BushwalkBushwalkDay 1: One Mile Beach Forster
Worimi Country
Forster to Anna Bay
Coast Walk
Text and photosGreg Keaney
The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination and brings eternal joy to the soul. Robert Wyland
Greg is walking from ‘Dreamtime to Eden’ along the length of the NSW coast. The first five stages of the walk appear in previous issues of this magazine (commencing in June 2024). In this article Greg recounts the 6th stage of the coast walk; 5 days and 118km from Forster to Anna Bay including the recently opened Tomaree Coastal Walk.
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Day 1: One Mile Beach Forster
I’m doing a ‘thousand mile, thousand beaches’ NSW coastal camino, aiming to walk almost every beach and headland of this magnificent edge of the Pacific. I do the walk in stages and this article recounts Stage 6, from Forster on the Coolongolook River to Anna Bay a little south of Port Stephens. This stage was 5 days of incredibly varied coastal sauntering, a few challenges, idyllic scenery and some splendidly isolated beaches and headlands. Just glorious!
Day 1: Forster to Elizabeth Beach28km, 10 hours
Headed out at first light for the first day’s walk southwards to Elizabeth Beach. I had stayed the previous night in Forster (where I did make sure, for quest purity’s sake, to walk across the beautiful bridge from Tuncurry).
The Bicentennial Walk from Forster Beach past Forster Ocean Baths, Second Head Lookout, Pebbly Beach, The Tanks (a unique place to swim with natural horizontal rock shelves making a huge pool) and Pine Point Lookout made for an excellent dawn start to the day. I had a post-sunrise break at
Bennetts Head Lookout before dropping down to perfect little One Mile Beach and its amazing dune at its northern end. Then it was around Turtle Cove past Caves Bay and on to steep, steep Burgess Beach. The access is a little hidden here – it lies directly across from Link St - but is a ‘totally worth it’ beach to explore. From the south end of Burgess Rd, it was a steepish link trail to enter Booti Booti National Park and the trail to Cape Hawke Lookout. While this track wasn't indicated on my Google Maps, you can see and confirm the entrance on street view with a ‘full zoom’.
Then it was down to McBrides Beach, a steep one-hour diversion, but an excellent little secluded 'natural' beach. Next, it was time to walk up, up, up to Cape Hawke Lookout (224m elevation plus a few more flights of steps up the tower) with splendid views of the coast to Big (North) Brother and beyond.
Sadly, no magic track appeared to take me to Janies Corner and Seven Mile Beach, so it was a bit of a road trudge along pleasant enough Cape Hawke Drive (4km) back to the Lakes Way - a high-speed road with narrow
Day 1: Sunset over the Forster Tuncurry Bridge
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verges of 'snake-y' long grass. It was about 4 more km along Lakes Way, plus another 2km or so of dirt road from the turn-off back to the beach. Oh well, can't have perfection all day every day and this was an exceedingly rare occasion where a serious road diversion has been required along the coast. Read on though for some good news on this score.
So, I was delighted to finally get to Janies Corner. As a reward for my travails, it was as if some of the older gods and goddesses of sand and sea and headlands had seen my plight and so put on a splendid display of breaching whales and soaring eagles, along with a cooling northerly breeze, a few perfect resting logs, and the endless whiteish sands and dunes of Seven Mile Beach to saunter away the afternoon. It was a longish beach walk on soft sand (the softest, I think, that I have experienced so far) to the Ruins campground at the southern end of the beach.
Day 1: Track to Cape Hawke SLSC
Day 1: Turtle Cove
Day 1: Cape Hawke Lookout
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As a reward for my travails, it was as if some of the older gods and goddesses of sand and sea and headlands had seen my plight...
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The day got even better with the insanely great, newly remediated Booti Walking Track past Morley Cove and Lindeman Cove, before coming out on the perfection of Elizabeth Beach (regularly nominated as one of the best beaches in Oz) where I was staying for the night. The track designers and builders and consultants deserve a medal for this Booti Hill trail - gentle gradients, and rainforest and erosion protection, but a perfect 'bushwalking feel' through lush coastal vegetation with plenty of outstanding coastal views along the way. Great to wind up the day’s saunter with yet another 10/10 headland walk on this amazing coast.
In case you’re wondering 'Booti Booti' means ‘lots of honey’ in the local Gathang language. No honey this time but a few cheeky schooners of Old for sundowners at The Rekkie (Pacific Palms Recreation Club) to reflect on a wonderful day of coastal walking, and plan for Seal Rocks and Treachery on the morrow.
