Penguin Cradle Trail + Overland Track - November

[Fizzygood]

Hi everyone,

With annual leave booked, firm plans are mulling around in my head...

A friend and I will be doing Penguin to Cradle and straight onto the Overland track the first two weeks of November... anyone done this recently?

No food stops or drops and no nights in comfortable beds.... straight through!

We are both experienced with highland weather and have high quality 4 season gear. Both of us also rock climb and have done the Overland track before.

Is 7 days a good plan for Penguin to Cradle? (including an overnight side-trip to Reynolds falls) After this we will then do the OT in 4 days (maybe 5 if we decide to sleep on Ossa)

In total we will plan for 11 days and take food for 12...

Thoughts, stories and suggestions welcome...

Cheers, Erin

[Speculator]

Heya fizzygood. This sounds like a great idea. One I've wondered about myself before, I'm surprised I haven't heard of anyone trying it in the past.

Sorry, I don't have any useful information for you. I just thought I'd point out the Penguin Cradle Trail section of the North-West Walking Club website in case you haven't seen this before. The route guide provided is particularly good.

L8r.

Hi everyone,

With annual leave booked, firm plans are mulling around in my head...

A friend and I will be doing Penguin to Cradle and straight onto the Overland track the first two weeks of November... anyone done this recently?

No food stops or drops and no nights in comfortable beds.... straight through!

We are both experienced with highland weather and have high quality 4 season gear. Both of us also rock climb and have done the Overland track before.

Is 7 days a good plan for Penguin to Cradle? (including an overnight side-trip to Reynolds falls) After this we will then do the OT in 4 days (maybe 5 if we decide to sleep on Ossa)

In total we will plan for 11 days and take food for 12...

Thoughts, stories and suggestions welcome...

Cheers, Erin

[Joe]

A bloke I used to work with had a trip planned starting at PCT then OT then keep going to eventually come out on SCT. Im pretty sure he did end up doing it but haven't seen him in ages.

[Fizzygood]

Yep, been there! ... The NWWC web site is a great resource for the Penguin to Cradle section of the walk and the Overland Track is familiar to us but put them together and its going to be a bit of an epic... longest walk for me to date anyway!

Still keen to hear from anyone who has done it!

[DonQx]

I walked Lake St Clair through to Penguin about 10 years ago. Very nice. Should do extended trips like this more often .

The OT had been fairly 'busy' and meeting hardly anyone on the PCT was great. From memory I took 11 days, 6 on OT, 5 on PCT.

The 'feel' of the PCT is quite different from OT. Less people, but crossing civilisation every now & then (crossing highways, walking on gravel roads, ...).

There's a very exposed 1-2 days section on the PCT, try to avoid it in high winds.

a.

[rhyso]

hey Erin, sounds like a fantastic week or two
you are one up on me, im only planning to head from penguin to the start of cradle...only managed to get 6 days off
im off in September...the 15th or there abouts i think,
do you or does anyone else know how the track is holding up this time of the year? and i spose the leven river will be up also? pose any problems?
tips or tricks to take anything or maybe a side trip that especially worth doing?? may head up black bluff towards the end there i think.
still havent decided if ill head over the 3 peaks coming out of penguin (Monty, Dial, Gnomen) or go around...could be hell with a 5/6 day pack on...let alone a 12 day
best of luck for yours,
keep us posted
happy hiking
cheers, rhys

[Fizzygood]

Hi Rhys,

Good stuff, hope you enjoy your walk. Are you part of a group or going solo? If solo, be aware of sections that may require pack hauling and possible rope use!

Don't have any idea of the track condition, in fact I am yet to find someone who has walked it recently!

Pack weight is definitely going to be a consideration but its good practice for some of the bigger off track stuff (14+ days) on the drawing board for next year!

Would still love to hear from anyone who has walked the Penguin Cradle Trail in recent times!

[Speculator]

Would still love to hear from anyone who has walked the Penguin Cradle Trail in recent times!

I wouldn't be surprised if you don't hear much at all. It's very rarely commented on in the forums here, which has lead me to believe that it's not that popular at all, and is very rarely walked (the full length anyway). Which is a shame.

Lots of people do day-walks along parts of it though. I've done a few. I should imagine that any of the Dial Range parts should be good easy walking, those tracks are well maintained, and often walked. I've heard that the section south of the Northern Gates is a little unloved though, that there are some trees down over the track, but it's still walkable.
I walked a section from the bottom of the Leven Canyon heading north along the PCT to the Western Leven Canyon lookout a couple of years ago. The track was pretty good through there.

I've also walked some of the section from the link-road North along the PCT to Prospect Mount and found that the track through there looks as though almost noones walked it, the buttongrass has all but reclaimed the track. The snow-poles are still there though, which is handy, although they might be a little harder to see if the cloud rolls in (which it probably will).

Either way, I look forward to hearing how your trip went when you get back. Please, keep us informed!

