Seleting a walk route in Tasmania

[rbrand]

Hello All,

I would appreciate if group members could provide some input on walk routes in Tasmania

I'm traveling to Australia this December for about three weeks, and will spend about a 10 days in Tasmania. I'm looking for a walk of 4-6 days and a circuit would make logistics easier. Regardless, I'll have to rely on public transport or a shuttle service. Finally, I am mostly interested in mountainous regions. I live in Hawaii so resources on walking in Tasmania or Australia in general are limited, but TASMAP has been very useful. I was considering the Overland Track, but it is full and I'm not too keen on being on the track with 50+ people. The Western Arthurs Travese is very attractive and seems the kind of walk I like, but resources I've seen indicate it may be a little dangerous for a solo walker. On the other hand, resources often overblow the risks!

So, I may be narrowing it down to the Walls of Jerusalem area, and perhaps connecting to the Cradle Mountain area. A few blogs have described a route that goes west from WoJ to CM and uses part of the Overland, which is apparently OK to do without a permit as long as one is only using a section of the Overland. For this route most folks, discuss crossing the Mersey River in the Never Never. A couple of variations on this route looks interesting to me and involve some bushwalking, but I've not found discussed anywhere. One is to head south on the WoJ track to Solomons Throne area then follow track past Lakes Adelaide and Meston. The variation would be to pick up the track that near Clarke Falls the traveres the Traveller Range, then try and find a route down to St. Clair area. Another potential variation would be to skip the Traveller Range section, instead making a circut using the track that passes Cathedral Mountain & Bishop Peak, works over to Nescient Peak back up to the original trailhead.

I would appreciate input on the feasibility of these routes and how much time would be involved. As wel, I would also appreciate members input on which route would be
"best." This may be my only opportunity to bushwalk in Tasmania so I want to make the most of it. Finally, any input on other routes would be welcome.

For some background, I will be hiking solo. I am fit, a relatively fast walker, and have fairly extensive experience hiking, backpacking, climbing in the western USA (Alaska, Rocky Mountains, and deserts), as well internationally in NZ, Scotland, and Latin America.

Thanks,
Brand

[Nuts]

I don't think there is a public trans option for WoJ? There are a few charters go out there.. Personally, i'd visit them separately, a few days around Cradle Mt. a few at the Walls, the walk between is relatively long with not many highlights, so too missing the Overland highlights joining so far south (it's expected you exit south to lake St Clair).. maybe Mt Anne for something a bit more adventurous, for a few days? Unless your coming back again there are too many diverse opportunities, even limited to more alpine areas, so much to see. Can you hire a car? Besides the OLT, few public transport options.

WA's are spectacular, not unheard of to do solo (with some experience & great care) but would take up most of that time available?

[Hermione]

There's so much to see it's hard to choose, but if you want a reasonable multi day walk rather than visiting a few places separately I think WOJ would be good. Coming from mainland Australia I've often found it easier to manage transport with a circuit walk. Also you can then usually leave the rest of your belongings somewhere nearby (I assume you're not coming from Hawaii with only walking gear?). WoJ has a lot of scope for different circuits , the walking is generally pretty easy and you have fantastic views towards the mountains of Overland track from a number of places (weather permitting). You could still head across the Traveller range if you wanted, drop down onto the Overland and then back up to the WoJ via the NeverNever or something similar. Yes you'll miss the highlights of the Overland but you'll also miss the crowds.
If you hire a car you could park at WoJ and then you've got no problem with pick up when you finish your walk, though it does mean leaving the car in a quite isolated spot. I've also found the people at Mole Creek hotel (closest town) quite helpful, last time we parked here and left our luggage and they dropped us and picked us up from WoJ. Plus this worked out cheaper than commercial track transport from Launceston or Hobart. Although seeing as it's peak holiday season you might be able to share transport, Outdoor Tasmania operating from Launceston have a list of their bookings online so you can see if any suit your dates http://www.outdoortasmania.com.au/media ... eboard.pdf.
I haven't done the Western Arthurs yet so I can't really comment but like Nuts says I think it would use up most of your time and you'd need to allow some days for possible bad weather. Have you considered the Du Cane Traverse? That way you could head in and out from lake St Clair, but you'd need decent weather. Have a look at this thread viewtopic.php?f=42&t=11306.
Aside from the most well tracked areas a lot of this walking would be on a rough track/pad or off track so you need some navigational ability, which presumably you have
Anyway there are plenty of Tasmanians on this forum who know a lot more about their state than I do so they should be able to give you better advice.

