Mountain hardwear Direkt 2
This was my single number 1 most anticipated gear for 2012, so apologies for the lengthy review. There is a lack of solid reviews online about this one so I wanted to write abit about it, and will add more info as I get more experience with it. All the current reviews I could find were just single paragraph reviews which werent very informative.
Desgined in conjunction with speed alpinist Ueli Steck, Mountain hardwear set about to trim their previous alpine assault tent, the EV2 designed by Ed Veisturs and came up with the Direkt 2, as part of the himalayan project in 2011.
https://vimeo.com/42405898
Other assault tents I have had experience with in the past include:
- Black diamond lighthouse (epic)
- Hilleberg jannu
- Black diamond firstlight (nanosheild)
- Brooks Range Rocket
- Brooks Range Propel
- Bibler i-Tent
- Rab Summit bivi
Firstly specs:
On paper alone, this is truly a remarkable tent - A true mountaineering tent weighing 1.09kg for the tent and poles. Stakes? use your climbing pro, nuts, pitons, etc etc
http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Direkt%E2%84%A2-2/OU9613,default,pd.html
I currently have 5 hilleberg tents, and why need another tent? For mountaineering, you generally need a nice solid tent to set up basecamp for several weeks at at time. You wait for a good weather window, and you shoot for the top. On shorter summits, a bivi is enough for backup but longer summits are more comfy in a tent. Required is a belaying partner, hence ruling out 1 man tents like the soulo (thanks Stu! it's still comming with me on remote solo trips). Hilleberg’s answer to the alpine assault tent is the Jannu but at nearly 3kg, it is 300% heavier than a direct 2 and makes climbing quite awkward. As I found out, even the Jannu is not indestructable.
Comparisons to other assault tents:
Note that all these tents below are proper 4 season tents, among the strongest in the world for their weight.
My Lighthouse was just crap.
It can rain and sometimes does actually rain unexpectedly in the mountains. The epic material was simply relying too much on chance that it wasn’t going to be pouring. In good weather, its breathability is the best in its class with nil condensation.
Bibler i-Tent, the gold standard.
one of the strongest tents in the world for 2kg. Used this over 10 years and was still going strong, but with tents half its weight entering the market in direct competition to it’s class, I wanted to try something new. Its a safe bet to get this tent, but Condensation was bad.
Rab Bivi: this thing was awesome and I got this based on its similarities to the iTent but being breathable with its eVent fabric. It breathed very well and was totally waterproof. Even had a donut hole for me to tie in to my harness on dodgy campsites. However, it was just far too low and not comfy even though i could just barely sit up. 2 people wont be able to sit up simultaneously . This would have been the most aerodynamic due to its low height.
Brooks Range Rocket and propel:
well the cuben died in the rocket. With the Propel, very neat design except set up was way too fiddly. It was perfect in wide open space but over this past winter I learnt something very important. I tried setting it up on a ledge in Mt Cook NZ and realised how I really really needed a tent where poles were setup from the inside like all other assault tents.. I only had about 50cm between the edge of the tent and a 700m vertical drop and really did not enjoy getting out to adjust the sagging silnylon. At 600g, its still one of the lightest 2 man tents I own. Being in a class of its own, it will always have a special place in my gear closet.
BD firstlight (nanosheild) This tent has been a favourite of mine, especially its that I only picked it up for $200. Bonus, Its often found for $250 in the US. The nanoshield handles rain much better than epic, but it still leaked bad in hard rain after several hours. Again you really are taking a good chance and hoping your weather window stays good. But as we all know, the mountains create their own weather systems and general forecasts could be correct down at the valley floor but gale force up in the mountains.
HENCE, I had to try the Direkt 2, especially after it got the thumbs up from Ueli steck using it at over 8000m in the Himalayas for 2 months in April last year.