Last edited by Speculator on Sat 25 Oct, 2008 8:32 am, edited 1 time in total.

[Robbo]

I'm sure John Chapman will have more information on this. I have been in contact with him a number of times over recent years and found his comments and suggestions to be helpful and timely. There is an email contact on his website I believe.

Hope this helps

Tony Robinson

[rhyso]

Pack hauling hey? sounds great fun.
am heading off with my brother so hopefully we can avoid rope use??? really cant be stuffed lugging a static line around with me aswell. is this said hauling around leven canyon by any chance?
ah well....once i do it ill let you know what the deal is.
may get onto john chapman and get some info.
cheers all
rhys

[MJD]

There's a whole section on this trail in Chapman-Chapman-Siseman's "Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair and Walls of Jerusalem National Parks" book. I'm looking at the fifth edition.

Looks like the Penguin Cradle Trial is 6-8 days. Some of the days look a bit short but, hey, I've never done it.

[Penguin]

Like speculator I have done sections of the trail as day walks and two overnighters. Loved the last bit into Cradle, camped overnight at four creeks junction(?) and the walk through leven canyon camping at blackwood camp. I seem to remember some trouble south of Gunn´s Plains, where the track goes through private land. Has anybody done that bit?

[tas-man]

<SNIP>I seem to remember some trouble south of Gunn´s Plains, where the track goes through private land. Has anybody done that bit?

I walked that part of the PCT when going from the link road to Gunns Plains in 2004, when the section from Loongana Road to the bridge below Griffiths Ridge on the Loongana Range had just been re-routed to avoid a section that had been closed on private property. It had only just been chainsawed following the property boundary, and was rough going, especially when we had been expecting a pleasant walk along the Leven, and found ourselves heading uphill almost to the top of the plateau then back down again. I have just looked at the Nov 2004 route guide maps again and this section of the route has not been updated on the map. We met some of the NWWC track workers on this section and they explained that the property that covered the Griffiths Flats part of the walk had been sold and the new owners had withdrawn permission for the track to cross their land. I would imagine that the track over this part would by now have been properly formed and marked so there should not be any difficulties in following it.

The section over the Loongana Range is rough and very steep and with packs care is needed, especially in the wet. I have done this in the dry and wet, and the differences in the experiences still amazes me as I think back on it. When reaching the top, it is worth going to the end of the ridge for views into the Leven Canyon. The "track" along the Leven is just a barely visible foot pad in places, and the route goes up and over several steep pinches where care is needed in foot placement. Anyone used to Tassie wilderness walking should not have any problems. Route markings are not always easy to find and their visibility is biased towards walking from North to South. I have walked the Gunns Plains to Griffiths Flats section each way in the last few years, in dry and wet, and it is a spectacular section of the track. There are several large logs across the track that have to be climbed over using the chain sawn hand and foot holds - easy in the dry but a bit scary in the rain. I walked the 13 kms along the Gunns Plains road in heavy rain, and the memories of passing the occasional houses with roaring fires added to the bittersweet experience! I have predigital photos somewhere that I will post if I can find and scan them.

[Fizzygood]

Thanks for all the info guys... have also got Chapman's notes and NWWC Track from the website...

Seven weeks to go before the start.... will be sure to keep some good notes and also take some pics which I will post here on our return...

[tas-man]

I have posted some photos of parts of the Penguin-Cradle Trail in this thread in the Gallery. Enjoy
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1079&p=8223#p8223

[Fizzygood]

Ian, thanks heaps for the pics... nice!

Rhys, I have heard the ropes are really only there as a backstop. In some sections if the weather is crap they may be handy around slippery mossy rock walls but if you are comfortable on steep stuff it should pose little problem... I am keen to hear how you go with it. When are you planning on going?

[rhyso]

hi erin
well i have attempted the PCT and after 50km, 3 days of rain and wet everything i decided to bail out
the track itself was amazing and the views thru the fog and rain, spectacular....
if you can help it try and get a lift thru the rural roads at guns plains, it is a looooooong drawn out affair on that road, especially if you are soaked to the bone, hehehe
but i completed the hardest bit on the trail in the pouring rain so hopefully when you head thru it will be nice and dry, quite easy around there actually, just alot of tree hopping
not to be discouraged i will be back again to complete the lovely walk in its full glory....when the sun is out.
had a ball, but happy to be going to bed and waking up dry this time around.
good luck and happy trekking,
cheers
rhys

[tastrekker]

Well done, Rhys!
You may consider a reply to this forum topic about the weekend's wild weather.
Am I correct to assume you 'bailed' at Loongana? Through the Dial Range, did you go along the Dial-Gnomon ridgeline or through the valley via Keddie's Creek?
Are you doing something with the rest of your week off apart from drying out and warming up?
Regards,
TasTrekker

[Fizzygood]

We've discussed the roads through Gunns Plains and decided that the only lift we will accept is on the back of a tractor (if offered!)

