Island Peak - Nepal

[heracles26]

Has anyone summited island peak and can share their experience? I'm hoping to attempt it next year but reading conflicting opinions as to whether or not mountaineering experience is needed

[Camminata]

Many people climb the peak with no mountaineering experience , just makes sure to be fit, your guide will make sure you get up, with a little training at camp with ropes etc...

I attempted it 2 years ago but forced to turn around due to bad weather (no prior experience also) hope to get back again next year for a second go.

[heracles26]

That's reassuring! Which company did you use? Were you happy with them and will you be using them again?

Working on fitness atm! I completed the three high passes trek starting from Jiri in 2015 but that's my only trekking experience

[Camminata]

I used TT4ftnepal, I rekon ill use a different company next time Scenic Nepal Treks : )

[heracles26]

Great thanks!

[johnrs]

Its a walkup in climbing terms Heracles.
Lots of operators, the more you pay the more you get.
The most important factor is a slow acclimatisation.
At 6000m the air pressure and the oxygen levels are half that of sea level.
Eminently doable but not easy.
The Three Passes or the last couple including EBC makes for excellent acclimatisation.
Don't go after early November as it gets too cold.
You should be able to see the temperatures logged on the web, maybe look for Chukking
Best wishes
John

[heracles26]

Thanks for the info John! I hadn't heard the term walkup before but that makes it sound achievable

[johnrs]

It will come down to your acclimatisation Heracles,
that's a combination of time taken and individual personal variability.
Age is an advantage for acclimatisation at least.
A good rule of thumb is 300 m uplift in sleeping altitude per day above 3000m and go high during the day,
that will give you a ten day run up to 6000m.
You will love Island Peak
Best wishes
John

[heracles26]

I had no issues with altitude last time doing the 3 high passes, though I did walk in from jiri. Not that that has any bearing on how ill go this time! Is there a typical itinerary for climbing island peak?

[johnrs]

Hi Heracles
Have a look at the ascent rates in my last post, that will give you the timing.
They are a sensible rate, you can go faster, suffer more and take your chances with AMS and missing your goal.
Really you could make your own way and meet your group in Chukking.
After the Three Passes you will have an idea of how your body handles altitude.
Island peak will only be a small step up for you.
John

[heracles26]

Thanks John!