eggs wrote:We've probably all seen the money shot of climbing Federation Peak:
But we went as a group of 6 and there were 3 who decided to sit it out. So as I took that photo someone below took this one. Doesn't look all that bad.
I agree with others who talk of the scramble through the 4 Peaks. Given we were doing that with heavy packs in the wet, I though it was more dangerous than the actual climb of Federation.
However, I can understand the exposure thing. A lot of the climb is very vertical, but only a few parts require a steady grip and particular care.
But the most dangerous part of the climb for my part was the climb up to the ledge and its traverse before the money shot.
Particularly coming down.
It is all in view here - the lines indicate a couple ways to get up to the ledge - either in the corner or hanging onto the nose. We did both routes and they are fine, but do take special care here.
Having done it now, I had an objective to map out the climb route on an aerial photo as per a very old thread, but I am afraid it all happened a bit quick and I did not take enough photos or notes..
But I do cope fairly well with rock and I felt it was a great climb.
The young fellows with me - one of whom had been quite cavalier through the vertical backpacking sections on the previous days - were very, very careful on this climb and descent. Very much taking their time with every move.
Tortoise wrote:Thanks very much, folks - I really appreciate your thoughts and good wishes.
I've been checking out some youtube clips of the climb as well - hmm - I will need to seriously consider my limits when I get there, but I want to do whatever I can beforehand to maximise my chances. I never got around to a few rock climbing lessons from a friend before he went sailing around the Pacific somewhere... But I will look into that as well - once my current injuries resolve.
north-north-west wrote:...from what I've heard it's not an easy place to rig safety lines.
Tortoise wrote:Update on prep:
Triple Top went well - an excellent opportunity for a mental as well as physical challenge. Reckoned I would normally do those 21 kms in 9 hrs or so with plenty of stops, so decided to go for under 6. Near the summit of Roland I realised I could maybe squeak it in under 5, which provided huge motivation to push the body to the max. Very happy to have achieved that, as a middle-aged non-jogger with joints that are feeling their age. And as a serious tortoise on the steep ups.
Have now had a pretty successful go at rock climbing for the first time in about 30 years (= 2nd time ever). I decided to stick with the approach shoes I hope to wear on the Fedders trip, so I could see what I could do with them.
First pitch felt pretty bad, fell a few times (in harness), but got to the top eventually. Second attempt was on a harder grade but with more foot holds - which I enjoyed a lot more. Had a very good teacher! A couple more times up that route got my confidence up. Then borrowed some climbing shoes (aka spiderman shoes) for a harder grade. Got nearly to the top before the forearms packed it in. Now I'm looking everywhere for something to climb!
Next stop, the high ropes at Camp Clayton, and a night walk.
You may have noticed that the fear of heights - which I feel I'm making significant progress on - isn't the only obstacle for me...
DanShell wrote:Well done. I love your enthusiasm and positivity. Its something that excites me by simply reading it I hope to one day have the same confidence and /or teacher to encourage me!
newhue wrote:My wife is not great on rock, even less without a rope and that is perfectly normal. he wimpered and wanted saving at times all the way to the top and back of Fedders. Not much I could do but be supportive.
stu wrote:As others have said, once you climb Federation you'll probably wonder what all the fuss was about, it's way easier than expected.
The very nature of the rock means that it's slabby (off-vertical) and there are edges & holds all over the place, in fact majority of the time there are no actual 'climbing' moves (coming from a climber).
The exposure as such is massively reduced by the slabbiness of the route & also the wandering / ledgey nature of the direct ascent.
Not sure any climbing will necessarily benefit you greatly; the very nature of the access (via any direction) means you're already prepared for it by the time you get there.
eggs wrote:I presume your "bulge" is the money shot spot. My photos were to indicate that it is more of a steep ramp but yes, with high exposure.
However, it was not a spot calling for long arms and legs.
I will let stu's photos demonstrate the nature of what I consider the worst exposure on the ledge. Lots of good holds.
And the swim one is funny - given our weather up there and we were headed the other way.
There were perhaps 3 or 4 other spots in the climb that were more of a stretch for arms and legs, but without the same extreme exposure.
newhue wrote:Tortoise, wife is 172cm, but I don't recall the holds or move over the bulge jumping out as a problem if one is a little short. You just chuck the leg over and we all can do that.
DaveNoble wrote:You can always try the climbing gully (original route) - much less exposure, but the climbing is a bit harder.
Dave
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