[Azza]

The Western Arthurs Travese is very attractive and seems the kind of walk I like, but resources I've seen indicate it may be a little dangerous for a solo walker. On the other hand, resources often overblow the risks!

Would be fine for an experienced walker and you wouldn't be alone in December.
The track is well formed until Lake Oberon, beyond there it gets a bit more interesting. Perhaps the biggest issue these days is there are a number of false leads particular around the beggary bumps section where its easy to get mislead.
It is possible to get to Lake Oberon and return from there. Beyond there is a lot of scrambling, up and down with a pack on - lots of fun if your into climbing. You are committed though once past Oberon.
You would need 6 days to do an A-K trip. Its feasible for a fit walker, but you wouldn't have much contingency time and it would mean pushing on regardless of the weather.
i.e. Car Park - Cygnus - Oberon - High Moor - Haven Pk - Junction Ck / Car Park (4-5 nights)

You are probably going to have a hire a car as transport options are expensive and probably not going to be very convenient or an effective use of time.

I would also say be-careful about off track routes in Tasmania.. our scrub is pretty fierce and probably unlike what you would have experience elsewhere walking. People underestimate it.
However with the options you have listed there is nothing that stands out as being full on, its generally more of an issue in the SW..

Central Plateau / WOJ / Travellers is generally pretty easy going off track.

[stepbystep]

Frenchmans Cap. You can get a Tassielink bus to the trackhead. It's an outstanding walk over 4-6 days.

[Nuts]

True, (FC) if struggling to meet the outgoing service there's a local scuttle (to at least get back to Lake St Clair for other transport hookups): 0428308813

[rbrand]

Hello Nuts,

Thanks for the great info. It's really helpful to know the areas between the Walls and Cradle Mountain is short on highlights.

I can hire a car and I'll compare the cost of using a charter vs. a hire. I'll probably not attempt the WAs on this, but maybe keep them in my back pocket on the off chance I get back to Taz.

Cheers,

I don't think there is a public trans option for WoJ? There are a few charters go out there.. Personally, i'd visit them separately, a few days around Cradle Mt. a few at the Walls, the walk between is relatively long with not many highlights, so too missing the Overland highlights joining so far south (it's expected you exit south to lake St Clair).. maybe Mt Anne for something a bit more adventurous, for a few days? Unless your coming back again there are too many diverse opportunities, even limited to more alpine areas, so much to see. Can you hire a car? Besides the OLT, few public transport options.

WA's are spectacular, not unheard of to do solo (with some experience & great care) but would take up most of that time available?

[rbrand]

Hello Hermione,

Thanks for all the great information. You gave me a lot to mull over. I had not heard of the DuCane Traverse, but it looks quite nice. One blog presented it as challenging, but another as med/difficult. Definitely worth investigating.

Cheers,

There's so much to see it's hard to choose, but if you want a reasonable multi day walk rather than visiting a few places separately I think WOJ would be good. Coming from mainland Australia I've often found it easier to manage transport with a circuit walk. Also you can then usually leave the rest of your belongings somewhere nearby (I assume you're not coming from Hawaii with only walking gear?). WoJ has a lot of scope for different circuits , the walking is generally pretty easy and you have fantastic views towards the mountains of Overland track from a number of places (weather permitting). You could still head across the Traveller range if you wanted, drop down onto the Overland and then back up to the WoJ via the NeverNever or something similar. Yes you'll miss the highlights of the Overland but you'll also miss the crowds.
If you hire a car you could park at WoJ and then you've got no problem with pick up when you finish your walk, though it does mean leaving the car in a quite isolated spot. I've also found the people at Mole Creek hotel (closest town) quite helpful, last time we parked here and left our luggage and they dropped us and picked us up from WoJ. Plus this worked out cheaper than commercial track transport from Launceston or Hobart. Although seeing as it's peak holiday season you might be able to share transport, Outdoor Tasmania operating from Launceston have a list of their bookings online so you can see if any suit your dates http://www.outdoortasmania.com.au/media ... eboard.pdf.
I haven't done the Western Arthurs yet so I can't really comment but like Nuts says I think it would use up most of your time and you'd need to allow some days for possible bad weather. Have you considered the Du Cane Traverse? That way you could head in and out from lake St Clair, but you'd need decent weather. Have a look at this thread viewtopic.php?f=42&t=11306.
Aside from the most well tracked areas a lot of this walking would be on a rough track/pad or off track so you need some navigational ability, which presumably you have
Anyway there are plenty of Tasmanians on this forum who know a lot more about their state than I do so they should be able to give you better advice.

