Jeepers. I've just got a Black Diamond something or other. Its brilliant and has lasted for years...

[Ent]

Oh hum, to quote Bob Hope "the critics are bad around here" Usual suspects I see O'well it must be their hobby. Hey there might be an opening in the new Muppet Movie in the balcony or the peanut gallery

Cheers

Last edited by Ent on Tue 24 Jan, 2012 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

[Ent]

Nice collection. I too have a SS Fenix LD01

Might I ask why you're not happy with the Zebralight's?

Hi Strider (from Lord of the Rings?)

The headlamp "collection" is a work in progress and there are features that I like and dislike often in equal measure. The two Zebralights are the H31 and H51. AA and CR123 form factors respectively. The issue with the AA is a single AA is limited in lumen output and run life so changing a battery on a walk on a dark night is not a thing that I look forward to. No problem for those that like it dark but also when hanging it from a ceiling the battery fails rather quickly. Battery capacity, in both energy available, and maximum current draw, is a factor. The CR123 can kick out a claimed 220 lumens while the AA max out at 140-180 lumens. mAH is not the true guide as energy potential as the potential is a factor of amps times voltage so 1500 mAH for a CR123 might not sound not good against a 3000 mAH AA, but the CR123 is at twice the voltage so all things been equal the potential energy is the same.

The US military went with CR123 as AA had so many standards of performance that it made impossible to guarantee a certain performance. So a CR123 generally gives a very good base to build a light. Trouble is in Australia the CR123 are massively over priced. Seen more as camera battery (pre digital ones) than a light battery. I use L-ion CR123 in the CR123 Zebralight but they suddenly cut out at forty-five minutes due to the protection circuit kicking in. You will get double that from a primary cell (lithium) along with a gradual drop in light output as the voltage regulation can not keep up.

Frankly the CR123 Zebralight is the best bushwalking light where light output and run time plus weight compromise is needed but costs and arm and leg to run in Australia. In the States it is a legitimate light while in Australia it is seen as a plaything for the wealthy. I got a large number of CR123 from the states at $1 each so not so fazed by the running cost. I much prefer it over the AA version. It is more compact and lighter at 54 to 61 grams without batteries. A CR123 weighs in at 16 grams while AA lithium 15 grams, alkaline 23 grams and NiMh 31 grams. Not a huge difference but for some such is important. I do prefer a lighter lamp on my head though hence my preference to hang the light if possible. Main reason for my preference is the CR123 version has just a nice beam while the AA is not as good.

But all Zebralights have a complex light mode sequence. If you have ever used a Surefire with variable control by dial any "tap dancing" light control is barbaric by comparison.

Cheers

PS the UL mob would prefer the standard Fenix as much lighter but I love mine (yes I have both )

Last edited by Ent on Tue 24 Jan, 2012 10:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

[Ent]

Surprised you don't have a Petzl or two in there...

Haven't used this generation of BDs but the last one was average construction quality, ie it would actually break at the swivel point after not a lot of use. And they refused to replace it. The new Spot does look good but haven't used one to compare to the Petzl so no inclination to upgrade. One feature I would like to see put in is an infrared sensor for cold wx.

Instead of trying to operate little fiddly buttons (no matter how good the design they really are just fiddly when they can only be so small) why not use a sensor so no buttons are needed after the initial press. Surprisingly, Kathmandu are the only ones I've seen (doesn't mean there's not others out there) who do it, though the actual torch is not great.

My first LED head lamp was a Petzel but someone's need was greater than mine I just do not like them. For too long they dodged effective voltage regulation and traded on a massive price for a "simple" light plus did not run well on NiMh and claimed potential damage if run with lithium batteries. Plus many are not waterproof to internationally recognized standards. Now here is an issue. Petzel have a very loyal following and some will claim that the electronics are water resistant but fail testing because the battery compartment is not. The argument is, if you change a battery then your light will potentially get wet so Petzel has is right and the standard has it wrong. I will leave it up to others to debate that pro and con.

The newer Petzels are coming back and correcting many of the above issues. I like Princeton-tec but like Petzel they command a massive price compared to their performance. Game changers are Zebralight, Spark, etc. They are companies that have some very "bright" techs. I am not a tech but on Candlepower people will buy lights, rip them apart and test the voltage regulation. Most common bushwalking lights do not perform well.

The BD Storm is probably the best of the "well known" brands. Rather fussy in control and tries to be the Swiss Army light with flood, beam, and infra red. Also has an electronic lock out to avoid bump light switch on. Its use of four AAA in the space most only fit three is commendable but honestly they could of halved the running cost and used two AA instead. Why didn't they. Cheap voltage regulation. Easier to drop voltage than increase it (or so I am told) so start with a nominal 6 volts to drive 4.5 volt LEDs versus taking a nominal 3 volts and stepping it up to 4.5 volts. Also they have a fixed high to low output sequence so you blind everyone into losing their night version before the tap dance down to low, over shoot it and you then strobe everyone. It is frustrating that BD got such an innovative light and then stuffed up to the finer detail.

