by radson » Wed 20 Mar, 2013 3:42 pm
Because the whole article is breathlessly trying to equate HA climbing with competition and doping. It is not a competition and there are no prizes for first or fastest. Dex is not a performance enhancer. It basically may just stop your head exploding. My mate Mike who had HACE at the South summit was convinced that people were trying to make him suck cyanide bottles and throw him of the Kangshung face. A dex shot may have just made him rational enough to descend. Dex, Diamox etc doesnt make you stronger it just may stop you from dying. Its like saying Aspirin is a performance enhancer because it reduces a headache. Caffeine, Amphetamines, Oxygen enhance performance. Dex and Diamox do not. Lastly Dr Hackett's controversial position about taking dex prophylactically is just an idea to stop people dying above Camp 4.
With Outside of late it seems if climbers weren't carrying Dex, then they would hand-wring of irresponsible climbers not carrying life saving medication to save themselves and other climbers.