The White Needle

[MJD]

I was rummaging through my books and found a 1979 Climbers Guide to Frechmans Cap. Pity I didn't find it a week ago, which would have been before , rather than after, we went for a walk out that way. Anyway here are a couple of interesting bits about the White Needle.

I've also added a picture taken from below Philps Peak. This was the point that we changed our minds about heading for the White Needle, though at the time it would appear that what we thought was the White Needle was in fact Pike Head. The White Needle appears to be the bit on the end near the Barron Pass. Anyway, I particularly like the bit about "...the return trip can be made in little more than an hour by..." Anyone want to tell all those parties who have been having a bit of trouble out there lately.

[pazzar]

One hour is probably not that unreasonable. A mate and I had a go, we made it 3/4 of the way before we decided it too windy to continue up the next airy ledge. We had only been gone 20 minutes. It didn't take anywhere near as long to get back down. I think in good weather it could be done in 45 minutes. Next time.....

[ILUVSWTAS]

That hr is for the full traverse I think Jared, not just the climb up from Barron pass.....

[pazzar]

I don't think so, it says that Barron Pass to Philps is 6 hours, but the return trip is 1hr

[ILUVSWTAS]

Yeh, so Philps to Barron pass, 1hr.... ? Forget it!!

[pazzar]

Maybe in a helicopter.....

[ILUVSWTAS]

Maybe in a helicopter.....

Ha! Yes, basejumpers maybe??

[mjdalessa]

Surprised I haven't seen that before. Someone's put it on thesarvo. They sure do have some interesting route descripitions on there, like ascend N. Geryon from the valley.

[weetbix456]

anythings possible if ya got the balls boy

[north-north-west]

Surprised I haven't seen that before. Someone's put it on thesarvo. They sure do have some interesting route descripitions on there, like ascend N. Geryon from the valley.

Reminds me of when I had to replace the speedo cable in a car. Four steps listed in the manual:
1) Remove engine . . .

[pazzar]

The climb up the White Needle is relatively simple. The directions in the article are accurate. We sidled through the gap on the left and climbed the ridge on the western side to the summit ridge. The Pikehead is the slightly higher peak behind the white needle, which takes a further 15 minutes to climb. The needle itself took us no more than an hour from Barron Pass. Philps looked so close!

[ILUVSWTAS]

So why is the point on the white needle if the pike is higher?? Goes against the logic of the peakbagging list does it not? Bit of a joke!!

[pazzar]

It is a bit silly, but I didn't write the list!

[ILUVSWTAS]

VERY silly. How can one rule say you have to touch the very highest point, when the highest point is actually the next peak 100m away...

[mjdalessa]

I have a feeling the left side (which I ascended) is even easier again. Barely any rock, just steep slopes where a slip could be fun. I climbed Pike Head too because I was in doubt that what I was on was the needle, found some very in interesting chasms tilted on 45 degree angles and some sketchy scrambling. 25mins to the needle, a further 30mins to Pike head. Needle only took 15mins to get down.

[pazzar]

I think from your description, the Eastern side is much scarier and more dangerous. I never felt that a fall would be fatal on the western side. There was always a solid buffer between the lead and the cliff face. Anyway, its not the sort of climb we should be giving too many details on, it is potentially dangerous and to advertise a route up would be irresponsible. If anyone wants info on how to get up, send me a PM.

[mjdalessa]

"Alternatively, keep to the left of the ridge where there is a scrub clutching scramble to the top." Agreed. It's far from safe, i was clutching onto scrub whilst sidling above high cliffs on VERY steep slopes. More dangerous than anything on either of the Geryons, one particular bit on G. N. did scare me more though. One spot you have to climb up 3m, get a leg over a knife edge and work your way to another slope, nice unobstructed view of Lake Vera below too.

EDIT: When it says 6hrs up, one down I think its probably talking about climbing one way, walking on the way back?