Cheers

[South_Aussie_Hiker]

Hi Ent.

Strange timing on your post, because I have been writing a bit of a Zebralight H501 review to post up in the next few days.

I have been nothing but impressed by the Zebralight and would never consider going back to any of my others which now sit idle in the back of my cupboard. In fact, I'd go as far as saying it's my favourite and best bit of kit in my entire pack.

You are obviously looking for very high light outputs, and as you said from a single AA this involves fairly high currents - which causes nuisance heat and wasted battery power. The H501 is the lightest in the range, only about 60grams including head strap and a lithium AA!

I can't imagine wanting more light than about 100 lumens - and that would only be for track running at night. Around camp I find the low settings quite bright enough, and the super low moon mode more than enough for reading. These settings (and the mid settings) are very efficient with very impressive run times. My H501 with one alkaline AA would easily do a 7 day trip if I avoided the high setting. I use a lithium AA just because they are lighter.

I have found the zebralight UI very easy to pickup and use. The strobing settings are, IMHO, a complete waste of time.

I'll post up my review when I get around to finishing it off.

[danpickard]

So you carry all these, plus spare batteries, for just in case?

Gotta love hikers and the collectors bug...man you can accumulate some stuff. With that collection, you should be right out on the track for the next three months

Cheers,
Dan

[AndyR]

I have a Princeton Tec APEX. I bought it when I was doing some field work in far north WA and the King Browns were active after dark so I wanted something that would give me lots of light. It has the low level LEDs on the side and higher intensity one in the middle and uses 4 AA in a watertight compartment so it's heavy compared with some of the other offerings but I still love it and don't really notice it when it's on my head. My only "gripe" is when you turn it on the default setting is high on either of the 2 LEDs so you have to press again to go to low but that probably reflects the fact that in my general use I'm now on low most of the time - in WA I was most definitely on high so didn't care. I like the fact I can turn it off without cycling through multiple modes.

In short I love it and it goes everywhere with me when I'm travelling

cheers, Andy

[Nuts]

I find it amusing, ent the maximalist walker... ha har

It's funny how others find the exact opposite. Petzl (to me) were a revolution with their big clunky zooms, i thought it was was so high tech. Not waterproof but good enough, corrosion could be a problem but they were easy to fix. The most reliable light iv'e owned is the little Petzl e-lite. The worst was a princeton tech that lasted until the battery compartment cracked at the first change.

A case of too much attention to forum gear discussions?

I also like that the Zebra comes on at high beam, you should never point a headlight at someone anyhow, its not a difficult habit to adopt...?

Not that there is anything 'wrong' with owning 400 headlights (gotta spend it somewhere right..) Just to say that a lot of fuss over gear is as much this mindset thing.

[shazcol]

Ent if you are worried about changing batteries in the dark and carrying a backup put one of these in your pocket or pack?

15g wind up 2 LED torch

WindUp.jpg (22.93 KiB) Viewed 4432 times

Only few $'s on Fleebay or a $ or 2 more at local stores, have one on my key ring and always have it in my pocket. Surprising how much I use it.

[Ent]

I always have a chuckle when people attempt to apply logic to other peoples interests/obsessions and then attempt to adopt a condescending superior point of view. “Do like me son and you will be right” appears to be the approach along with “do not waste your time and money” as they spend the national debt on their particular interest or addiction. Never aimed to be world dictator or purveyor of what is “right” but for others this is a natural state of their personality. O’well best of luck to those off to invade Poland and Russia this weekend.

Also fascinating what works for some and is hammered by others as a failure. Sometimes it is bad luck or management. Hard to tell at times. For me the Princeton-tec are probably the strongest built of the “commercial” headlamps. I love my Corona and gave my brother one as a Christmas present a few years back. His role is fixing farm machinery in the field and the light has withstood the elements and the harshness of that environment well. I have an Apex but with the 8 cell remote battery pack. Yes, it is overkill for bushwalking but it was brought with an eye to doing some caving. Here long run time is a very good thing. I run, or use to, with an EOS and that has never let me down. Still have a soft spot for the QUAD.

What makes a great light is a personal thing. You have the great white wall hunters that lambaste a light that shows any artifices and the minimalist that claim lumen power is a waste of time. For a good read, if you enjoy flame wars, is people that hold most lights’ low setting is not low enough. Some of the lumens that they state are one step from total darkness so you get you are “mad” going both ways. What we forget is some people see the world differently. But we have the socialist claiming what works for them must be the way for the masses.