[rbrand]

Hello Azza,

Thanks to you as well for all the great info. It's encouraging to learn that the WAT not as difficult as some have made out. As you note though, the overall amount of time would be the most challenging part. The tips on the off track walking are especially helpful. It's hard to get a sense of that from here in Hawaii. In the Rockies, especially alpine areas it is often quite easy to go off track, though there are areas where the bushwacking can get tough!

Cheers,

The Western Arthurs Travese is very attractive and seems the kind of walk I like, but resources I've seen indicate it may be a little dangerous for a solo walker. On the other hand, resources often overblow the risks!

Would be fine for an experienced walker and you wouldn't be alone in December.
The track is well formed until Lake Oberon, beyond there it gets a bit more interesting. Perhaps the biggest issue these days is there are a number of false leads particular around the beggary bumps section where its easy to get mislead.
It is possible to get to Lake Oberon and return from there. Beyond there is a lot of scrambling, up and down with a pack on - lots of fun if your into climbing. You are committed though once past Oberon.
You would need 6 days to do an A-K trip. Its feasible for a fit walker, but you wouldn't have much contingency time and it would mean pushing on regardless of the weather.
i.e. Car Park - Cygnus - Oberon - High Moor - Haven Pk - Junction Ck / Car Park (4-5 nights)

You are probably going to have a hire a car as transport options are expensive and probably not going to be very convenient or an effective use of time.

I would also say be-careful about off track routes in Tasmania.. our scrub is pretty fierce and probably unlike what you would have experience elsewhere walking. People underestimate it.
However with the options you have listed there is nothing that stands out as being full on, its generally more of an issue in the SW..

Central Plateau / WOJ / Travellers is generally pretty easy going off track.

[rbrand]

Hello stepbystep,

Thanks for the information. Frenchmapn's Cap is one of the walks that is mentioned frequently in the resources I've checked; however, I shied away from it because every time it was mentioned people also mention it being very wet and boggy. That seemed a red flag, especially since most walks in Tasmania seem to have some level of muck and rain.

In your opinion is FC any more mud-ridden or rainy than the other walks that I've mentioned or members have suggested for me?

Cheers,

Frenchmans Cap. You can get a Tassielink bus to the trackhead. It's an outstanding walk over 4-6 days.

[stepbystep]

Hello stepbystep,
In your opinion is FC any more mud-ridden or rainy than the other walks that I've mentioned or members have suggested for me?

I've just completed the walk two days ago, the new trackwork has bypassed the notorious mud. It's no longer a factor. Junction Creek and the Lake Judd track are far worse for mud.

[wobbly]

Hi Brand
I'd also recommend the Ducane traverse but only if you are genuinely experienced off track and the weather is kind. And if you like exposure a side trip up Geryon is doable. The Acropolis is probably a must seeing you are in the area.

Take a plb.

[Azza]

Hello stepbystep,
In your opinion is FC any more mud-ridden or rainy than the other walks that I've mentioned or members have suggested for me?

All the good walks have some degree of wet and bogginess... I think most visitors to Tasmania haven't necessarily encountered real mud.
Its all part of the experience and It's just what we're used to... Take Gaiters and prepare to get a bit messy..
So what visitors complain about is probably not a big deal to the locals.. like waist deep is what I consider to be real mud.

For many of the South West walks Frenchmans, Arthurs, Mt Anne circuit its on the lower altitude approaches.. you've got to get through the mud to get to/from the good stuff.
It also keeps the riff raff out to a degree...
.
So if a bit of knee deep stuff is an issue then that probably cancels out just about everything outside of the Cradle Mt / Lake St Clair area / Central Plateau area.
In general its not so boggy around those parts.
All the areas we are discussing here are in the West or South West.. they will pretty much cop the same wet weather.
Timing and luck goes a long way here, if you catch a good spell you'll wonder what everyone carries on about...
It's forecast to be a drier than normal spring / summer which will probably help dry things out..
Once on the old frenchmans track I walked in and it was so dry that I didn't get any mud on my boots... the surface had formed a hard crust..

