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Aussie 10

menu_book picture_as_pdf bookShoshannah O'Connor Bushwalk Australia New South Wales Kosciuszko NP
Issue_25_October_2017-6

After the culmination of seven years of study (thankfully) and a bit of time on my hands in December before I began the hectic life as a graduate teacher in January I decided to hit the Snowy Mountains and tackle a few of Australia’s highest peaks. And who would have thought there would be an abundance of snow in December! It made for an adventurous three days tackling the Aussie 10 with my mum.

Near Muellers Peak on day one

Aussie 10

Shoshannah O'Connor

6 | BWA October 2017


The Snowy River and our route ahead on day one

The Aussie 10 is not an official walk as such, in the sense that there are no signs to point you in the right direction towards peak one, peak two, etc. Because of this unofficial nature, navigation skills are needed. When I was doing research in the days leading up to it there wasn’t a lot of information online and so I printed some track notes from Aussie 10 and Wildwalks, bought a couple of maps and borrowed a compass. In hindsight, I’d recommend getting a GPS so that you can plug in peak co-ordinates and easily navigate to them. However, the map and compass should be the main way to navigate, with a GPS as backup to confirm a position or the right way to go. When every mountain looks the same or in bad weather it's somewhat challenging to decipher what’s what. Generally though, the walk follows the Main Range Track, with detours so that you can climb the 10 peaks. Of course, all of this is in Kosciuszko National Park, Australia’s not so elevated alpine region. It is a beautiful part of Australia, and if multi-day walking is not for you there is still an abundance of day walks scattered throughout the national park.

After driving from Brisbane and staying in Jindabyne we drove to Charlotte Pass to begin the three day walk. Walking down to the Snowy River from Charlotte Pass meant that the final day would be mainly downhill from Rawson Pass and a slightly shorter distance. It was beautiful weather, barely a cloud in the sky and lots of snow drifts about made for an excellent time.

It is true that Australia is by no means an alpinist's dream, with a few peaks nothing more that big grassy hills. But it was still a spectacular sight nonetheless, with rocky outcrops, steep slopes and a handful of glacial lakes. Our first peak to tackle was Mount Twynam (pronounced like the tea Twinings I would later learn after mispronouncing it 8000 times). Twynam is 2196 metres high, and is one of the easier ones to get to. After crossing the Snowy River, and winding our way up towards the Main Range, we had views of the majestic Blue Lake and eventually reached the Twynam turn off. We dumped our packs and very gradually ascended a few kilometres to Twynam, which is easy to spot. Some of the other peaks were harder to identify, causing much confusion.

After bagging our first peak we returned to our packs then headed towards Carruthers Peak. Here we came across a couple of back-country skiers, grasping on to what little winter there was left.

We tramped along the Main Range Track, passing beside Mount Northcote to our east and spectacular views of Lake Albina and Mount Townsend to our west. By this stage though, the peaks were becoming increasingly difficult to distinguish and the wind was blowing a gale. We continued along a narrow goat track nestled into a ledge above Lake Albina.

Because of this unofficial nature, navigation skills are needed.

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2km

0

1

Aussie 10 map

Name

Altitude

Latitude

Longitude

Mount Kosciuszko

2228

-36.4560

148.2635

Mount Townsend

2209

-36.4229

148.2587

Mount Twynam

2195

-36.3934

148.3148

Rams Head

2190

-36.4919

148.2595

Rams Head North

2177

-36.4826

148.2700

(Etheridge Ridge)

2180

-36.4583

148.2725

Alice Rawson Peak

2160

-36.4160

148.2631

Abbott Peak

2145

-36.4284

148.2524

Byatts Camp

2159

-36.4305

148.2475

Carruthers Peak

2145

-36.4100

148.2904

(Mt Dubious)

2136

-36.3914

148.3002

Mt Northcote

2131

-36.4299

148.2789

Charlotte Pass

1760

-36.4321

148.3284

8 | BWA October 2017


... the valley was one of the best places I’ve ever camped.

Camping in Wilkinsons Valley with Abbott Peak behind us

We eventually realised that we were passing Mount Northcote and that we should probably climb up it as it too is one of the highest peaks. It’s really nothing more than a big grassy hill though and it didn’t take us long to reach peak number three.

After numero tres our energy was starting to dwindle so we quickly continued on the Main Range Track then ducked into Wilkinsons Valley, following advice from a couple of walkers we had seen earlier in the day. I’m glad we met them, because the valley was one of the best places I’ve ever camped. Camping alongside a snow-fed stream, surrounded by mountains and snow was remarkable. It was hard to believe we were in Australia, let alone that it was summer!

After tucking into some rehydrated risotto, feasting on some chocolate and sipping on some Baileys we enjoyed watching the sun slowly vanish behind the mountains.

The next morning we arose early, ready to tackle Mount Townsend, Alice Rawson Peak, Abbott Peak, Byatts Camp, Kosciuszko and

an unnamed peak. There was nothing like a few weetbix to get the energy levels up and then we reluctantly packed up camp to leave Wilkinsons Valley. I’d highly recommend staying there for a few nights and exploring the surrounding area each day. It is truly superb. We headed up a gully towards what I believed was Mt Townsend and Abbott Peak, that followed Wilksons Creek which involved a lot of rock hopping and scrambling through the patchy snow. Like I said earlier, my navigational skills are somewhat sketchy and even though it was Day two I still couldn’t identify Mt Kosciuszko among our surroundings. I had to stop frequently to consult the now shredded map to justify our direction. We decided that we’d just head up what appeared to be the highest mountain, and luckily for us there was a cairn on top and with much excitement, we celebrated climbing Mt Townsend, Australia’s second highest peak at 2209 metres. It was a beautiful sight, and the views on offer continued to exceed our expectations.

