Text and photosIan Smith

Barafundle Beach

It came from research and a tip-off.

36 | Bushwalk June 2024

There was a plan to visit Bosherston Lily Ponds, but our host had advised us to do Stackpole as well. We had no idea what that was except cliffs were involved, but we went anyway.

The road in was mentioned with a shake of the head, so we suspected another laneway. We were right, we just didn’t figure how bad a one-lane road could get with so much traffic on a long weekend. It was a nightmare. How many times we were brushing the foliage on the side of the road, we lost count. Some drivers were considerate, a couple were reckless, and that made it all the more scary. Needless to say, the carpark was overfull as well, but we parked off-piste, grabbed a map and were on our way. Initially we headed up through a lovely wooded path with exposed tree roots designed to keep you on your toes, literally.

Then came a right-hand turn, following the coastal direction until we reached a charmer of a beach called Barafundle Bay, where

others were already frolicking… or not. The narrow stepped path was a bit challenging with dogs vying for the same space, echoing the Brits’ seeming predilection for taking their dogs everywhere.

I pointed out to Lorraine the trail that we were aiming for at the far side of the beach. It was not a happy face I saw in return as our legs continually complained, but the people down there were obviously enjoying themselves. We did make it however, and then it was a bit of a clamber up a slope. The lady at the parking ticket office had warned me, and I chose not to tell Lorraine, but after the 20 or so initial ancient steps, it was not really that hard, and the woods were charming. It turned out the whole area is a part of a 3,000 acre 5 square mile Grade One National Trust estate with wonderfully varied scenery.

Cresting the rise, the whole vast flat headland opened up to flat sheep grazing country. Apart from a partly worn track, it was mostly soft grass and the sky was our friend as we

Where to now

Barafundle Beach

37

traipsed across to the far side, discussing directions along the way. Signs were significant by their absence, but the lady at the kiosk had given me clear directions and, when we reached the southern side, it turned out she was smack on the money.

The ragged cliffs drop away and there were a couple of remnant stacks made all the more photogenic by the rocks shed over the millennia at the base and the sea lapping on the walls. The sandstone formations date back 400 million years whereas the limestone segments are only 40 million.

The updraft caressed our faces as the sheep nearby looked on, obviously somewhat humanized over the years by the number of harmless humans walking by.

The required number of shots were clicked off, but the scene was a bit mesmerizing, and we tarried a short while longer. On the way back we discovered an even more direct route and, somehow, it all seems a bit easier when you’re returning on the same path.

We moved along a little bit closer to the sea across Barafundle this time, the harder wet sand making the steps easier to take. We were constantly bemused by the fact that the dogs have so much freedom here, obviously relishing the fact that they can run in any direction unrestrained.

The last climb past the stone wall of unknown origin was complete and we traversed to Stackpole Quay, a strange bit of significant stonework designed to allow access to, one suspects, rescue craft. Then it was past the lone shop and jump in the car to brave, yet again, the horrors of the way-too-narrow access road. It was the best I’ve ever driven on the way out; again, most drivers were careful and did the right thing, except for a couple of large 4WDs who seemed to believe the access was made only for them, and I was forced into brushing the hedge and cursing somewhat.

Still, I couldn’t help but think that, when we returned to base, it had all been worth it.

Looking east across Stackpole Quay

38 | Bushwalk June 2024