I'd say you wouldn't be disappointed in Frenchmans or the DuCane Traverse. It's worth having a bit of time in reserve for the weather, so you get the views.... as its not uncommon to visit these place and see not much more than cloud, especially if your on a fixed itinerary.

[Nuts]

DuCane, Yes! See there are just too many I'd still choose a bit more diversity, 2/3 nights here or there, easier to manage if there is dodgy weather around (unless your into rock types and micro worlds), an overall impression of Tassie mtn landscapes.

DuCane Traverse/Circuit- clockwise, not ideal with a tight schedule but it keeps the bureaucrats happy.

[DaveNoble]

Hello Nuts,

Thanks for the great info. It's really helpful to know the areas between the Walls and Cradle Mountain is short on highlights.

!!! No - it is a really great walk, between the WOJ and the Overland Track - with a variety of route options available. I would think it of being of a scenic standard at least as good as doing the Overland Track itself. The most scenic routes do tend to be more off track and have some scrubby sections however. I would not call them hard - but they are more suitable for those with experience at off track walking in Tasmania.

A good place to visit for a week or more is to spend your time in the southern Reserve (The "Reserve" is the local name for the Cradle Mtn -Lake St Clair National Park) - you can reach Lake St Clair by bus, and there is camping and other accommodation available, then you walk up the lake (nice track through forest), and then up to Pine Valley. This is a good base for walks and a good place to sit out bad weather. You do need to note that in summer to expect rain on about 50% of days - so you do need to have flexible plans. Walking low down in forests is OK in bad weather, but its best then to avoid the tops. As others have suggested - a traverse of part or all of the Du Cane Range is a very worthwhile trip - but it is strongly recommended to do it during a spell of good weather. And you do need to have a good stormproof tent.

[Hermione]

Totally agree with DaveNoble on this, so I'm glad someone with such a lot of bushwalking experience commented. I think the area between the WoJ and the Overland is a brilliant place to walk, even the NeverNever in all its leechy glory. Perhaps though being from Tasmania Nuts has higher expectations than a mainlander like myself

[rbrand]

stepbystep,

Thanks for the follow-up info. I'm definitely considering including FC in as walk. Three days seems pretty doable, about 16 km / day, staying at Lake Vera Hut, i/s or in tent. If I did this, it would involve leaving pack and gear at the hut and only going to FC summit w/ a daypack. Is that OK considering considering theft or critters chewing through to get food? Also, if I did walk FC, I'd likely hire a car. Is ok to leave car at this trailhead?

Cheers,

p.s. Glad to see Abbey has made it across the Pacific.

Hello stepbystep,
In your opinion is FC any more mud-ridden or rainy than the other walks that I've mentioned or members have suggested for me?

I've just completed the walk two days ago, the new trackwork has bypassed the notorious mud. It's no longer a factor. Junction Creek and the Lake Judd track are far worse for mud.

[rbrand]

Hi Wobbly,

I'm experienced offtrack, though not in Tasmania. For me the critical factor is timing and weather. The Ducane Traverse seems a little more weather dependent than say Frenchmans Cap or WoJ.

Your comment about the Acropolis has me considering a side trip just for that. What is the round trip time from Narcissus Bay.

Cheers,

Hi Brand
I'd also recommend the Ducane traverse but only if you are genuinely experienced off track and the weather is kind. And if you like exposure a side trip up Geryon is doable. The Acropolis is probably a must seeing you are in the area.

Take a plb.

[stepbystep]

stepbystep,

Thanks for the follow-up info. I'm definitely considering including FC in as walk. Three days seems pretty doable, about 16 km / day, staying at Lake Vera Hut, i/s or in tent. If I did this, it would involve leaving pack and gear at the hut and only going to FC summit w/ a daypack. Is that OK considering considering theft or critters chewing through to get food? Also, if I did walk FC, I'd likely hire a car. Is ok to leave car at this trailhead?

Cheers,

p.s. Glad to see Abbey has made it across the Pacific.

Hello stepbystep,
In your opinion is FC any more mud-ridden or rainy than the other walks that I've mentioned or members have suggested for me?

I've just completed the walk two days ago, the new trackwork has bypassed the notorious mud. It's no longer a factor. Junction Creek and the Lake Judd track are far worse for mud.

Personally I'd stay 1 or 2 nights at Tahune to givethe benst chance for summit views and doubt my body would let me daywalk from Vera(that's a big day) but ok if very fit.