We actually want to walk the whole distance... Penguin to Lake St Clair... Phew!

[rhyso]

Am I correct to assume you 'bailed' at Loongana? Through the Dial Range, did you go along the Dial-Gnomon ridgeline or through the valley via Keddie's Creek?

yes we came back out onto the road and a good fellow let me borrow his phone to get onto a friend of mine... then after nearly reaching the stile at winduss road he picked us up! yeow

Are you doing something with the rest of your week off apart from drying out and warming up?

i headed off to freycinet and did a climb on whitewater wall, i wasnt going to let my week of leave fall by the wayside also skipped accross the skyline traverse there, quite a nice view over to wineglass bay.

We've discussed the roads through Gunns Plains and decided that the only lift we will accept is on the back of a tractor (if offered!)

that was my reasoning also, that road really never ends though best of luck let us know how you go!!

cheers all
rhys

[Fizzygood]

Thanks Rhys,

And thanks too for all the other info... it all helps!

The reality of it is sinking in now. Made plans today to get a vehicle to Lake St Clair for the end of the walk... with side trips we are looking at somewhere near 180km in 11 days! (taking food for 12)

Never carried a pack of this weight for this duration before but feel ready for it... The first few days will inevitably be the toughest...

Anyone had much expedition length experience?

Got two or three other walks happening before we head to Penguin so there's lots going on!

[Fizzygood]

Really close now.. counting down the days and getting very excited

Here is our rough plan... it has grown to 13 days and possibly fourteen if we decide to add Reynolds falls and leave a day earlier.

Has anyone camped at Lake Will? What's it like?

Sat - Bus to Penguin - Start to Hardstaff Creek
Sun - Hardstaff Creek to Wings Farm Park
Mon - Wings Farm Park to Blackwood Camp
Tue - Blackwood Camp to Loongana (camp after footbridge)
Wed - Loongana to Paddys Lake
Thurs - Paddys Lake to Bare Mountain Camp
Fri - Bare Mountain Camp to Four Ways Camp with Mt Beecroft sidetrip
Sat - Four Ways Camp to Waterfall Valley (collect O/Land passes on way)
Sun - Waterfall Valley to Lake Will with Barn Bluff sidetrip
Mon - Lake Will to Pelion Hut with Pelion West sidetrip
Tue - Day of rest at Pelion Hut
Wed - Pelion Hut to Kia Ora with Mt Ossa sidetrip
Thurs - Kia Ora to Narcissus in time for 3:30pm ferry back to car. Drive home and have a hot shower for the first time in almost two weeks!

[frank_in_oz]

Have a great trip Fizzygood. I love that few days before a big walk except I get so excited (like a 5 year old before Christmas) I hardly sleep.

What are you doing about food? Carrying it all or a food drop?

[Fizzygood]

We are planning to carry most of what we need...

There are various supplies in a cache near Pelion Hut for a few treats (chocolate and scotch ) when we get to that point... this will be on about day 10.

I have never been one to worry about weight too much but a 13 to 15 day walk is something completely different!... I reckon I will hit close to 30Kg at the start!

A challenge in lots of different ways that I am really looking forward to!

[forthferalz]

Epic is the word - no idea why you want to do it all in one hit! FIngers x'd this weather holds for you. I have walked bits of the PCT last few weeks and it has been simply gorgeous!! Back in august a friend reported many trees down over the track going to blackwood camp but no trouble negotiating the Tulip creek rock face which has had a little work on it.
the Dial range track is in good nick from montgomery to gnomon and the orchids are in bloom on the Dial peak itself this week.
This was taken from the 'eye of the needle' a little east of the PCT enroute to Paddy's lake. There was still a little snow on Sunday (at least you will get a tail wind) - the track is soft but not boggy.
and a friend walked from Dial Creek to Mt Lorymer today and eyed a trout en route which has him keen to return with fishing gear - again there are some small trees down on the track.

PS falls/leven river/Dial creek levels appeared middling to lowish

Goodluck!

[Fizzygood]

its not that bad really... food is packed... b/fast, lunch, dinner and snacks for 13 days = 11.7Kg

Will post some pics in a couple of weeks... thank for the update forthferalz, appreciate it!

It's walkin' time!

[johnw]

its not that bad really... food is packed... b/fast, lunch, dinner and snacks for 13 days = 11.7Kg

Will post some pics in a couple of weeks... thank for the update forthferalz, appreciate it!

It's walkin' time!

Enjoy! If you decide to climb Black Bluff please take a photo so I know what the view looks like.

[Fizzygood]

For sure... plan on taking a few pics and posting a bit of a walk diary on the forum...

Black Bluff is only an hour return side trip from the PCT and is definitely in the schedule!

Back in about 2 weeks!

Cheers, Erin

[forthferalz]

you can do the definitive wiki entries for the tracks!

[Speculator]

:D you can do the definitive wiki entries for the tracks!

Ooh yes, please make some notes if you can!

L8r.