Show all
Browse by Editions Authors Topics Locations

Storming The Torrs

menu_book picture_as_pdf bookIan Smith Bushwalk Europe Great Britain
BWA_April_2024-44

Storming The Torrs

Text and photosIan Smith

Devon coastline below Ilfracombe

The 3.2 kilometre long Ilfracombe Torrs Walk in United Kingdom.

44 | Bushwalk April 2024


Our legs ached and we’d only walked just over a kilometre. It was a legacy of wandering around London for days. Still, the scenery was distractingly taking the pain away. It seems it doesn’t matter where you look in Ilfracombe, there’s beauty or stunning scenery to behold. We were more on the stunning scenery route today, zig-zagging up the side of a cliff with the sea, shrouded in thin misty cloud, splashing happily on the jagged rock formations far below. The wind was slowly increasing, to the point where it was cold on the exposed parts, but it was shifting the mist.

We’d first walked through the town and then up a sharp hill where our car was parked. Ilfracombe must be one of the worst places in England to find a legal parking spot, and woe betide you if you are errant, because every time you go for a walk you’ll see the parking police actively pursuing their task. I wondered in silence if they were on bonuses for the number of bookings, so enthusiastic did they seem.

Back on the trail, some gulls squawked nearby and took to flight on the brisk wind. It’s a sound heard around coastal England, firmly embedded in your brain. They flew off uplifted rocks that were once caught between two converging tectonic plates, were compressed and their minerals re-crystallised and re-oriented. This resulted in the more mud-rich dull grey rocks developing the ability to easily split, which is known as slaty cleavage. Here and there, en route, barriers and bolts have been affixed to protect people from flaking shards, but you wouldn’t notice them unless you were specifically searching for them. It was nature in charge there.

Zig-zag route to the lookout

Flowers on the zig-zag route to the lookout

"

We were more on the stunning scenery route today, zig-zagging up the side of a cliff with the sea ...

45


Though mostly solid, the narrow trail was rutted occasionally, the walking wasn’t always even At times, there was a radically steep drop beside. Higher we went through the spring flowers, most of which we couldn’t name, but sea campions, scarlet pimpernels and gorse bush were three of them.

Somehow the trail didn’t seem to be overly steep to the point where you constantly stopped for breath, but when we reached the top of the tor at the viewpoint, we were happy to sit down. Here the view was expansive in all directions. It’s easy to see why people rate the Torrs as the best walk in this area of many splendid hikes. It took minutes to gather it all in, and the variety from town to farm to cliffs to the sea was splendiferous.

We tarried awhile, taking in all angles, soaking up the call of nature as the waves splashed far below. Unlike the Australian bush, there were few insects here. We figured it had to do with the cold.

On the return, we passed a few other hikers tramping up and exchanged cheery greetings, as you do on the trail in any country. I scampered down to the sea at one point to some steps set improbably in a rock wall that led to a small grey sandy section about 20 metres across. Just who would want to go there and how they justified the steps remained a mystery to us, so we headed back to Ilfracombe, totally sated, and eventually ended up at the Admiral Collingwood Hotel, arguably the busiest such establishment of its kind in this city.

It owes its name to the man who fired the first shot in the battle of Trafalgar and who took over when Nelson lay mortally wounded.

By 7 p.m. we were asleep in bed. Oh dear, what happens when you exercise!

Lorraine at the lookout over Hazel Bushes Bay

46 | Bushwalk April 2024


Signs at the start of the path

Real estate with a view

Excursion to the rocks below the lookout

47