Sunset over the Indian Ocean, Evans Creek, day four

As for the gulches, they constituted the most dangerous and technically difficult aspect of the entire walk. Timing was key in negotiating these jagged and slippery ravines, which are regularly pounded by three to five metre high waves. Before attempting the more difficult gulches, I would often sit and watch the surf coming in for ten to fifteen minutes before

I was satisfied that it was safe to go (note: waves come in sets). The potential price of making an error in judgement, was getting smashed into the rocks, washed out into the Indian Ocean, or both.

Thankfully, the arduous bushbashing and gulches were broken up by some far easier stretches of beach walking. Indeed, every time I emerged from the rocks or scrub onto a long expanse of golden sand, I’d break out into a big smile. This was partly because it was a welcome respite, but mostly due to the fact that the beaches were beautiful and there was not a footprint to be seen. This was a tangible reminder that it was just me, the coast and the ocean.

Indeed, during the first fourteen days of the traverse I only saw one person; a fisherman just north of Endeavour Bay on day five. For someone that has always enjoyed spending long periods of time by himself in nature, the solitude afforded by the south-west wilderness was one of my favourite aspects of the trip.

On the morning of day fifteen, after negotiating the rugged coastline I headed inland for the final time. It was a cold, rainy and foggy farewell. The inclement conditions

I took this photo not more than a minute after making it out of this gulch

Tasmanian west coast

8 | BWA February 2017

continued until late afternoon, when the weather finally broke and the sun emerged. The timing could not have been better, for I was just about to attempt what would be final significant challenge of stage one - a crossing of the 150 metre wide Davey River.

The waters of the Davey are both very cold and deep and hypothermia was a distinct possibility. However, in planning the trip I decided against carrying a packraft or wetsuit, and instead opted to negotiate this and other lengthy crossings on my inflatable sleeping mat. With my backpack floating behind tied off with a two metre piece of guyline, the system worked like a dream. Nonetheless, I was more than a little happy when I eventually reached the other side of the channel!

Almost two days after the crossing I made it to Scotts Peak Dam, the finishing point of the West Coast stage.

Before beginning the second part of my trip, I needed to pickup some supplies in the tiny town of Maydena, population 245. In order to do so I would have to hitchhike there and back. Which begged the question - would anyone give me a ride looking like this?

No, Sir, I wasn’t mauled by a Bengal Tiger. I just finished hiking down Tasmania’s west coast

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on a daily basis, it may be best to look elsewhere. In the Arthurs, one kilometre per hour is usually considered to be very speedy progress!

One of the highlights of the second stage was ascending Federation Peak. While this is a holy grail of sorts for many Australian bushwalkers, more than half that attempt to summit are turned back due to foul weather.

Fortunately, on Day 22 the conditions were relatively fine and I managed to make a successful climb to the top. I took the direct ascent route; not technically difficult, but extremely exposed. How exposed? We’re talking six hundred metres pretty much straight down to Lake Geeves; definitely not for those with a fear of heights!

Upon reaching the summit I broke out into a huge smile and let out an ebullient exclamation. If memory serves, it may have been something along the lines of, “You #*!* little beauty!”

I had the mountain all to myself, and spent the next hour soaking in the amazing 360° panorama. Eventually the clouds started rolling in and I knew that it was time to head back down. Federation Peak is no cake walk in dry conditions; in wet weather it can be treacherous.

The final day and a half of the traverse was relatively uneventful. After Federation I descended from the Arthur Range via the Bechervaise Plateau and Moss Ridge. The “track” was steep and more of a hand over foot scramble than a walk. Ducking and weaving my way through fallen trees and overgrown vegetation, I eventually bottomed out at Cherry Creek.

From that point on, the terrain was relatively flat and not-so-relatively muddy. The highlight was some early morning rays piercing through the forest canopy just a few kilometres from the end.

At 11am on the twenty-fourth day of my journey, I reached the Farmhouse Creek trailhead, the finishing point of the south-west Tasmania Traverse. The sun was shining. I broke out into a wee jig. I then put down my pack and went for a ten minute swim in the creek.

Looking back at the Western Arthurs from Mt Taurus

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Approaching Federation Peak ... the tall one