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Walking out of Wilkinsons Valley with the Abbott Range and Mt Townsend on the skyline, day two

Sliding down the mountain on day two

After much basking in the sun, we went north-east to Alice Rawson Peak which we quickly scrambled up, then went back around Mt Townsend to hit peaks three and four of the day (six and seven overall) Abbott Peak and Byatts Camp. We ran into a few trail runners who were doing the Aussie 10 in one day and after seeing them race down the snowy slopes, we quickly adopted their way of moving. These four peaks are really quite close together and form a rough line running towards the north-east. With map in hand, once we had identified Townsend it wasn’t too much trouble working out the others as well.

It was so much fun slipping and sliding over the snow as we made our way across the four peaks. It didn’t take us long to trade carefully tiptoeing down the snow to sliding down on our butts. I became complacent and after sliding down a short section of

... I continued sliding down some grass and got catapulted off a rock.

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Scrambling on the unnamed ninth peak east of Rawson Pass

snow, thinking I would come to a natural stop, I continued sliding down some grass and got catapulted off a rock. Mum was in hysterics after my near-death experience.

It was early afternoon when we arrived back in the valley to pick up our packs and continue towards Kosciuszko. We lingered for a while though, basking in the sun, enjoying some mi goreng and peanut butter wraps; ahh the little luxuries of a three-day walk.

It was onwards and upwards towards Kosciuszko, Australia’s highest peak, 2228 metres. Compared to the others we had climbed that day it was a gentle walk on a well-worn tourist track. The solitude of the last two days quickly dissipated though, as we encountered a number of day walkers. But it still didn’t feel too busy,

considering that over summer, about 100,000 people make the ascent. The views from the top are spectacular and although some people may say it is spoiled by the masses or too easy, I would definitely recommend it if you are only in the area for a day trip.

By this time we had now climbed eight of Australia’s highest peaks and we were feeling it. Heavy packs in tow, we pottered down Kosciuszko and with mum thinking we were done for the day I suggested we quickly head up the unnamed ninth peak which sits behind the huge toilet block at Rawson Pass. It was a rocky climb with patchy grass that occasionally would result in you falling knee deep into weird holes, but we were rewarded with stunning views of Kosciuszko and a good vantage point to suss out a spot to camp for the night.

... we were rewarded with stunning views of Kosciuszko ...

The Snowy Mountains are a truly unique and beautiful part of Australia ...

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Heading south towards Rams Head and Thredbo we pitched our tent close to Lake Cootapatamba Lookout. It was a beautiful spot. Patchy snow again surrounded us, and even though we were tired and ready to rest as soon as we got to camp, we stayed up and enjoyed the sunset over the Snowys.

Day three, and we had some 17 or so kilometres to cover. Feeling a tad ambitious we thought we’d try and knock it out by lunch time. We rose early, again letting the sun dictate our sleeping patterns. I feasted on my last unpalatable breakfast of weetbix with milk powder and sultanas, sipping on an instant coffee brew, and relished in the simple pleasures of being in the mountains. We hid our packs near what would soon become the busy Kosciuszko Track from Thredbo. We headed south with day packs to tackle the last two peaks Rams Head and North Rams Head. The instructions for this last bit were somewhat vague, however the best advice would be to head south-west (or to the right from the track), just before or after crossing the Snowy River. We ummed and ahhed about where the Snowy River actually was, (like I said navigation wasn’t my strong point…nor Mum's), but luckily we were heading in the right direction. Upon reaching the plateau, some 2100 metres above sea level North Rams Head and Rams Head become quite obvious. In particular, North Rams Head is a unique arrangement of incredibly large and strangely weathered boulders that juts out from the surrounding landscape. It probably requires the most scrambling to summit out of the Aussie 10, and with weary legs and a fear of heights (mum) we made it to the top of our tenth peak.

We continued, making our way to the eleventh and final peak of our trip. Why 11? You might wonder. Well after doing a lot of research in the weeks leading up to the trip, there seemed to be some controversy as to what peaks were the actual 10 highest. Who would have thought that with modern technology that this would be up for debate,

but I suppose we do live in Australia. The unknown peak near Kosciuszko appeared on a number of lists, and thus leaving it out wasn’t an option. Rams Head was the final peak we would climb on the aptly named Aussie 11.

Unlike its northern counterpart, Rams Head is only a climb up a grassy slope. This is much easier than hopping and scrambling over boulders, and it's a nice relief for those who didn’t like heights.

It was a great feeling to climb the Aussie 10. We covered some 50 kilometres and 2500 metres of elevation gain in three days, and our legs were definitely feeling it. As we wandered back to our packs from Rams Head, and walked about 9 kilometres to our car at Charlotte Pass, this time via the Kosciuszko summit track, I couldn’t help but reflect on the last three days. The Snowy Mountains are a truly unique and beautiful part of Australia, generally renowned as a place to hit the slopes in winter. But now, I suggest visiting the Snowy Mountains in summer, where the stunning landscape reveals itself without snow and offers a different kind of wonderland to explore.

... I suggest visiting the Snowy Mountains in summer, where the stunning landscape reveals itself without snow ...

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Sunrise on the final morningShoshannah O'Connor

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