It's ok to leave gear in huts in Tassie, theft is ultra rare, for the most part ppl look out for each other down here. The FC carpark had reputation years ago for car break-ins, thankfully that seems to have stopped, haven't heard of an incident in years.

PS All the other walks mentioned are all awesome. Good luck deciding, you can't lose

[Azza]

I have day walked from Vera to the summit and back with my wife.. we carried our packs and didn't end up staying at Tahune. Not sure why not.
But it wasn't a huge day. Still would be better to stay up at Tahune I reckon.
Also worth noting that you can walk out to the car from Lake Tahune in a day and be out at a reasonable time, there are some spots you can camp if you don't want to push on.
I have done the walk as a overnighter to Tahune, climbed the cap and out. Its a bit rushed in two days.

[rbrand]

Azza,

Thanks for providing some informatin on the feasibility of doing FC in 3 days, as well as your earlier post on mud and bogginess of Tasmanian walks.

Cheers,

I have day walked from Vera to the summit and back with my wife.. we carried our packs and didn't end up staying at Tahune. Not sure why not.
But it wasn't a huge day. Still would be better to stay up at Tahune I reckon.
Also worth noting that you can walk out to the car from Lake Tahune in a day and be out at a reasonable time, there are some spots you can camp if you don't want to push on.
I have done the walk as a overnighter to Tahune, climbed the cap and out. Its a bit rushed in two days.

[rbrand]

Nuts,

Thanks. I too would like to squeeze in as much diversity as possible and the Ducane Traverse may not fit into that.

Cheers,

DuCane, Yes! See there are just too many I'd still choose a bit more diversity, 2/3 nights here or there, easier to manage if there is dodgy weather around (unless your into rock types and micro worlds), an overall impression of Tassie mtn landscapes.

DuCane Traverse/Circuit- clockwise, not ideal with a tight schedule but it keeps the bureaucrats happy.

[rbrand]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the extra input on the area between the WoJ and OT. I quickly realizing there are way too many good options to cover in a single trip to Tasmania!

Can't say I'm looking forward to the wet weather, I'm expecting to encounter a bit of it and am prepared, e.g., good gear. I've experienced some very wet weather in Scotland and the NW US (Rainier NP), but the prospect of knee/waist deep mud is a new one.

Cheers,

Hello Nuts,

Thanks for the great info. It's really helpful to know the areas between the Walls and Cradle Mountain is short on highlights.

!!! No - it is a really great walk, between the WOJ and the Overland Track - with a variety of route options available. I would think it of being of a scenic standard at least as good as doing the Overland Track itself. The most scenic routes do tend to be more off track and have some scrubby sections however. I would not call them hard - but they are more suitable for those with experience at off track walking in Tasmania.

A good place to visit for a week or more is to spend your time in the southern Reserve (The "Reserve" is the local name for the Cradle Mtn -Lake St Clair National Park) - you can reach Lake St Clair by bus, and there is camping and other accommodation available, then you walk up the lake (nice track through forest), and then up to Pine Valley. This is a good base for walks and a good place to sit out bad weather. You do need to note that in summer to expect rain on about 50% of days - so you do need to have flexible plans. Walking low down in forests is OK in bad weather, but its best then to avoid the tops. As others have suggested - a traverse of part or all of the Du Cane Range is a very worthwhile trip - but it is strongly recommended to do it during a spell of good weather. And you do need to have a good stormproof tent.

[rbrand]

Hermione,

Your "leechy glory" is tempting me just for that experience alone!

As I noted in my first post, I'm planning 3 weeks in Australia with about 10 days in Tasmania (that may need to be extended!) and the remainder on the mainland. I've queried members from Victoria and NSW about good walks in those states. What are your thoughts about dividing time between Tasmania and these States.

Cheers,

Totally agree with DaveNoble on this, so I'm glad someone with such a lot of bushwalking experience commented. I think the area between the WoJ and the Overland is a brilliant place to walk, even the NeverNever in all its leechy glory. Perhaps though being from Tasmania Nuts has higher expectations than a mainlander like myself

[rbrand]

Hello All,

Thanks so much for your assistance and great information. I'm going to spend some time figuring out potential walk itineraries and how they fit into other factors, such as hiring a car vs. using a charter, what to do with non-walk gear, and experiencing other activities in and around Hobart. Once I've tightened things up a bit, I will likely querry y'all again for some specifics.

Cheers,