I have large hands and fingers so fiddly controls are just not nice for me. Also, I like naturally intuitive interfaces. This means many lights tap sequences are annoying in use. Use a Surefire and you will subsequently find that most interfaces are rather clunky. This light is aimed at the serious search and rescue person. It has a lens that is near impossible to break and a battery pack that can hold three CR123 so run all night as well as be stripped down to a single CR123. Power output is rather modest at 100 lumens but in dark of night this is more than enough. The beam is optimised between throw and breath. Only thing I do not like about is the caste of the LED. It does appear to vary between lights and also people’s preference. For me it is rather too blue and muddy. Also it power management is smart enough to hang in when a Zebralight has chucked it in and switch off. That is in the CR123 version of the Zebralight as the AA seems to hang in well. The principle is better to have a dim light than no light.

Anyway interesting views even if some are typically predictable in their negativity.

Cheers

[Ent]

Hi

Spoted them but no sure on their ability to survive the patented Ent bucket of water test Still a good option. I cart in the car a "shaking" torch as the car environment is murder on batteries. Proved very handy when you get to a combination lock in darkness You can rely on that it will always work. Not the brightest light in the collection but great for its job. But way too heavy for bushwalking. Rather tempted by the button battery lights. I when backpacking had one always attached to my pack and great for map reading and figuring out tricky locks. Only trouble is they would get ripped off the pack during transport sections, so lost quite a few.

Cheers

[Nuts]

'I always have a chuckle when people attempt to apply logic to other peoples interests/obsessions and then attempt to adopt a condescending superior point of view. “Do like me son and you will be right” appears to be the approach along with “do not waste your time and money” as they spend the national debt on their particular interest or addiction. Never aimed to be world dictator or purveyor of what is “right” but for others this is a natural state of their personality. O’well best of luck to those off to invade Poland and Russia this weekend'


(Ha Har, O c'mon petal, it is a different point of view not Mein Kampf. I think everyone knows yer a big bloke & like yer comforts. Now that you have big hands and own a lot of lights Youv'e obviously done a bit of research and can advise on a number of different models, this will be of interest to some so it's a useful post. What else is there? Meh, pick the useful contributions, ignore the rest. That's what i do with your posts , above all they are entertaining so i'll back off if your going to get precious, i'd rather you keep on posting )

[icemancometh]

I agree. the e-lite is great emergency light and is always in my pack. So never have to worry about changing batts in the dark. I could find it blindfolded as it lives in the same spot of every pack. At 28g or whatever, it could literally save your life.

The Storm is too heavy and I don't need that much light.
I'm really only interested in the under 100g weight range at present.

I've got maybe 3 or 4 headtorches and thought that was bad (I only use 3 regularly, one is the elite, one is the Tikka XP? and one is a BD night running light...wide beam, bright and given to me), but Ent you make me feel better.

[sailfish]

Hi Ent,

Ledlenser H7 seems to fit your requirements. Spot and flood focus loads of light @ 170 L, dimmable 20 ma to 120 ma long burn life.

Regards,
Ken

[Ent]

Hi Nuts

No problems. Good to be challenged at times for what we do and always good to have a stop and think then ignore the critics and plough on I am a magpie and like bright and shiny things and short of having a family unlikely to change. Actually I do enjoy your PM comments on items (especially shelters) and wish that more could see them but as you said posting reviews brings up flame wars ever so easily.

Now back to lights. I did look at the Laser but something did not thrill me with it. That does not mean it is not good, just not me.

Anyway, on battery technology and the trade-offs.

In the picture of the first post are three lights of interest from Jetbeam.

One is a AA format PA01 that weighs 27 grams with lithium battery and throws out 140 lumens (all lumens are claimed not tested)
One is AA format PA10 that can take a 14500 cell that weighs 67 grams with 14500 protected cell and chucks out 650 lumens
One is the 18650 format RRT-21 that is a very powerful battery that weighs 131 grams with a 18650 protected cell and chucks out 460 lumens

Hang on, the one in the middle is not right. Well it is, as the 14500 is L-ion and Jetbeam took the punt that the expected buyer is not terminally stupid so threw out the recommended current draw limits so it is a vampire drawing at above idiot proof limits of the cell. This means hot and short battery life in more than just output if not used with care. It is a thirty minute light sabre. Its role for me will be the "thrower" that can find those missing markers in the night. Put in a NiMh and it drops down to 140 lumens. It can with that battery drop down to lower lumen levels but with the 14500 has only the 650 lumen output.

The RRT-21 is designed as security guard light so infinitely variable and capable with care of doing the night shift with the ability to max out for a bit of distant work. But too heavy for a bushwalking light.

Also curious is lumens are not the only thing that count. The RRT-21 has a bigger reflector and lens so despite the 460 lumen count matches and betters the 650 lumen count of its smaller brother in the real world. But when I have lug it largely unused I can accept the trade-off.

It is interesting to see the geek battery formats slowly taking over the main stream but I do hope that the pressure of being idiot proof for the mass market does not result in lights been dumb down.

So now I have the "perfect" long distance thrower so I can concentrate on a sensible headlamp for night walking. Here a thrower is not required, in fact downright annoying as a pencil point of light is not what is needed when navigating a path over an "uncool" section of track. Instead a floody light is the go with long battery life. But this is the next post.

Cheers