Day 2: Elizabeth Beach to Seal Rocks18km, 7 hours
Today was an unusual traverse from Elizabeth Beach to Submarine Beach and included a planned bus ride cheat and an unplanned NP 4WD interlude. It was a day of mighty fortune, wind and sun and rain and remote trails and formidable dunes and unadulterated wonder. Hard to find the words to best describe such a day of ‘miracles and wonder’.
The golden rule of any kind of travel is expecting the unexpected – with a corollary that you must also 'go with the flow'. I started out according to plan with a first light saunter along wonderful Elizabeth Beach and then an out-and-back track to perfect little Shelly Beach. It would be even more perfect with a more original name - I vote that every Shelly or Pebbly Beach on the coast gets an immediate, preferably Indigenous, name change! Anyway, then it was round Charlotte
Day 1: Elizabeth Beach
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In case you’re wondering 'Booti Booti' means ‘lots of honey’ in the local Gathang language.
Day 2: Blueys Beach and Headland
Day 2: Boomerang Beach
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Head to Boomerang Beach, which even in the cloudy gloom was another 'supermodel beach' on this part of the coast.
Next up was Boomerang Point Lookout and around to Blueys Beach and its imposing headland. A steep uphill section and some private land block the coast here. Smiths Lake entrance was open to the sea at that time, and the range of almost trackless land between there and Seal Rocks Beaches 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, so I cheated a little and caught the 151 bus from Blueys to Bungwahl.
And then, well, unfortunately, into each life some (bucketing) rain must fall. Fortunately, it only started pouring while I was waiting in a little bus shelter and it was a short ride to Bungwahl with a stop at the Bungwahl 'Fuel and Liquor', the Aussie equivalent of 'Gas n Guns'. It's a 13km road walk from there to Seal Rocks and Treachery so I rugged up in my rain gear and walked a few km down the Seal Rocks Road. Fortunately, I saw a National Park vehicle drive past. Unfortunately, I didn’t think quickly enough to do more than wave as the ranger drove past. Fortunately, just as I was thinking to myself, "I wish I'd asked her to stop", the ranger 'chucked a u-ey', came back and then after a short chat about my journey, offered me a lift down the gated Old Gibber Trail in her 4WD to Middle Camp Trail. This was the area I had been planning to do the following day as a back up to the headland nemesis of the northern way – BIG GIBBER. This was the only headland that had caused me some grief in the trip planning. Only minimal information available, almost all of it indicating that it was difficult to impossible to get around.
Katrina, the NPWS ranger, gave me plenty of information along the way. Wonderful to chat with someone who lived to share her love of our wild places, who was such an amazing ambassador for her organisation - a true Tolkienesque 'ranger of the north'. She had worked on the Booti Walking Track so I was able to convey my thanks and appreciation, and she also let me know that planning was underway for a through-trail from Cape Hawke to Janies Corner – five stars to the NP planning department who are far, far ahead of me.
Day 2: Dunes behind Submarine Beach
Day 2: Bungwahl – Fuel and Liquor
Day 2: Perfect beach walking. Magic!
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I was dropped part way down Middle Camp Trail (this is about as NSW coastal middle-of-nowhere as it gets) with some clear instructions for getting to Submarine Beach (turn right at the T-intersection at the end of Middle Camp Trail, walk about a km to a turning circle in front of a swamp and then climb over the back dunes from where you can see the ocean). For those interested and coming from the beachside, the trail is exactly (and a little surprisingly) where Google maps says it is,in between two vegetated dune hillocks, about 3 km south of Yagon Gibber. I had to traverse about 500m westward of a huge area of undulating dunes, but could then see the Middle Camp trail before descending the (steep) back side of the dune array. I won't bore you all with further details, but happy to share more precise info with anyone planning this route.
Anyway... and so... there I was, in the 'dunes complex' in the middle of probably the most remote beach I've visited on my journey so
far. I've had many, many magic moments in my life but in terms of sheer, unadulterated transcendental bliss this was right up there. Don't know if it was the tinge of nervousness about the unknown, the unexpectedness of suddenly being there, my readings of mishaps
Day 3: Middle Camp
Day 2: Yagon Gibber
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getting around Big Gibber (a drowning, hours lost in the scrub, dehydration from over-exertion, etc), the kindness and kindred spirit of the ranger, or the many days of beach wandering that had brought me to this magical place; probably all that and more combined. Even the windy, squally weather only added to the sublime perfection of the experience - a 'realm of pure blessedness'. Some days you just feel so alive, so fully and gratefully alive... Magnificent!
Submarine/Fiona Beach and the back dunes and swales are a national treasure... hats off to the folk (Don Brown and others) that preserved it from the potential ravages of sand mining. Just incredibly, incredibly incredible!
So, unusually for my walk, and not since Stage 1 Day 1 up the Tweed spit to Dreamtime, I then headed north to Yagon Gibber and around to Treachery Head and Seal Rocks.
I stayed the night at Treachery Camp, which is itself a coastal gem in the lee of Treachery Head. It’s a place full of quirky history and plenty of local knowledge. I drifted off to sleep wondering about the walk to Mungo Brush the following day.
Day 3: Seal Rocks to Dees Corner31km, 9 hours
Day 3 was the walk from Seal Rocks and Treachery Head to Dees Corner and Mungo Brush.
Commenced the day with a sunrise walk along Treachery Head and then back to Yagon Gibber via the campground (gorgeous place but BYO drinking water). I retraced my steps along Submarine/Fiona Beach past the Middle Camp dunes to a km or so north of Big Gibber. On the day I was there it truly was impassable – at least for a novice like me – perhaps with climbing gear and/or more expertise than I possess, it would be possible to get around the steep rockface or negotiate the once-existing trail through the broad melaleuca swamp, but I discreetly cut my losses and returned to the Middle Camp dunes. I was relieved to have a back-up plan and was fully at ease with the nemesis of Big Gibber. In fact, it was strangely satisfying to be bested, but not quite defeated, by a worthy opponent.
Day 3: Old Gibber Trail
Day 3: Grass trees
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Up and into the ‘dune-field’, tinged with purple (I guess because of the rutile) in the morning light. It was just as moving a place as the day before, and I spent some time wandering around and exploring just to drink it all in.
I was glad I'd left a boy scout arrow (sticks and stones) in the final dune ridge to mark the entrance down – as no bushwalker ever needs reminding how incredibly tricky the Aussie bush can be. For future reference, it is the only tiny sandy break in the vegetation, close to the very southern end of the final dune ridge.
So, Plan B, head up the pretty Middle Camp trail and along the Old Gibber Trail. The road bends within a few hundred metres of Big Gibber - I could hear and feel the ocean but had to ‘accept and adapt’ to my destiny (as Stoic philosophers always advise) on the inland route. I did spot a couple of possible points where a scramble through the scrub might have been possible, but I was mindful of being solo in rather isolated country.
Much of the rest of the day was on the Old Gibber Trail. It’s pretty enough but, as it's a management trail, I think it would be best enjoyed on a gravel or mountain bike. 'The long and winding road' was on repeat in my mind! There were lots of grass trees and some beautiful angophoras and eucalyptus trees and melaleuca swamps along the way, but my heart was at the beach!
Finally came out on the Mungo Brush Road not far from the Bombah Point Ferry and Myall Lakes. It was a few more kilometres of walking to head back to the beach for a good sticky-beak at the southern end of Mungo Beach at Dees Corner.
Day 4: Dees Corner to Hawks Nest18km, 6 hours
Day 4 was Dees Corner to Hawks Nest, and it was ‘everything is awesome’ time again. The first highlight was a long wander around Dark Point and Little Gibber while waiting for the high tide to peak. What a smashing spot! An absolute 'must see' for those who’ve never been. Huge field of wonderful sand dunes, rich Indigenous history, a few non-threatening dingoes (many tagged by the NP) with whales
Day 3: Incredible trees along the trail
Day 3: More incredible trees
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and dolphins all around and a few totem sea eagles as well. Similar sand dune as at Submarine Beach and Middle Camp but much easier to get to.
Morning fog lifted to beautiful sunshine. I just love the brilliant Aussie light on a perfect spring day, and I had to stop too many times at any and every nicely positioned 'Captain's log' just to drink it all in and contemplate the majestic glory of our coast. When driving along Mungo Brush Rd previously, I had never stopped off at any of the amazing little camping spots and picnic areas along the way – each one is a treasure. That's one of many wonderful things about walking the coast - you see all the bits that the folk 'a-hurrying by' miss.
My heart was just singing, as so often happens on this walk. Impressive to see the coast curving north to Seal Rocks with Sugarloaf Point, Treachery Head, Yagon Gibber, Big Gibber and Little Gibber all now a bunch of 'mates' in their rocky regality.
The beach extends south from Dark Point for about 15km and is just such an absolute stunner. It morphs along the way from Dark Point to White Sands then Lemon Tree, The Baskets and Lovers Walk curving southwest past the dune array and ultimately facing northeast in the lee of Yacaaba Head. Broughton Island lies a few km off
Day 4: Everything is awesome
Day 4: Mungo Dingo
Day 4: Sandy Point
Day 4: Time for a swim
Day 4: Yacaaba Headland and Jimmy’s Beach
Day 4: Dark Point
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the northern end and Cabbage Tree Island a similar distance off the southern end. Spectacular!
As many would know, this stretch has the most extensive series of active sand dunes in NSW, extending 10km down the beach and up to 1km inland. According to Beachsafe (great source of info) the old foredunes were formed over 6000 years ago making Dark Point a significant indigenous site. What can I say? Lots of little pig faces/beach bananas in flower too.
Simply go to Little Gibber/Dark Point and enjoy yet another piece of coastal perfection.
Day 5: Shoal Bay to Anna Bay/Birubi23km, 7 hours
Day 5 was the final day of Stage 6 on the National Parks-featured Tomaree Coastal Walk from Shoal Bay to Anna Bay/Birubi. A fantastic way to wind up the outstanding stretch of the coast on this stage. With a white bellied sea eagle as the symbol to represent the walk, of course it could do no wrong! A coast walk that packs many, many powerful punches as it weaves around the many headlands, beaches and inlets south of Port Stephens.
The route makes a superlative, but longish, day walk (the official recommendation is 2 days which would give more opportunity to
Day 5: Fingal Bay
Day 5: Rocky Beach
Day 5: Snapper Point
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enjoy the many and varied delights along the way). It would be a perfect walk for anyone wanting to do a long coastal meander without wanting to stray too far from 'civilisation'. The walk has clear signage and plenty of practical and interpretive information. There are also reasonable public transport connections (hourly) along the way which can run you back to Nelson Bay or Newcastle Station. There’s plenty more information on the NPWS website for those interested.
There were almost too many highlights to list. Every few hundred metres was another exquisite pleasure. Wonderful Fingal Beach with its half-tide spit to Fingal Island, Snapper Point, Big Rocky and the Cauldron (incredible), Samurai Beach (clothing optional – absurdly beautiful beach but a bit of a 4WD cluster zone), Middle Rock and One Mile Beach, Slot Canyon (totally incredible), Kingsley Beach, Boat Harbour, Little Kingsley Beach, Eddie's Beach and, and, and, and... it's all delightful - another walk where the only recommendation can be ‘just do it’. Such a magical coastal walk along a geologically fascinating part of the coast...
Day 5: Skate Bay
Day 5: Samurai Beach
Day 5: Middle Rock
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Greg grew up in Sydney but lived for many years in SE Asia. He has now returned home to Sydney and loves exploring Australia’s magnificent bushwalks, parks, coasts, and waterways. When he’s not bushwalking or mountain bike-riding, he works in education for Deloitte Australia and Ecctis UK.More detailed information on each day of his walk, pics and future posts are all available on Facebook - either on his personal page or in the FB groups Hiking in Australia and New Zealand, Take a hike NSW and Hiking and exploring NSW.
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I completed the day and the stage at Anna Bay. I looked longingly out across mighty Stockton Beach, the longest in NSW, with its dunes stretching to 'infinity and beyond'. Stage 7 was going to be grand – as indeed this stage, and every other one has been.
Conclusion
With so many magic moments during this stage I was reminded of a quote from George Macdonald Fraser:
"That's a moment I remember still... as far ahead as the eye could see... [were] fleecy clouds against a blue sky that seemed to stretch forever... And I absolutely laughed aloud - why, I can't tell, except in that moment I felt free and contented and full of hope, with my spirits bubbling as high as they've ever done in my life... There's an exhilaration, a sense of leaving the old, ugly world behind, and that there's something splendid waiting for you to go and find, far out yonder..."
And that's about as good a summary as any about how this coastal camino, with all its up and downs and rain and sunshine and sand dunes and waves and headlands and beaches and eagles and whales and dolphins and challenges and magnificence and grandeur and wonderfully ‘simpatico’ folk along the way so often makes me feel…
Happy wanderings one and all...
Day 5: One Mile Beach
Day 5: Slot Canyon
Day 5: Fishermans Bay Track
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